Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[Hardway]

Yes, I was told by Hardway that he had simply attached a gyro once with dbl-stky on bare wood & it had become loose w/o warning. So when I added an Eagle Pro to my Spitfire, he suggested I paint it or add some type of finish to the wood for the tape to stick to beforehand. Good Tip! Best, LB

Thanks Elbee!
I usually laminate a 3mm Depron foam sheet to the plywood platform. Then clean that with alcohol and attach the double-sided tape to that base... But, if you prime and seal the wood, and it has a good smooth surface, then that should work unless your paint job lets go!!! :Angry::Silly::Thinking:

[Alpha]

That's a really good idea, Hardway!

I'm lazy, so I'd just screw a styrene plate to the wood then adhere the double-sided tape to the styrene plate after cleaning it with alcohol.

[MesRcPilot]

Mr. Hardway ,very clever advice :Don't-tell-Anyone:;)

[Hugh Wiedman]

Does anybody have the AS3X settings for the FlightLine Spitfire Mk.IX 1600mm please. I've bought the PNP version of this plane and will be fitting an AS3X receiver so if anyone has got the settings which they know work well I would appreciate your help.

I have the ar636 receiver in my Spitfire, in fact in about 20 planes. I set my 3 Flight Modes on AUX 1 and tie it to my 3 position flap switch. For general fly around, flaps up I use the following Rate Gains (Roll/Pitch/Yaw) at 40/45/50. I know that sounds high but there is no oscillation on any surface at full throttle. For Take-off flaps and Landing Flaps, I use 70/80/90. Priority at 140 to 170, as per your liking. My Dual Rates and Expos are set in the transmitter and not in the receiver (I know you're not supposed to do that, but I do and have never had a problem) as I use low/medium/high rates and this allows me to use any of those on each flap setting.

I would also suggest that you go to the System Setup on your transmitter and go to trim setup and change the Aileron and Elevator to Trim Type F-Mode. This will allow you to trim those surfaces using your regular trim switches while in flight as you change flap settings. You will definitely want the elevator that way, and it's up to you whether to also use aileron and rudder (I use all three). This will remove the need to "guess" how much extra pitch or roll is needed to keep level while on the ground through mixes or flap system settings, and having to keep landing and adjusting and taking off to see if your good.

Happy Flying, this is a sweet flying bird. I actually use the 4000mah battery instead of the 5000mah I started with cause it is a little more responsive and agile (at least I've convinced myself of that). Still get 7-8 minutes of flight time as I can back off the throttle a bit and still get great performance. I also have my CG set at 97mm instead of the recommended 90mm. I thought that was a little nose heavy and I like the landing approach better with the CG further back and it seems to glide in better still without stalling, but that's just me. I know that even at 97mm, to maintain level flight at 70% throttle, there is still about 5mm of up elevator, so in my book, that's still a little nose heavy.

Let me know how that works out for you.:Cool:

[Gary42]

Hi Hugh,

Many thanks for posting a reply.

Coincidentally it's the AR636 that I'm thinking of using so this is really helpful. You've given me some great tips and I can't wait to try them out. I'll let you know how I get on.

[Hardway]

Gary42!!! Welcome aboard!!! :Cool::Cool: Jerry

[RCAV8R]

Hi Guys...it's been a while but I wanted to share my experience of last weekend in the hope that what I have learned will perhaps help you all as well! I took my Spit out for the first flights of 2019 since last fall and dusted off the cobwebs. Things always feel somewhat "different" after so much time off and I was being conservative. On the fourth flight I was downwind to the base, dropped the gear and thought the plane was feeling sluggish. Then as I came around on final I dropped the flaps and shortly after thought maybe there was more of a headwind than I had thought because it was starting to come to a standstill. Glidepath was on target and I didn't panic. As I was over the end of the runway, about 4-5 feet off the deck, I pushed the throttle and immediately lost power. The plane immediately did a tip stall, rolled over the port wing and went straight in.

