Official Nexa 2020mm F8F Bearcat (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

[Corsair nut]

No nose weight required with a evolution 7 77 lolol. Mine did fly with a dl50 and 1.5lbs of lead. Was a rocket ship. But performs about the same on the 77. Guys have used the fg60 too

[Joehockey]

Yowzie that is some heavy medal engine lol !
Now as Monty Python would say “ now for something completely different” .
Ok good news for me and the Epower gang !
So with a few quick cuts, the 12s lipos 2x6 5000 packs will easily fit inside the existing stock engine stand off !
Then with the DLE standoffs 2.7” aprox, the Rimfire 50 c motor should sit perfectly to the edge of the cowl.
In theory with a few measurements it appears all the functional weight can be on the nose.
The design is very well thought out and for you builders in the crowd, turning the lipos vertical will be an easy mod.
I plan on making an inconspicuous hatch, that includes a dowl and HD magnets that will allow easy access to the lipos.
I also plan on a Daves RC remote start for epower planes !

Ok so based on the DLE 50 (with ignition + muffler ) that is aprox 3lbs + 1.5 pounds of dead weight as a the Target to beat with functional weight.

[Joehockey]

More research , the typical HV ESC + the Rim Fire 50 CC + 2 Graphene lipos ( hobby king ) is 6.81lbs on the nose !
Clearly this e-conversion should easily work with 100% functional weight !
Now my plan will be to test the CG with the lipos inside the fuse moved all the way to the front .
If this method does not work I will follow options two and that is to turn the lipos upright !

I discovered another option this morning when studying the fuselage for the lipos.
Again , these options will not lake place until I check the CG with model virtually assembled in the normal configuration with the lipos installed laterally ( front to back ) against the firewall.
If the plane balances without the addition of 6oz or more of added ballast, I am good to go, if not I plan on the following mods in this order.
1) use a dremel tool and through the top opening of the black motor mount ( remember I said through ( do not cut ) you cut the base inside the fuselage that butts up against the firewall.

In essence its the middle panel, there are 3, a top panel to the motor mount, a middle inside fuse and a bottom. You want to cut a rectangle shape out of the middle of the assembly.

A simple carbon bit on a dremel tool will make this precision cut as easy as cutting butter. Make sure you get a carbon cutting bit and if you have not used one, test it on wood so you know its cutting properties.

By removing this middle panel (I am making an assumption) at this time but I feel that you will be able too install the two lipos from inside the fuselage without cutting the cowl !!!

Again I will test this as soon as I get to this portion of the build. The fuselage is so spacious that my assumption for this easy mod should work.
I will obviously reinforce other areas of the motor box for the parts removed.

[Joehockey]

Ok so I am working on my Zero but my Bearcat is the next plane on the table. Tonight while working on the Zero I decided to test my Idea of 2x6 cells on the nose.
First I cut the center plate out and its was virtually not very supportive. Then I removed the inside top plate about 3/4”.
These modifications will easily allow two very large 6 cell 5000 packs to slide in from the inside of the fuselage. This is great news so the cowl can stay untouched and without the need for a magnetic hatch.
My process in these type of modifications is to “ remove - rebuild -reinforce “ better then the original design.
Both packs can easily be connected inside the fuselage and have the room to allow the motor screw bolts to sit inside the firewall, buffered and separate from the Lipos
I have also added /tested rivets that I will be using on the cowl and canopy area !

[radfordc]

Also please take note , on the original Bearcat all of the servos mounts in the wing must must must be reinforced !
The original test model failed in this area , fatal crash and replaced by the original distributor -Legends Models !
Its a basic fix , no big deal just reinforce the area.

In addition ,on the original retracts the electrical unit is very sturdy but the stock pins are not !
Again video shown on the maiden of how easily the pin can bend. Also an easy fix, remove the pin and replace with a HD style pin or drill bit

I had to do both of these fixes. For the servos I designed and 3d printed plastic servo mounts that screw into place.

Another item of concern are the plastic control horns in the kit. I had one break in flight and the resulting tail flutter nearly ripped the tail off. I switched to steel horns but any quality horns should work.

[Joehockey]

What is that you say “ your selling those servo mounts ?” Yes I will buy some lol !! Seriously if your selling them and you feel they are up to task I would be interested !
Rad , when I look at your tail area I wonder if it was the control horn or a crack in the rear fuse above the stab ! Mine shipped with a crack above the stab a the tail cone area.
I am on hold with my Bearcat while I wait for the DLE 55 mounts, hoping they work as planned for my 50 CC Rimfire !
The stand offs should provide just the right amount of distance to clear the cowl .

I forgot to report back on the rivets I have been using on my Zero and will be using on the Bearcat !
These super easy peel and stick offerings come from Master Model builder Chad Veich
I am posting his link so you can see the product first hand.
I love how easy they work and the fact that you receive a variety of rivets common on most airplanes !
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...5K624sBsROnoyh


I know the guys from Motion are on their game and really study the planes they sell . I hope they will take a look at my Bearcat, comments and your comments Rad. You can see the lack of any glue leading up to the firewall, even CA stains are not visible. I will be really hitting the frame with CA beyond the CG and epoxy with fiberglass powder ahead of the CG.

