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Official FMS 1400mm P-51D V8 Thread

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  • RE: ALL FMS 1450mm P-51's V8 + others

    Adam, thats beautiful...I love fishing too, but I am not going with shirty ! Woohoo were baaaack... I was having HS withdrawals... Yeah I do feel very lucky with the new flying site, its just going to be a friends and family fun site.
    X tks for posting how to do the sizing, my pic was a test and when I was going to explain how I did it the site had shutdown. Look forward to seeing how this new software works... Now start posting pics and vids guys :)
    FMS: PT-17, Waco, B-25, P-40, P-47, J-3
    DF: P-51D, Spitfire, geebee, Skyraider
    Dynam: Grand Cruiser, A-10
    J-pwr P-38, FZ Beaver + too many more

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    • RE: ALL FMS 1450mm P-51's V8 + others

      Thanks fellas...I'm really proud of that bird. Nice little story too...Derik (moonbeam) got ahold of Col. Starck's family, and I got a very nice message on my voicemail from Brian Starck...Walters son...saying how proud and honored the family was that I picked Walters scheme and chose to fly his plane. I still have that message saved. What an honor and a privilege it is to be able to pay tribute to a true war hero and ace. I think of Col. Starck every time I fly her...

      Adam
      Big time propeller head
      Love flying scale and 3D
      Currently building a GP SE5A

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      • RE: ALL FMS 1450mm P-51's V8 + others

        That's awsome Adam what a honor to be able to represent a part of history in such a way.

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        • G'day gang,
          I am slowly getting toward the century mark with the Duchess Arlene.
          Both my BBD and Shangri La have the one hundred flights in their log books but DA is the only one that has managed this many without any modifications or replacement of any parts......now you all know what will happen.
          Once I have the one hundred flights, I will change to the 650 kv motor and start counting all over again.
          I was able to put two flights only on DA last Sunday as the wind was not playing the game and it was quite breezy when I arrived at the field....it was bad enough to blow our wind sock away by ten am.
          Even in the heavy conditions the model flew nicely. Two years ago I would have left her in the van.
          Regards and respect
          Daryl

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          • Woohoo, they let me back in. ;). Going out tomorrow with petie, word is there are some 190s that need shooting down. :)

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            • I just got some replacement gear doors for my Duchess Arlene. I noticed they are a white plastic with the red and yellow over the white. The original set was red plastic. Is this a more durable plastic? Wondering if there is a difference.

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              • Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
                RE: ALL FMS 1450mm P-51's V8 +

                Ahh, one of my favorite topics!
                My P51B is stock except for the pain job.* I have ball links ready to go into her, but for now, she'll stay that way.* Actually the only mod I've done to her, to both Mustangs in fact, was to change out the trunions to all metal pieces through CNP Small Parts
                **http://smallpartscnc.com/index.php?r...product_id=193
                If you haven't already got these, they are worth their weight in gold!!

                To my P51D, I've gone with the upgraded 580kv motor with a Mantis 85a ESC, changed all the links to ball links, metal trunions and*modified the cockpit to look more realistic and changed out the pilot

                She's quite the sight to see fly.
                Oh, if you're wondering, about 4 or 5 coats of Minwax. Varathane is a better way to go though.

                Grossman56

                GMan, how come all your planes never have all the dents and dings from transporting like mine do?? Is it the Minwax? I only use two usually...
                Lauren

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                • Made it in! Great to see familiar names.

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                  • Great to see the forum back up and running! Welcome Daryl!

                    Adam
                    Big time propeller head
                    Love flying scale and 3D
                    Currently building a GP SE5A

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                    • Hi Guys and Gal (Lauren) glad you all joined in. Lauren the Minwax helps tremendously but the Varathane waterbase is even better it has a UV protectant and only requires one coat where minwax can require 2-4... Not sure what has happened to all the links on first page, we are working on getting them back up. All suggested products, upgrades etc are in those links....DJ
                      FMS: PT-17, Waco, B-25, P-40, P-47, J-3
                      DF: P-51D, Spitfire, geebee, Skyraider
                      Dynam: Grand Cruiser, A-10
                      J-pwr P-38, FZ Beaver + too many more

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                      • Thanks DJ! I'll try the Varathane next time! I got a lot of rash on my planes mostly because I have a totally inappropriate car to carry this stuff in. Hyundai Genesis Coupes aren't exactly spacious. LOL!
                        Lauren

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                        • Originally posted by tdevince View Post
                          I just got some replacement gear doors for my Duchess Arlene. I noticed they are a white plastic with the red and yellow over the white. The original set was red plastic. Is this a more durable plastic? Wondering if there is a difference.

                          G'day tdevince,
                          I will stand corrected but I believe the use of white plastic and then painting it is cheaper than colouring the plastic. Also yellow paint has poor covering qualities.
                          I would think that FMS, on the white door, painted the yellow on first and then the red. It is the way I would do it and the way most painters would do the colours. Light colour then the darker. Black is always last.:D
                          Nothing more than making more money by saving a couple of cents on each door.

                          Regards and respect
                          Daryl

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                          • Hello All,

                            For those who wish to use 4S, just put the new FMS 650kV motor in. No drilling mod, or anything required, and you will get A LOT MORE BANG FOR THE BUCK! I have tried on my Red Tail. It now flies how it should have "stock".

