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Official Nexa 2020mm F8F Bearcat (Balsa ARF) Discussion Thread

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  • Ok so I’m working on the new landing gear doors when I noticed that the gear had a slight toe outward. If anything I would prefer a slight toe inward.
    So I removed the strut to find that the flat area on the strut pin was re ground down not perpendicular to the frame of the retract. Looking at it closer must have been a poor off the cuff fix to adapt the pin to the strut. Only one side of the pin was reworked not both. So out came the dremmel tool to fix that.
    I realize ARFs like these need a little tweaking boy I would much rather I do it myself from the start correctly rather than have to redo substandard workmanship and pay more for it

    rant over

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    • Originally posted by Thinset View Post
      Was thinking about doing a revised build on this thread if you guys are interested. If not I won’t waste your time or mine.
      Im planning on milking this thing out all winter long to go through everything.
      Just did some basic shock test for the canopy and everything came loose. No joke..... pilot, chair and seat frame no glue or very little. 2 screws in the back of pilot to hold on place.
      That said i have to go through this entire airframe because I’m not satisfied that it’s safe to fly.
      My thought was to strip off all the covering and reglue all joints. Then recover with SIG Koverall and paint or cover with film that easy to fix. Koverall not so much.
      Just remembering paying that much for a Jet Teng composite viper jet frame that was top notch only 4 yrs ago.
      Oh yea got the Ums5-55 and it looks like a work of art.
      But in reality it’s only an expensive paper weight till I can test it out an give an honest opinion on its performance.

      I'm really curious what you think of that UMS5-55. Can't wait to get your report after getting it running.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by 406PIlot View Post


        I'm really curious what you think of that UMS5-55. Can't wait to get your report after getting it running.
        I’m sure it will run fine and sound awesome.
        What the performance will be attached to a 20 # plane is another story. More than likely won’t know until spring.

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        • The gear doors are really challenging to fabricate
          The main gear door came out well and strong using 3/32 balsa wood and then glassed.
          however the inner gear doors require ALOT more attention.
          Getting the wing curve and factoring in wing dihedral to make things geometrically correct is difficult but doable.
          Plan on at least 30 hrs per wing from start to finish including paint.
          Will post more pics as the build progresses
          Attached Files

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          • Nice work , I am just finishing my CMP Zero 80” bash and then getting to the Bearcat. I will be modding my Bearcat and full paint rework. My pilot is also floating lol, so lots of work ahead.
            Attached Files

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            • Originally posted by Joehockey View Post
              Nice work , I am just finishing my CMP Zero 80” bash and then getting to the Bearcat. I will be modding my Bearcat and full paint rework. My pilot is also floating lol, so lots of work ahead.
              Looks good
              what are you powering the zero with?
              I haven’t even ordered servos or a receiver yet. I’m gonna take my time and drag this build all winter long. Also considering nav lights in wing tips but will see.

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              • Thanks Thinset , I have the model on a Rimfire 50 cc on 2 x6 cell 5000 Graphenes. Its been a major bash that I started last year and stop during the flying season.
                I plane on the same power system for the Bearcat.
                I did all the panel lines, rivits, interior, powered canopy, retracts, too much to mention in one thread. The Cowl had 4 holes in it from the G62, had to repair the holes.
                I am excited about your Bash on the Bearcat, would love to see how far you take the model. I have been rude with my posting in the Bearcat thread, so I will no longer post the Zero updates. If you want to see how it started I have a thread on RCG Giant Electric .

                I am excited to start on the Bearcat.
                Attached Files

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                • Wow
                  you got some hours in that project.
                  Love the detail.
                  I don’t plan on going quite that far.... at least before I have a couple of flights on first just to be sure.

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                  • Thanks , I am adding the rust now and then final CG check.
                    In relevance to the Bearcat, it seems others in this thread were able to achieve the CG easily with 2x6 cells in the horizontal position.
                    My plan ( already started ) is to have the 2x6 cells vertical in the original motor box and accessible from the main fuselage cabin. I have already tested the concept and it works.’ IN reality I did I the same thing with the Zero, both 6S packs are vertical in a make-shift battery box behind the motor.
                    This original model was designed with 3 servos in the tail, that alone = the need for nose weight.

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                    • Moving along with bearcat mods. Found the no.1 cylinder valve covers contacted the cowel just a bit so i cut in a scoop like the Reno version to relieve the clearance. Going to paint it to.orrpw, will take some photos.

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                      • Hmm.. I didn’t think that was an issue with the FG 60?

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                        • The FG 60 radial will fit in the cowl with no need for clearance holes....at least mine does.