Upon later inspection it was a testament to the design that the damage was very minimal. The main force was on the tip of the spinner, with the port wing tip taking a hit and the starboard gear pulling out of the wing as a single housing. Impressive how the force on the nose went right to the X brace and absorbed almost everything, and how the gear housing pulled away without tearing up the wing.

So the takeaway (with the help of my friend, RichJ53 from this forum) is that given the colder temp that day (high 50's) and the fact that I was flying to the normal limit of my radio's timer (9 minutes on an Admiral 5000), the effect of the temp on my flight duration was not something I had factored in. The battery showed 23% when checked post mortum, but Rich's better checker said it was closer to 17%. I had grown comfortable with the notion that 20% was the minimum acceptable level, but acceptable none the less. No more! From now on, 30% is the standard! Further research with MRC revealed that the ESC/BEC is programmed for a "Soft"Cutoff", hence the gradual decrease in power, as opposed to a pulsing of the motor as a sign.

Another takeaway was that I had put in carbon fiber rods in the grooves along the battery compartment of the fuse. I did that with my A-10 because there had been discussion on the squawk about it and I thought it would be good policy with the Spit, given the narrow fuse. Looking at the minimal wrinkling, I have to believe that those rods really helped hold the fuse from cracking. Just guessing, but I think it would be a worthwhile investment for others.

So my brothers, 1) don't underestimate the effect of cold on your batteries in early spring as you get out and fly for the first time...adjust your timer accordingly, 2) if you sense a loss of power, recognize it could be a signal from the cutoff and get 'er down, and 3) consider adding carbon fiber to your fuse! Thanks guys and Tally Ho! Rob

[thisguy65]

Is any of your guys running the admiral gyro RX? if so how are you placing it in the spitfire, pictures?

[RichJ53]

So the takeaway (with the help of my friend, RichJ53 from this forum) is that given the colder temp that day (high 50's) and the fact that I was flying to the normal limit of my radio's timer (9 minutes on an Admiral 5000), the effect of the temp on my flight duration was not something I had factored in. The battery showed 23% when checked post mortum, but Rich's better checker said it was closer to 17%. I had grown comfortable with the notion that 20% was the minimum acceptable level, but acceptable none the less. No more! From now on, 30% is the standard! Further research with MRC revealed that the ESC/BEC is programmed for a "Soft"Cutoff", hence the gradual decrease in power, as opposed to a pulsing of the motor as a sign.

Another takeaway was that I had put in carbon fiber rods in the grooves along the battery compartment of the fuse. I did that with my A-10 because there had been discussion on the squawk about it and I thought it would be good policy with the Spit, given the narrow fuse. Looking at the minimal wrinkling, I have to believe that those rods really helped hold the fuse from cracking. Just guessing, but I think it would be a worthwhile investment for others.

So my brothers, 1) don't underestimate the effect of cold on your batteries in early spring as you get out and fly for the first time...adjust your timer accordingly, 2) if you sense a loss of power, recognize it could be a signal from the cutoff and get 'er down, and 3) consider adding carbon fiber to your fuse! Thanks guys and Tally Ho! Rob

Nice job on your write up... its great sharing information as we learn from our mistakes. I am so happy your plane was not to badly damaged. The only other thing to add to your assessments is make sure you keep your battery age and battery cycle information on each pack. Batteries are consumable items that lose capacity over time which will reduce your flight tines.

All the best
Rich

[Hugh Wiedman]

Coated a bunch of my planes with the gloss exterior Spar Urethane including the Spitfire. The Spitty has some good quality foam (not as smooth as the F-4 or Corsair) but went ahead and used gloss instead of satin or even semi-gloss. Glad I did, it shines so nice in the air. Here's a few pictures. BTW, after using 4 coats, the CG was not affected at all. I set my CG at 97mm instead of the recommended 90mm because I thought it was too nose heavy and for me it seems to land better and fly better at 97mm (I also use a lighter battery in the 4000mah and still get 7 or more minutes of flight). Still I have about 2mm up elevator to keep level flight so I might even move the battery back a little further (although I've tried to fly a warbird that was tail heavy and that's almost impossible, at least for me, but I don't like a nose heavy plane like a lot of other pilots) .:spitfire

[MesRcPilot]

Hi Hugh nteresting .... CoG 97mm !!! :Confused: , but with a battery of 4000 understandable that Spit will have a relatively long flight, because weight plays a role .... an easier model less consumes and flies more scales . I congrats to the cheerful Miami design.All the best
Jo.