                            Regards,

                            Airzipper
                            Regards,

                            Airzipper

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                            • Nice to hear zip! hope the 650 becomes the standard donk for all new 1400mm planes. (Imagine the zero lol).

                              Anyway - got a question for y'all. (See that? I've been polishing up on my American...). Anyway got to the field this morning with petie, low and behold my right aileron is pretty much separated from the wing, just a bit at the wingtip and the servo horn holding it on. What's the best way to go about fixing this? (All my 3D birds have hinges, I haven't ripped an aileron out on a warbird before, certainly not on a bird with this sort of hinge arrangement - I'd be fine if it was a bigger balsa lol). I'm pretty sure it's from transport, not a quality issue btw. I ran a small bit of polyurethane glue (Uhu por, awesome for foam btw, on the advice of a mate), down the join, it seems ok - but I'm not fond of landings with one aileron flapping up and down in the wind and not sure I wanna trust this bird to a bit of glue. Any other fms bird besides one of my bluenosers I probably would have flown it with the fix. (Again it feels sorta solid) but this is my petie! Can't have this one go in I'll be forced to buy another immediately. Any advice would be appreciated. :)

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                              • It's my petie! :-O

                                This was brand new, (over a year ago now), with a very sick 540kv just putting out 620 watts at max power. (Now you know why I was soo keen to go the 550 and 5s/6s). Not sure if you guys can see the vid and play it with the recent upgrade, my iPad is having trouble for some reason. But I can play it if I click on the link and go to YouTube. I'll repost it later if it's a software thingy still and you can't see it.
                                 

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                                • Originally posted by wrongroad View Post


                                  G'day tdevince,
                                  I will stand corrected but I believe the use of white plastic and then painting it is cheaper than colouring the plastic. Also yellow paint has poor covering qualities.
                                  I would think that FMS, on the white door, painted the yellow on first and then the red. It is the way I would do it and the way most painters would do the colours. Light colour then the darker. Black is always last.:D
                                  Nothing more than making more money by saving a couple of cents on each door.

                                  Regards and respect
                                  Daryl
                                  Daryl,
                                  Actually its a Red/Yellow sticker placed over the white plastic. I was hoping to hear the white plastic was more durable. The red plastic seems to damage easier, my door got snagged moving in and out of my truck. I was hoping the new plastic would hold up to hangar rash better. Although I'm not sure the white plastic would have faired much better when the idiot pilot doesn't pay attention when loading/unloading the plane.

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                                  • Originally posted by Shirty View Post
                                    Anyway - got a question for y'all. (See that? I've been polishing up on my American...). Anyway got to the field this morning with petie, low and behold my right aileron is pretty much separated from the wing, just a bit at the wingtip and the servo horn holding it on. What's the best way to go about fixing this? (All my 3D birds have hinges, I haven't ripped an aileron out on a warbird before, certainly not on a bird with this sort of hinge arrangement - I'd be fine if it was a bigger balsa lol). I'm pretty sure it's from transport, not a quality issue btw. I ran a small bit of polyurethane glue (Uhu por, awesome for foam btw, on the advice of a mate), down the join, it seems ok - but I'm not fond of landings with one aileron flapping up and down in the wind and not sure I wanna trust this bird to a bit of glue. Any other fms bird besides one of my bluenosers I probably would have flown it with the fix. (Again it feels sorta solid) but this is my petie! Can't have this one go in I'll be forced to buy another immediately. Any advice would be appreciated. :)
                                    Shirty,
                                    On one of my non-FMS, EPO planes I had an aileron start to separate. I just took a razor knife and removed the aileron from the wing, and then reattached it with Dubro plastic hinges. After I glued the hinges into the wing and aileron, I then drill a small hole through the wing/hinge and again through the aileron/hinge. I then glue in a small piece of toothpick to help keep the hinge from pulling loose from the foam. Then I repeat for the other aileron that was not separating, and the elevator as well. Haven't done this mod on my FMS planes as I haven't seen any signs of separation yet. If I do, I'll do it the Duchess Arlene.

                                    By the way, that's a good use of the term "y'all". But if you really want to include everyone you use "all y'all", that covers more people than just "y'all". :)

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                                    • Just FYI, the stock screws in this model are not Phillips, but follow the JIS design, so, if you want to tighten them properly, you need the correct screwdrivers, as a Phillips screwdriver will not fit properly, and damage the screws. (true for most models, now, so get a set) Switching them for socket head or Torx head screws is a valid path to take, if you can find them in the proper length. Not easy with the screws that hold the wing down, because they are so long with such a small diameter.

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                                      • I can't tell you all how much better it is to use a proper fitting tool. Most models and products from Asia that use a "cross head" screw are made to the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) as opposed to what we are used here in the USA when we manufactures of products, the Reed & Prince and Philips are what we think of as cross head fasteners.
                                        http://revlimiter.net/blog/2014/09/t...-screwdrivers/


                                        I'd like to see MotionRC actually carry these JIT (Japanese Industrial Tips) screw drivers. The $20 to $30 for a proper set of screw drivers is well worth it. And since so many things around the house are now sourced from Asia you can tell the wife that this tooling goes against the house budget not your hobby budget (not that we need or actually have a hobby budget!)

                                        All the best,
                                        Konrad

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                                        • Thanks vince. :) that's what I was thinking, just hinge it like a normal bird. cheers.

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