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                          • Click image for larger version

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                            Some pics of engine install

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                            • Hello to all the Bearcat builders, this has been the absolute worst ARF I’ve ever purchased. I purchased my plane in October and am still working it. I wanted to share one of the mods I did to the rear tail wheel assy. As you all (Bearcat buyers) know, the tail wheel is only on a 3mm axle. The plastic mount and control arm on mine, came stripped out of the box. I decided not to ask MRC to replace it, because I already thought it CRAP! So here’s a couple pics of what I did. By the way, I also replaced the way the rudder is controlled. Way to much play in the OEM setup. So I cut the “L” off the down rod, soldered on a crevice and attached that to the servo rod. Nice and tight with ZERO PLAY.

                              FYI: I to, am making my own gear doors. The ones that came, were warped in many directions except the ones that mattered. I took the wood backing and started from there, and am about to glassed them. Also had to remove material from the gear wells, the tires were way out into the slipstream.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Jetman64 View Post
                                Hello to all the Bearcat builders, this has been the absolute worst ARF I’ve ever purchased.
                                Yep, It's got some issues. You forgot to mention the crappy plastic control horns that break in normal flight.

                                The good news is that the plane is a magnificent flyer and you should enjoy it for a long while.

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                                • I have been working on mine as as well .
                                  So far upgraded all the hardware with the exception of the 2-56 rods, I hope that is not a mistake lol . I added all new Dubro HD connections, I mixed a blend of fiberglass powder and Tight Bond yellow glue went over all visible joints.

                                  My pilot was loose so once the canopy came off I decided I would add one fun scale details so I added a new tub and simple mods.
                                  I also added a full body pilot from Warbird pilots .com.
                                  I was able to use the stock tail wheel by simply making the mods that others have with a V-shaped wood block, then create a channel for the tail wheel rod, then lock in the rod with an added piece of wood. This creates a rod solid rudder function with no concerns.

                                  My wing servo mounts were all reinforced with FlitSkin and then I added ply wood supports cut on angle to hold the original servo mounts to the base.

                                  The only area of confusion for me was my elevator servos , following the plans exactly my servos were operating in the opposite direction.
                                  I look at the TX, the Y extension , all correct , not sure what is wrong but I fixed by moving the servos arms and realigning the supporting pushrod tubes.

                                  I waiting for the sequencer to test the internal door with the retracts but progressively moving along.

                                  I purchased after market Rustolium spray primer designed for special adhesion as I plan on a total makeover of the model.
                                  I am going to add simple panel lines and rivets, hatches and panels where appropriate.
                                  Attached Files

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                                  • Well after the entire thread I decided to go back and check something on my rudder. I did not like the insertion of the control rod into the rudder.
                                    Without power to the servos I have 1/2 of play in my rudder ( bad ) surly I will get flutter. I was trying to figure out " how did I miss that " . Well, when under servo power and fully extended left or right, i have zero play in the rudder, but when at neutral -center line flying I have a 1/2 of play and I know the rudder will move with normal wind over the rudder.
                                    So back to the drawing board for me, its non-flyable under the current conditions.

                                    So like Jetman, played with the setup for two hours yesterday and I dont have play but now my servo will not return to center because I my ply supports that remove the play are so tight that they impact the servos ability to return to center. What a PITA and yes I agree its a frustrating model. I have been building kits for years and I think I prefer to build a kit then work for two hours on crap !

                                    Then when I went to trial fit the canopy , the plastic screws are not aligned lol, so more mods to realign the screws.

                                    Jetman, I am following your tail mods, but I don’t follow how you attached the servo controls to the rudder ? Can you elaborate please ?

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                                    • I am in agreement with you guys as far as build quality but I have to say that I am rather enjoying the challenges that this bird seems unintentionally offer.
                                      they did change the control horn hardware to hanger 9 and I l already had some of these laying around to test and the held up pretty good. I basically tried to break them but just bent instead.
                                      Pushrod I used factory for rudder and elevator because there pretty stout at 2.5 mm heavier than 4-40 you just need the right fittings. Wings 4-40 rod with safety clevis from Dubro.

                                      As far as the rudder control there aren’t many options because of elevator interaction so I simply took a metric brass tube I had laying around ..... 2.5 mm I’d and inserted that into the rudder and epoxied it in place. Perfect fit for the rudder torque rod no slop. Glue in the hinges but not the torque rod as to allow for slide movement.
                                      End up with a little but not much flex.... not to concerned.
                                      I think my biggest hurdle was the freakin cowl getting everything centered and drilled. Still not done.

                                      Still workin on gear doors and covers just have to paint with matching latex. There primed so will see how it goes.
                                      Also the choke control will be interesting

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                                      • A couple pics of the 5-55
                                        Attached Files

                                        Comment


                                        • FYI
                                          Most of the bad glue joints on this build I was able to break by hand including the servo wing blocks all of them, the formers to the left and right of the firewall, all mid fuse formers joints and some wing areas around the landing gear all now reinforced. You know if things aren’t right when you hear wood cracking when you simply grab the fuse to roll it over.
                                          reglue everything

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