[thisguy65]

Has anyone posted picture of their paint match numbers?

[Grover54]

You asked, and we answered!

Motion RC is proud to announce the first in a new series of FlightLineRC 1600mm single engine warbirds, a Spitfire Mk.IX! Our smaller 1200mm Spitfire surprised us by being the most requested single engine aircraft from our FlightLineRC lineup that we've been asked by customers over the past year to size up. But far more than a simply sized up 1200mm Spitfire, our all new 1600mm Spitfire was redesigned from the ground up to feature more scale elements that are appropriate for this new class size of aircraft. Offering the "big plane" presence of the 1700mm class but at the lower price point and easier transportability of the 1400mm class, we have high hopes for FlightLineRC's 1600mm Single Engine Series. There are more to come, but for now, let's take a closer look at the FlightLineRC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX, with most of these features being unique to this 1600mm version...

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U8ORvfoZp0


Scale Fidelity:
* 92% Scale Outline, 94% Scale Contours
* Scale suspension struts, pre-installed on all PNP aircraft
* Scale four spoke wheel, plastic, with brass axle shaft
* Scale four panel split flaps, plastic, with ribbing detail
* Scale canopy contours
* Cockpit floor and wall area is designed to accommodate a near-full depth cockpit tub, for you customizers/detailers out there
* Big 16" Prop
* LED wingtip lights
* Pre-installed dorsal signal light. Can be plugged into the circuit board to flash intermittently, but because the real Spitfire only used this light to flash Morse Code to communicate, I hope someone out there programs an Arduino to flash an actual Morse Code message, like "Cleared in Hot" or "I love pizza"

Durability:
* Soft tires, slightly oversized, for operation on rough surfaces
* Grass capable landing gear with thick steel pin and metal trunion
* Digital Metal Gear servos on all control surfaces
* Brass Ball Links on all control surfaces
* Nylon hinges on all control surfaces
* Plastic cowl
* Machine Screw Inserts molded into the spinner backplate for easy adjustment of the blades' tracking while mounted on the motor
* COOL: Plywood ribs and carbon spars sandwiched in a hollow chambered wing. Strong, light, rigid.

Transportability and Usability:
* Removable Wings (Wing halves are screwed together, then screwed to fuselage)
* Removable Cannon Barrels
* Removable Antenna Mast
* Removable chin scoop (the part most prone to frontal wear)
* Quick Disconnect Circuit Board
* Access holes to adjust Elevator/Rudder linkages without removing the wing
* Gyro ready plywood area near CG
* Two decal sets included:
-- MA621 DV-A, Squadron Leader Tony Gaze, 129 Squadron, 1943
-- BS393 GW-Z for Lt. Michel Boudier, 340 Squadron, 1942
* Additional sets made available by Callie Graphics, including George Beurling, Pierre Clostermann, etc.

Performance:
* 6s 4000-5000 battery
* 8-10 minutes of flight, even with heavy throttle usage
* Trainer-like handling and stability in the air (although still recommended for intermediate+ pilots due to the narrow gear stance)
* Accepts violent banking input at slow speed without a snap, very docile!
* Difficult to master an 8 point roll with that small rudder, consider it a challenge
* Scale Plus Presentation: not overly fast yet not slow
* Near unlimited vertical
* Can fly 5+ consecutive tight loops without losing steam (if you don't mind a puking pilot)

When When When How Much How Much How Much:
* Slated for production in late February, ETA is early April time frame
* Projected price is $329-$339. That's not a typo! :)

Notes:
All these photos are of the color test sample that I personally prepared for the factory. The Production version will have the complete markings/warnings/etc not shown here. Look out for Mike and Ryan's official video next month! We plan to due a very mild satin sheen. Unless people really want a matte finish?