Please remember guys my Bearcat was not purchased from Motion RC, so i have zero issues with their great customer service and everything I have purchased from Motion and the QC controls they have in place.
The purpose of my comments and I am sure Redford is to provide a heads up of some of the inherent small issues easily fixed on a model of this size.

[radfordc]

Here is my ad for the servo mounts on RC Groups.... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...d-Servo-Mounts

Let me know what you need and I will try to accommodate.

Charlie

[radfordc]

Rad , when I look at your tail area I wonder if it was the control horn or a crack in the rear fuse above the stab ! Mine shipped with a crack above the stab a the tail cone area.

Perhaps so. But, I found the plastic horns to be very brittle. Probably a good idea to use something of better quality. I used steel horns purchased from Hobbyking.

[radfordc]

Thanks Joe. I noticed EME has a 35cc engine with electric start. Between the starter and starter battery that might be enough weight. Also electric start adds a cool factor. I don't know much about EME engines though, but I'm willing to bet electric start is problematic.

Yeah, I did have problems with my EME 55 with elec start. The starter motor engages a large gear to spin the engine over. After five successful starts the large gear stripped several teeth and wouldn't work anymore. It seemed the engine kicked back and stripped the teeth. I contacted Mile High and they sent me another gear as a replacement. Again, five starts and the second gear stripped, too. These gears cost $50 each and I didn't want to keep replacing them so my starter is sitting in a box on the shelf. Some people have reported long term success with the starters. They are neat as heck when they work.

[Joehockey]

Thanks Charlie, I will secure my servo specs and place an order .
thanks for your service

[OV10]

Yowzie that is some heavy medal engine lol !
Now as Monty Python would say “ now for something completely different” .
Ok good news for me and the Epower gang !
So with a few quick cuts, the 12s lipos 2x6 5000 packs will easily fit inside the existing stock engine stand off !
Then with the DLE standoffs 2.7” aprox, the Rimfire 50 c motor should sit perfectly to the edge of the cowl.
In theory with a few measurements it appears all the functional weight can be on the nose.
The design is very well thought out and for you builders in the crowd, turning the lipos vertical will be an easy mod.
I plan on making an inconspicuous hatch, that includes a dowl and HD magnets that will allow easy access to the lipos.
I also plan on a Daves RC remote start for epower planes !

Ok so based on the DLE 50 (with ignition + muffler ) that is aprox 3lbs + 1.5 pounds of dead weight as a the Target to beat with functional weight.

Joehockey
Hello Joe,
Went and scoured through the Daves RC site and could not find anything resembling what you mentioned.
Is this a device that electrically arms the aircraft versus the mechanical arming harness/plug
Could you provide a link please

Best regards,

[Joehockey]

Hey Charlie
it’s Lou (LDM) from RCG .
you can see my actual installation on RCG giant electric planes in RCG .
i use Joe hockey name as that is my Rc YouTube name

[OV10]

Hey Charlie
it’s Lou (LDM) from RCG .
you can see my actual installation on RCG giant electric planes in RCG .
i use Joe hockey name as that is my Rc YouTube name

Thanx for the info Lou. If you had used the same avatar here on the Squawk as you have on RCG, probably would have guessed it was you.

[Joehockey]

If for some reason Dave is not responsive, just give him a call , he is a great guy, small business and really cares about the hobby ! I have not spoken to hm since the start of the pandemic lockdown so hopefully he is ok !
Charlie as you know my canopy on my Zero is powered and slides open and closed. I have my SafeStart hidden inside the cockpit on the right side.
My Zero has two large battery’s to power the onboard high torque servos and one for the retracts. This allows me to switch on the power, open the canopy and when my lipos are ready and connected, I hit the Safe Start button and the motor is now live !
Its a very safe method of arming a large motor.
We have all seen the other systems where you have to have 4 arms , connect the lipos, hold down a switch ect.
I am using simple Xt90 anti spark series connectors, then the safe start! Makes for stress free arming !

[Robert Belluomini]

Glad I found this thread. I have been sitting on my VQ Bearcat for some time now. Getting ready to order the Rimfire 50. Following your lead Joehockey!!
I also bought the sierra wheels when I ordered my Cat!

[Joehockey]

Hi Robert
i am trying to fly as much as possible for the summer so my progress will be slow. I am very encourage that I was able to get my lipos on the nose with out cutting the cowl. This will be one of the easiest epowered mods that I have ever made.
I am looking forward to this build.
Thanks
Lou

[Robert Belluomini]

Took my wings out of the bubble wrap this morning I’m not sure if it’s an imperfection or their attempt at creating a weathering pattern around the rivet detail that is printed I should’ve taken a picture but if it’s on your wing it’s pretty obvious

[dinobino01]

hi i had the same question about the panel lines on the wings i was sure that the lines had gotten messed up at the factory i contacted motion and they informed that after looking at the rest of the bearcats in stock all had the weird pattern on the panel lines they also told me that the stock photos show these panel lines and when you look at them under full magnification they are blurry so we will just have to deal with it

[Joehockey]

My model is from VQ not sure if these pics help .

[Robert Belluomini]

Yes, mine has the that same pattern on those panel lines. I guess thats their attempt at weathering. A bit of airbrush work will work well there.

On another note, I just ordered a set of Electron Er30 retracts with controller.
These are absolutely the best electric retracts made today. I’ll use 1/2” Robart struts and the Sierra wheels to complete my gear system.

https://www.electron-retracts.com/er-30evo/