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DYNAM hawker tempest

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  • DYNAM hawker tempest

    can anyone tell me what the small circuit board is which was located inline between my 40amp ESC and throttle connection to my receiver please, I damaged it while sorting out a problem of my motor stuttering at low revs , turned out to be problem with the 40amp SKYLORD esc which I replaced . The unit measures 24 cm long by 9cm has3 wires connected on either end with in marked one end and out on the other, on the circuit board are 2 small black (looks like tiny integrated circuits) the wires were damaged so I soldered new ones on and now when I put the board back inline my receiver shows a green light but there is no beeping on connecting the battery or throttle response I may have overheated the board or mixed the connections up. any info would be gratefully received

  • #2
    Having checked out other vids on you tube i noticed none of my connection wires were marked as to what they were and where they went and someone who packed the model in the box may have unintentionally plugged the LED circuit board between the lead from the esc feed to the receiver which I plugged in due to my ignorance causing throttle problems and may have messed up the esc programming any ideas would be of help

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    • #3
      Pictures might help.

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      • #4
        thanks XVIPER I can see you are a person with my sense of humour I will try to post pictures but you may have guest I am a old git who struggles with how easy some of the new technology is to use . some one said it may be a UBEC although the ESC has a UBEC already fitted like the DYNAM vampire which I also have still in its box iwill get the pictures to you and it may save me buggering the vampire up as well many thanks

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        • #5
          bit out of focus ignore the connecting wires this was my attempt at repairing the original damage to shipped model

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          • #6

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            • #7
              Yeah, those pictures are pretty fuzzy. You said that little module was installed onto the BEC line that comes out of the ESC? Or did it come brand new like that? I don't think it's supposed to be there. Skylord ESCs have built-in BECs so there shouldn't be any modules grafted inline with the throttle lead, which your pictures show. It is likely some kind of light controller module. If so, these should not be wired into the throttle lead. Instead, it should be plugged into an empty receiver port. The other end should be wired to lights (or some other accessory).
              What's beyond that heat shrink on the one end of the module - what kinds of wires? Looks like 3 wires in and 3 wires out?
              That module may be damaged and hopefully, it didn't damage the ESC. Take it out and wire the ESC wires back together and give it a try. Whatever that module is supposed to run, it just won't work. You'll see very quickly what that is. Could be the lights (likely) won't turn on or the retracts (possibly) don't work. I don't think Dynam retracts require a separate driver.
              You're likely not getting any beeping because the ESC won't initialize due to the interference of the module wiring blocking the throttle signal. Hopefully, it didn't push a feedback current and blow the ESC.

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              • #8
                Thanks XVIPER I think you are spot on with your answer The module was covered with black heat shrink with no markings and already fitted in position with 3 wires in 3wires out which were damaged, and packed with the model in the box. I have looked on line for DYNAM spares and the only thing I have found which looks the same is a led unit ,so now I have removed the esc and thrown the led unit and I am waiting for the arrival of another heavy duty 40amp esc, as the over lander 40axp2 esc2"s I have, soon heat up on my bench test and are only about a 2thirds the size of the SKYLORD esc, and the extra weight helps with the tempests c/g I will test the old esc in an old trainer I have and go from there again many thanks and all the best pipyro

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                • #9
                  I hope you get 'er going. Don't worry about the lights for now. Just get the main stuff working.

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                  • #10
                    thanks XVIPER finished checking everything found the right-side gear loose soon sorted with a bit of my favourite UHU POR glue all sorted clipped a bit off each u/c door as suggested by our 2 slav brothers(to help avoid tipping up on nose when taking off on grass ) put the model on ground near my garage went to take my car out so exited the wind shifted the model took my eye off the ball, and sheared the nearside bloody mirror housing off my bloody Picasso on the bloody garage door post, took the dogs for their walk, blamed the wife for being indoors and not warning me , came home fixed the mirror housing in very cold wind. To tell the truth( no offence to more deserved or Devine persons) but I am looking forwards to hell at least it should be warm and no Dynam tempest great hearing from you ta for now

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                    • #11
                      OK tempest sorted thanks to XVIPER . I like to take 2 or 3 models when I fly so out comes the DURAFLY SEAFIRE/ pearl harbour defender what if model. No issues putting it together but as I am using my ( all i could afford at the time/ made simple for simple people such as me) FUTABA T6K transmitter and receiver, in the Tempest , I have fitted the SEAFIRE with my much tried and tested TURNIGY TGY-i6 outfit with 6 channel receiver, All of the connectors had labels on so no problems there., not for most people anyhow and it slowly dawns on me that although I have flown many RC planes over the years, since 1983 ,all have had fixed U/C , well on take off anyhow. Now I have the flaps in number5 channel and retracts in the number 6 channel. Now when you turn on these TURNIGY transmitters you have to have all your auxiliary switches in the up position and your throttle stick down so if you want your retracts to go up with the upward motion on your switch if you do not surpass the safety feature with the switches, You always turn on your transmitter first then connect the power supply in your model you can either trap the wife fingers or your model dumps itself on the deck as it happily retracts its wheels. In fixing this problem I have now somehow got the retracts working off a 3 position switch which in down position U/C fully retracted middle position U/C fully extended as well as 1/2 flaps . up position of switch full flaps down as well as full down U/C. ????????? NOW I cant get my transmitter to separate these functions on to separate switches . Got a suspicion the answer may be in the wiring harness P.S I always wanted to write a novel.

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                      • #12
                        I haven't used Futaba in over 50 years, so can't be of any help in that dept.

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