Thanks to Pilot Evelyn for giving us a sense of scale with the FlightLineRC 1600mm Spitfire Mk.IX

I'm joining this thread a bit late but I have a power question. The FlightLine 1600mm Spit and 4-blade (16X10) prop uses the 5055 390Kv (950w) motor. This particular motor is "out of stock" but I've read this motor is really under powered anyway. A alternative motor suggested is a 5060 300Kv (1550w) or the 5055 340Kv (1200w). Are these motors too powerful to run the Spit 4-blade 16X10 props?

[Beeg]

I'm joining this thread a bit late but I have a power question. The FlightLine 1600mm Spit and 4-blade (16X10) prop uses the 5055 390Kv (950w) motor. This particular motor is "out of stock" but I've read this motor is really under powered anyway. A alternative motor suggested is a 5060 300Kv (1550w) or the 5055 340Kv (1200w). Are these motors too powerful to run the Spit 4-blade 16X10 props?

I don't know who said the stock motor wasn't adequate but that's definitely an opinion. I've been more than happy with the stock performance and this is one of the best flying airplanes MRC has ever released.

[Grover54]

I don't know who said the stock motor wasn't adequate but that's definitely an opinion. I've been more than happy with the stock performance and this is one of the best flying airplanes MRC has ever released.

Thanks Beeg - I agree, I'm sure most of the "under powered" comments on various planes / motors are opinions but my main concern (since the stock motor is not available) are these other motors too powerful for the FL 16X10 props and is there a high risk of the props blowing apart? I've posed this question to several FL product support folks with no response or they're :Thinking:so I thought I'd pose the question to actual users. Comments or thoughts?

[Beeg]

Thanks Beeg - I agree, I'm sure most of the "under powered" comments on various planes / motors are opinions but my main concern (since the stock motor is not available) are these other motors too powerful for the FL 16X10 props and is there a high risk of the props blowing apart? I've posed this question to several FL product support folks with no response or they're :Thinking:so I thought I'd pose the question to actual users. Comments or thoughts?

No surprise as Motion RC associates can only comment on stock configuration parts and setups. For liability reasons.
The 1600 spitfire is the first FL model to have a scale multi blade hub with extra metal cross for blade hub support. I have not yet heard of anyone blowing one apart yet. Do you feel like being a test pilot? ;) Would be curious to find out...

[Grover54]

Hi Guys...it's been a while but I wanted to share my experience of last weekend in the hope that what I have learned will perhaps help you all as well! I took my Spit out for the first flights of 2019 since last fall and dusted off the cobwebs. Things always feel somewhat "different" after so much time off and I was being conservative. On the fourth flight I was downwind to the base, dropped the gear and thought the plane was feeling sluggish. Then as I came around on final I dropped the flaps and shortly after thought maybe there was more of a headwind than I had thought because it was starting to come to a standstill. Glidepath was on target and I didn't panic. As I was over the end of the runway, about 4-5 feet off the deck, I pushed the throttle and immediately lost power. The plane immediately did a tip stall, rolled over the port wing and went straight in.

Upon later inspection it was a testament to the design that the damage was very minimal. The main force was on the tip of the spinner, with the port wing tip taking a hit and the starboard gear pulling out of the wing as a single housing. Impressive how the force on the nose went right to the X brace and absorbed almost everything, and how the gear housing pulled away without tearing up the wing.

So the takeaway (with the help of my friend, RichJ53 from this forum) is that given the colder temp that day (high 50's) and the fact that I was flying to the normal limit of my radio's timer (9 minutes on an Admiral 5000), the effect of the temp on my flight duration was not something I had factored in. The battery showed 23% when checked post mortum, but Rich's better checker said it was closer to 17%. I had grown comfortable with the notion that 20% was the minimum acceptable level, but acceptable none the less. No more! From now on, 30% is the standard! Further research with MRC revealed that the ESC/BEC is programmed for a "Soft"Cutoff", hence the gradual decrease in power, as opposed to a pulsing of the motor as a sign.

