Rascal76
Are these the figures posted earlier in the thread?
Are these the figures posted earlier in the thread?
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Yes they came from Shapeways. 1/24 US Navy PT Boat Crew Set #5Comment
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Hello All,
Just recieved this latest response from tech support. I am somewhat leary of modifing the hull by adding a water pickup/outlet although I do want realiability.Antone else have any thoughts.
Michael,
If you can I would find a way to add water cooling to that ESC with some brass tubing. Or check on it to make sure it's not scorching hot after 5-7min usage.
Regards,
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Andrew
MotionRC
Customer Support
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P!ss poor engineering from the start its sounding like... the esc's have plumbing for a reason.Comment
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If this is response from Motion on a poor engineering design in which we paid major dough they need to fess up and provide instructions and materials. This is stupid for a close to a $600.00 model.Comment
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Again good evening,
This is the latest, I mentioned to the tech rep,how would adding any non factory modification do to our warranty. this was the response.
Michael,
As long as it's done properly and doesn't sink your boat adding water cooling won't hurt the warranty for say a bad motor or servo.
Regards,
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Andrew
MotionRC
Customer Support
I'm not trying to be a jerk, but with an expensive boat, I don't just want to "wing it". