Official Nexa OV-10 Bronco 1800mm ARF Discussion Thread

[sam51401]

FYI
So been looking at servo options and went to several sites that carry the Pichler ARF of this plane and see what their listing gives for servo size. I found 3.0kg/4.8v and 3.5kg/6v listed in the specs and looking at the HS-225MG, its 3.9kg/4.8v and 4.8kg/6v. I will be getting these or a similar Savox servo to install.

[MikeT]

Here's the real deal Bob ;)
The A-10 came with OPTO ESC's which means they had no internal BEC whereas the Dual 100A ESC's came prewired with a 8A UBEC into one of the EC5 connectors.
Now the ZTW UBEC that you referenced is a great choice and one that I plan to use (have about half dozen in the parts supply bin).
You have 2 choices on wiring this in. You can wire this into the two Beatle ESC's you mentioned(similar to the A-10 config) or go with a separate battery powering the ZTW, but either way the red wires of the two throttle connectors on the Beatle ESC's need to be isolated (cuts out the internal BEC). If going with a separate battery for the ZTW UBEC, I would recommend the 1300mAh 2S Admiral LiPo.
A separate power battery is a pain in the arse to incorporate into the electrical system. I prefer to wire into the flight battery and then use the Scorpion BackupGuard for those instances where pilot/mechanical errors zap the flight battery.
With the Scorpion, that is where the ZTW adjustable voltages of 5, 5.5, and 6 are perfect. I set mine usually at 5.5v when used on most systems that aren't using Hitec servos and at 6v in those that are.
The reason for the higher BEC voltage is because the Scorpion kicks on at 5v which is where the majority of BEC's on ARF planes are set which just drains the Scorpion as soon as the system is initialized.
As always, if you need some further technical insight just feel free to give me a jingle.;)

Great explanation. Although I don't find using a separate flight pack that much trouble.

Mike

[Rosytime]

The A-10 ESCs I'm using have a separate BEC already in the harness. It's rated at 5 volts and should be plenty for the servos. As I said I'm using the 225s servos and at 5volts should be more than enough torque. They also fit perfectly in the servo slot on the hatches. I looked at Savox also but there wasn't one that for perfectly as the Hi-Tech. Again, I'm using what I have on hand and some of it is overkill.

[fhhuber]

I have experienced failures of the connections between battery and ESC. Having a separate RX pack is the only defense vs this failure in flight.

We are using current equal to what is used in arc welding. a small flaw in a solder joint can lead t heating the connection,melting the solder and disconnecting the battery from the power system. You might see signs of the issue before failure or you might suddenly find you have no power and no control.

Every model using more than 4S, I use a separate RX battery, not a BEC.

[Boots Whirlygig]

:ov10Thank you guys. I think I got it. Great explanation CB, but I had to read it three times for it to click:Silly:
I ordered the Scorpion Backup from Flight Test, I’m going 4S so should be fine. I’m using FW 17g for everything but the elevator, it’s getting a Hitec https://www.motionrc.com/tools/email...ar-micro-servo
I hope to see one fly at NEFI, mine won’t be ready as I have to many other planes I’m trying to have done and times a waisting. Myopathy is a bizitch, as I know many of you will concur.

[Boots Whirlygig]

:(I’m finding that my soldering skills are not great. I even bought one of the solder gun, thinking that might help, nope. Many of my batteries have deans, even 6S packs.

[DCORSAIR]

:(I’m finding that my soldering skills are not great. I even bought one of the solder gun, thinking that might help, nope. Many of my batteries have deans, even 6S packs.

I had trouble soldering as well until I read some guys technique on youtube, forgot who he was but he was a retired military electronics guy and I remember these pointers, keep the tip clean, wipe the hot tip on a damp sponge if dirty, use good lead solder and not that lead free junk, I use 60/40 lead solder and went out and bought a cheap 60wtt and an 80wtt soldering irons, they are cheap but do the job just fine, found out it wasn't about buying a fancy soldering iron, it was more about using good solder and keeping the tip clean, I can even do an EC5 with a 40wtt iron, no failures yet and I have done a bunch of EC5,EC3, and Deans...

Hope these tips will help you as well.:Cool:

Now, back to the Bronco, anyone else have theirs built yet with pics to show us.???

[MikeT]

:(I’m finding that my soldering skills are not great. I even bought one of the solder gun, thinking that might help, nope. Many of my batteries have deans, even 6S packs.

Practice , practice and more practice. Don't overthink it. If they come out looking like this your doing it wrong.

Mike

[sam51401]

I kept thinking that something did not look correct, something missing. Anyone care to throw a hand up as to what that might be? It’s something that a 3d print can easily fill the spot and would be easy to make.
Hint, its on the booms, one per side.
Now, where or how can we get a cad or design to work from that I can print these for everyone?

[Boots Whirlygig]

I kept thinking that something did not look correct, something missing. Anyone care to throw a hand up as to what that might be? It’s something that a 3d print can easily fill the spot and would be easy to make.
Hint, its on the booms, one per side.
Now, where or how can we get a cad or design to work from that I can print these for everyone?

