Official Flightline RC 1300mm Focke-Wulf TA-152H Thread

[Alpha]

Hi there Husafreak,
The Ta-152 is my favorite from that generation of FlightLines, I think you'll really enjoy it. I used an Admiral 4s 2500 Pro, factory CG. Throttle management achieves 5-6 minutes depending on how and where you fly. 6-7 isn't difficult either if you're tactful.

As for the stance, you're right, we tweaked it for better ground handling at this scale. Practical but still looking convincing to most eyes.

The Ta-152 was one of those models that many people asked for as something "different". Enjoy yours!

[Husafreak]

Perfect, thanks.

[Husafreak]

Would it be possible to simply replace the Blue Box controller with a few "Y" harnesses? It just goes against the KISS principle on this model, in my eyes. Three Y's for gear , Ail, Flaps, and two extensions for the Elev, Rud. On the bigger birds and jets the BB controllers do a lot of mixing and sequencing but I doubt this one does anything but combine the wires. Is it 100% reliable? The bigger ones aren't always... That's why I am kind of leery about it.

[Husafreak]

I also took a look at the build videos. Seeing now how the prop/spinner works I am wondering what typically breaks in a prop strike? Prop, spinner, or both? It's a warbird so I'll probably have a prop strike at some point on our asphalt runway.

[Alpha]

It depends on the strike. Most often the prop blade will break first, by design. You'd have to hit it fairly hard with the motor spinning to transfer the energy to the spinner quickly and forcefully enough to break the screw holes where the prop blade meets the spinner.

I forgot to mention earlier, the Ta-152 can also be flown on a 3s battery, if you wanted more mAh.

[Husafreak]

Thanks, re prop strikes, makes sense.
I saw the 3s video too. A buddy at the field sold me his barely used 3000 and 3300 4s packs so I plan to use them for this Ta-152 and an LA-7 I got at the same time. While the Ta-152 flies well on 3s and a full throttle pass looks more correct speed I think it can actually be flown more "scale like" with 4s because after a 1/2 throttle pass you can throttle up in the climb and it will look more scale like clawing its way to altitude at a slower speed. The 3s setup relies too much on momentum. Just my 2 cents though.

[James]

Excited for this one. Just purchased one for myself. I have actually never crossed one in the wild but I loved the looks of it ever since I started working for Motion. Has a bit of an H-1 racer look to it. Might chrome it out..."need flush rivets on the fuselage! she's got to be clean Odi!"

[James]

Heading out to maiden this bad boy today. Got some 2500mAh 4S Admiral Pro's and 3000mAh 4S (regular) Admirals (weigh the same and same length). Can't wait to see how she does.

[Husafreak]

Let us know how it goes.

[Husafreak]

Maiden today, got three flights in. Built per instructions plus ground away some foam and added washers to relieve the gear until the wheels could spin freely in the wells. As delivered the gear was tight in the retracted position and would occasionally get stuck in the up position. This should be addressed by MRC. It is not really acceptable out of the box on a second production run. I used the Admiral 6 channel Rx with the gyro. Basically the plane flies great! It also looks cool and it is an unusual fighter, well done! Some thoughts.
Decals are good, mine were stick on and I oversprayed them with Testors Dullcote. Looks good. Red and Yellow tail bands will have to be painted, the decals are not good there. Paint is OK except at the hatch the green paint if flaking off like crazy. I wonder what color green that is?
Admiral RX set to gyro on/off with a two position switch as explained in their video. I ended up with very low rates, maybe 30% on elevator and rudder, 10% or close to off on the ailerons. It does not need a gyro at all but with the gyro set up correctly it is the icing on the cake. Got wing wag with more aileron rate. I initially tried to use my JR11X DSMX Tx but I could not figure out the on/off gyro mix. I finally gave up and bound my Spectrum DX18 and used the switch to gear mix exactly as described in the instructional video.
I used a GensAce 3300 4s pack I had on hand, 11.4 oz. or 335g. It balanced per the manual with the battery pretty much centered over the plywood plate. Manual CG s perfect for me. So you could go a little heavier or lighter and still be able to avoid lead. I flew for 7 minutes on the last flight and still had over 30% with a great variety of power settings. Eight may be perfect with this pack for me but seven for a fast guy on 3300 mAh. It carried the weight beautifully. Still flies light but not too floaty.
This bird flew right off the board with only a few clicks of trim. I found it easy to control on the ground, I'm not saying it looked good the first time but rather that I could steer it down the centerline with rudder and it gets airborne so quickly with anything more than half throttle that it's a no brainer. I brought the throttle up super slow. On landing it is a piece of cake with half flaps but once on the ground I needed to get the tail down and hold it there with full up, but very low rates. It kind of wants to nose over if you land on the mains and let it slow before planting the tail. I needed no flap to elevator mix with the gear down. With the gear up it could have used a touch of down elevator with flaps but I didn't bother and it was fine as long as you don't let it get too slow. I flew it quite a bit actually with the flaps half and gear up, no worries.
It is very aerobatic and smooth in flight, and it looks cool. I like really low rates but the high rates flew good too. Snaps are docile on low rates and blink your eyes quick on high rates. It needs very little rudder to KE at speed. With 4s and the stock prop speed is good, it is fast, with really good vertical. I mean it goes straight up, at speed, forever, LOL.
I could not be any happier with this warbird.

[bobtheman]

The gear on mine plane hang up but if you take them out they work in your hand ???

[bobtheman]

Has anyone come up with a practical # 1 to better see the 152 in the air? When its coming at you it disappears worst than a parten ship does.

Second any Idea's about making this ship more grass friendly?
Thanks

[Alpha]

This might help with visibility and is somewhat scale (it's a real scheme from a D.9, not a Ta152, but it's close enough-ish).

As for being more grass friendly, do you mean for takeoffs or landings? The model's dimensions are fixed so not much can be done about that, except for more power and more rudder for shorter takeoffs, and more flaps and steeper descent for shorter landings. Shorter T/O and L should reduce the strain on the undercarriage and prolong their life without killing the bird prematurely, which is what I assume you mean by "grass friendly".

[bobtheman]

Thanks..
Problem more on landing much more come in for landing it hit a little bump of slight uneven in the grass at most field and it nose over hard I thought the rudder would break.

[paladin]

Thanks..
Problem more on landing much more come in for landing it hit a little bump of slight uneven in the grass at most field and it nose over hard I thought the rudder would break.

you can schim under the aft ear of the landing gear, start with 1/8 lt ply. this will rotate the lg out of the wing slightly when clean but when deployed that rotation will push the wheels forward of where they are stock.

Joe

[bobtheman]

Thanks Joe

[Randy H]

Hello I maiden'd my FW152 today and all went well. It fly's fast and stable and looks great in the sky no mistaking the outline of the 152. I used 30% expo on all surfaces to start and also used the 4 cell admiral 2500. Had more than 5 minutes on battery with 40% reading after the flight. Need to keep the speed up when landing and I used 1/2 flaps. This is my first electric warbird and I will be getting the spitfire next. I would like to thank all of you on this forum for the information posted that really helped me with the first flight.

[Randy H]

Hello can someone let me know how many square inches the wing is for the 152. I appreciate the help on the spitfire that the was given. Which formula do you use to figure the square inches? Thx

[paladin]

I don't have this one but measure the cord at the root and the tip add them together, divide by 2 to get the mean cord (average cord). multiply the mean cord times the wing span and that is your wing area.

Joe

[walkerm45]

Has this thread ceased operation?