Another takeaway was that I had put in carbon fiber rods in the grooves along the battery compartment of the fuse. I did that with my A-10 because there had been discussion on the squawk about it and I thought it would be good policy with the Spit, given the narrow fuse. Looking at the minimal wrinkling, I have to believe that those rods really helped hold the fuse from cracking. Just guessing, but I think it would be a worthwhile investment for others.

So my brothers, 1) don't underestimate the effect of cold on your batteries in early spring as you get out and fly for the first time...adjust your timer accordingly, 2) if you sense a loss of power, recognize it could be a signal from the cutoff and get 'er down, and 3) consider adding carbon fiber to your fuse! Thanks guys and Tally Ho! Rob

RCAV8R - Sorry you experienced an incident but it sounds like it was a great save in that no trash bag was required. :Cool: This is all excellent information and well communicated and is what makes HS exceptional. You can learn the criticality of things from others. My Mentor at my club is very adamant about the 80/20 rule on batteries but I've always kept it at 70/30 only because I feel I'm still learning even after two years. The other point on temp is absolute. Here in the Northwest we fly in the 50s because it is what it is but I hold my flight times to 6 - 7 min even flying scale. Thanks for sharing!

[Grossman56]

Hey RC, good to know! I also can testify to the toughness of this plane. I have to find a source of carbon fiber rods and do the same thing. Just finished re CG-ing mine and even with the 5000 all the forward. she was just balanced. So I got the brain storm to add some weight to the front of the battery hatch so it would be slightly nose heavy with the 4500's all the way forward, then find the position of the 5000 to get the same result. This worked great as I have 3x 4500's and only 1x5000. She always seemed a little pitchy even with the 5000 all the way forward, hopefully, being a little nose heavy will alleviate that.
Meanwhile, I booked some time off work to get some flying in, of course, I'm sitting here watching the snow coming down:Angry:

Grossman56

[Hugh Wiedman]

Hey RC, good to know! I also can testify to the toughness of this plane. I have to find a source of carbon fiber rods and do the same thing. Just finished re CG-ing mine and even with the 5000 all the forward. she was just balanced. So I got the brain storm to add some weight to the front of the battery hatch so it would be slightly nose heavy with the 4500's all the way forward, then find the position of the 5000 to get the same result. This worked great as I have 3x 4500's and only 1x5000. She always seemed a little pitchy even with the 5000 all the way forward, hopefully, being a little nose heavy will alleviate that.
Meanwhile, I booked some time off work to get some flying in, of course, I'm sitting here watching the snow coming down:Angry:

Grossman56

Hey Grossman, had to add carbon rods on the sides of my battery compartment some time ago too. I noticed early on a crack stress at the back of the battery tray and was forced to fix it or trash it after just a few flights (although those flights had less than perfect landings which added to the problem). Installed them in the groove that looks like it was intended for the rods and they just forgot to install them. Since then, I have about 30 lights on it with no more issues. I also droppedd down from a 5000mah to a 4000 for lesss nose weight and still get 6 -7 minutes of flight time. I posted pictures of it about a year ago, so don't know the exact location today. You can get all sizes of carbon tubes and rods from Horizon.

With the smaller battery the plane "seems" more agile and gets better perrformance with less throttle (could just be wishful thinking though). I also moved the CG back from recommended 8mm and it seems to be more stable and lands smoother (again, maybe wishful thinking). :Silly:

[RCAV8R]

Hey RC, good to know! I also can testify to the toughness of this plane. I have to find a source of carbon fiber rods and do the same thing. Just finished re CG-ing mine and even with the 5000 all the forward. she was just balanced. So I got the brain storm to add some weight to the front of the battery hatch so it would be slightly nose heavy with the 4500's all the way forward, then find the position of the 5000 to get the same result. This worked great as I have 3x 4500's and only 1x5000. She always seemed a little pitchy even with the 5000 all the way forward, hopefully, being a little nose heavy will alleviate that.
Meanwhile, I booked some time off work to get some flying in, of course, I'm sitting here watching the snow coming down:Angry:

Grossman56

Glad to share Grossman...I used square rods, but I can't remember where I got them. You should be able to Google a source! Rob