Originally posted by TiredIronGRB
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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan
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Sorry we no longer carry the 1700mm FMS prop. Not sure if Horizon carries it?My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Horizon still carries it.
Hub: https://www.horizonhobby.com/spinner...mm-fmmsi310blu
Prop Blades: https://www.horizonhobby.com/propell...f4u-fmmprop002
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Originally posted by KatManDEW View Post
Love it. Is that available for purchase?Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
And how does it fly with the 4-blade vs the stock 3-blade. Can't find Tired Iron's original post. I'm so happy with the way mine performs with the stock prop, that I'd hate to change it, unless of course if there is no loss or performance or efficiency. The 4-blade sure looks sharp though.
To me, it just looks better for a Corsair to have a 4-blade. Most people I fly with can't even remember a Corsair with a 3-blade.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostI flew mine with the stock 3-blade, then went to the FMS 1700mm 4-blade. I couldn't tell the difference in performance. However, it's not quite a "bolt on". The hex on the motor shaft is too small for the hex hole in the 4-blade hub. You need to wrap some tape around the hex on the shaft till the prop fits snugly onto it. It took about 3-4 wrap arounds with masking tape to make it work. Then cut the tape flush with the surface edge of the hex.
To me, it just looks better for a Corsair to have a 4-blade. Most people I fly with can't even remember a Corsair with a 3-blade.
(I think mine flies a little slow with the 4-blade. But I have not tried flying with the three-blade yet. I like flying "scale" and I'm really very happy with the way my Corsair performs. I have been meaning to try the 3-blade. I was thinking it might be a little faster with the 3-blade but if Viper says its about the same, well there you go.)
Here's a little bit more for Hugh... along with the FMS hub and blades, I also purchased the FMS prop adapter shaft - and found that it would not fit the FW motor - so unless you change the original motor you must use the prop shaft that the model came with... and as Viper said you have to enlarge the hex-shaped base so that the 4-blade hub fits properly. Well, what I want to add is that the FMS prop shaft is the same thread but its about 1/4" longer. When putting it all together I found that the FMS prop hub is so thick that there wasn't enough of the prop adapter sticking out for the acorn hub to screw onto. I had to remove a little from the back side of the acorn to shorten the sleeve and make it work. So it does need some fiddling but it did work out OK in the end. The slightly shorter acorn isn't noticeable.
I painted the hub and acorn silver. Here are some pics.
Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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I should qualify my last post regarding the difference in performance between 3-bl and 4-bl. I also have the FMS 1700mm Corsair, with the upgrade 360kv motor. To be quite honest, I feel the FMS is a bit faster than the FW/FL with either prop, so by comparison, it just "seemed" like the FW/FL was the same with either prop. I don't know if it's because the FMS is a bit bigger and creates more presence in the air. It's heavier than the FW and when it's coming at you (whistling the whole time), it feels like it's coming to kill you a bit faster.
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Long time between flights? Yeah I know, but sometimes life just gets in the way. Last time I flew her she was a little tail heavy, even with the 5000 mah 6 cell all the way forward, so I added a little nose weight and today finally got to fly her again, was a little windy and from the south{so not my preferred runway, we get some funny wind there due to water tanks to my left} Hopefully get more flights on her card soon. Cheers and good winds.
Long time between flights? Yeah I know, but sometimes life just gets in the way. Last time I flew her she was a little tail heavy, even with the 5000 mah 6 c...
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Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View PostHorizon still carries it.
Hub: https://www.horizonhobby.com/spinner...mm-fmmsi310blu
Prop Blades: https://www.horizonhobby.com/propell...f4u-fmmprop002
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Originally posted by KatManDEW View PostI don't see the piece of clear tape for opening the hatch in anyone's photos. Did you remove it,and if so what method are you using to open the hatch?
Edit: it looks like it was Mr. Smoothie who had the idea. Please correct me if I’m wrong don’t want to take credit away from anyone. I searched photos only and his was the first I had seen. Here are some photos of the post and the mechanism.
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Originally posted by Md_cobra View Post
People are making a fake fuel filler cap that can be pulled up. Cool idea. Look for the pics of the red caps in the big circle on the hatch.
Edit: it looks like it was Mr. Smoothie who had the idea. Please correct me if I’m wrong don’t want to take credit away from anyone. I searched photos only and his was the first I had seen.
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Originally posted by Hiflyer View PostTim K nice work! I to am doing the tri color version. I got the Callie graphics for “Marines Dream”. I’m still working on the weathering and then will do the cockpit. By the was, the easiest way to remove the canopy without damage is to squirt a little lighter fluid (naphtha) around the edge and wait about 30 seconds. It softens the glue for easy removal and does not damage either the plastic or the paint.
Beautiful paint scheme on your Corsair!
First off, thank you for the technique in removing the canopy using naptha. I was wondering how to perform that procedure as I am wanting to use my Prusa Mk3s printer to add instrument panels, etc.
Secondly, I have the birdcage and bubble top Corsairs. The bubble top is still in the box and I would also like to repaint it in the Tri-color scheme that you are doing. I've been thinking about the colors and was wondering if you would have the paint codes/numbers (Home Depot/Lowes, etc.) for the 3 colors that you are using. I'm thinking possibly a Jolly Roger paint scheme right now.
Anyway, double thanks for anything that you can provide...thanks again for the canopy removal technique.
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Originally posted by KatManDEW View PostMy 3D cockpit parts don't to fit well.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by Elbee View Post
KMD, Which STL files are you using? Check the MotionRC website for the Corsair, then 'click' on the Support page. There should be an updated set of STL files with cut down versions of all the 3DPUP parts that required a mend. If those are incorrect, please inform me via PM. Best, LB
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Just purchased and detailed my first flight line product. So far I am very impressed with its quality and craftsmanship. See know reason to change anything. Paying tribute to Major Greg Boyington, Black sheep squadron thanks to Calli graphics. Also added a personal touch to make it my own. Looking forward to the maiden very soon,. Look for my full flight review.Pacific NW Flyer :arrow:
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