I noticed that as well, looked over the exploded view and they’re not pictured there so I know they’re not something they forget to put in. Weird. I’m pretty sure all Broncos had them! :Silly:

[OV10]

Well, it was never claimed to be a SuperScale :Smug:but it does look a little naked on the outboard sides of the booms not to have the turbo prop exhausts.

[Boots Whirlygig]

So who how are you all outfitting yours? Who are leaving it stock, as in flying her as she comes. If you don’t use the retracts that we’re waiting for, what units are you going to use!? I think a model of this cost point needs a lot of discussion. I’m waiting to benefit from it!
:Cool:

[sam51401]

As for retracts, the MRC versions are copies of the elite 60-120 set. Overall dimension in height and length are same, the mounting flange and bolt pattern in WIDTH matches but the length is about 4mm longer for both. The strut pin size is same at 5mm.
For struts I have a nose gear I like to try and it’s the 90mm Yak 130 which looks closest to any thing I have seen. Just like to know what the wheel dia is. As for mains, that will be most likely stock but I have an idea on these if I can figure out the trailing leg portion.
Im going with stock scheme and just need to cover the upper wing in white monokote to match the Callie graphics for VMO-2 from Pendleton. I grew up watching them and started RC with the base club. I was 13 at the time and we flew from the west end of the active so plenty of activity.
Motors will be EMax 4030/10 and trying to match a MA set of 3 blades on 6s with 14 or 15 dia props. Dubro has three blade spinners at 2.5” but I’ll have to carve the pusher side to fit. Yes counter rotating! Thought about the FMS props and hubs also as an option but both would be standard CCW, minor issue only. The T28 props are good size but way wide to my taste but haven’t looked at any others yet.

[OV10]

I'm right there with you Sam regarding the 90mm YAK 130 nose gear. Happen to have one sitting in front of me also. ;)
I was also thinking the YAK's main gear struts would be a great fit with some tweaking, which is the reason I asked for some dims back on post#67.
That was the info I was holding back to share :P.........so if someone happens to have those mains in hand and would do some measurements to the specs posted by Stuart on post#68 it would be of a tremendous assistance.
That way I don't have to go through the bother of buy/return if it doesn't measure up.:Whew:
My plan for power as mentioned earlier in the thread is the FMS Tigercat motor 4258-460kV(this is what FMS superceded the 440kv with) and the Tigercat props which are still avail as CW/CCW.

[DCORSAIR]

I'm right there with you Sam regarding the 90mm YAK 130 nose gear. Happen to have one sitting in front of me also. ;)
I was also thinking the YAK's main gear struts would be a great fit with some tweaking, which is the reason I asked for some dims back on post#67.
That was the info I was holding back to share :P.........so if someone happens to have those mains in hand and would do some measurements to the specs posted by Stuart on post#68 it would be of a tremendous assistance.
That way I don't have to go through the bother of buy/return if it doesn't measure up.:Whew:
My plan for power as mentioned earlier in the thread is the FMS Tigercat motor 4258-460kV(this is what FMS superceded the 440kv with) and the Tigercat props which are still avail as CW/CCW.

You mean like these, I have a brand new set waiting for the day mine give out in my Yak.:)

[OV10]

You mean like these, I have a brand new set waiting for the day mine give out in my Yak.:)

DUDE....FANTASTIC and Thank You :Hug: Now to get to work and start the tape comparisons :Cool:

[DCORSAIR]

DUDE....FANTASTIC and Thank You :Hug: Now to get to work and start the tape comparisons :Cool:

Your welcome OV, sorry but I couldn't get the pics to load right, for some reason they coming out sideways, I had them so you could read the ruler better, not good at these phone pics and posting.........:Confused:

[sam51401]

Great pics DC, thanks.
So from what I can see, are these molded with a steel pin center? I believe the end of the strut that goes into the retract is bent and non-removable from the top end of the strut The lower trailing arm looks good and good size wheel can be used. Wheels are turning on converting these to bronco struts.
Sam

[DCORSAIR]

Great pics DC, thanks.
So from what I can see, are these molded with a steel pin center? I believe the end of the strut that goes into the retract is bent and non-removable from the top end of the strut The lower trailing arm looks good and good size wheel can be used. Wheels are turning on converting these to bronco struts.
Sam

Now I am not real sure how these are built because I have never taken one apart but I did hear of some guys breaking these retracts right below the ball link and the main pivot point, so there must not be any metal there, not really sure, I might take one apart to help you guys see how they are built and if you guys need anymore pics and measurements I will try to get them for you and with better pics.?

[sam51401]

DC, what is leading me to my inquiry is that in the first pic above, those open slots in the lower arm seems to indicate that a wire is placed in the mold and then it incases the wire/axle to form the lower strut I dont see similar slots in the upper portion of the other strut unless they may be on the opposite side. Maybe we can get MRC guru's to give some insight to our inquiries and offer some help. I believe these are the best bet in a working conversion for the OV-10 and with possibly some minimal work to "play" the part.
Can you give the diameter of the nose wheel please just for clarification?
Sam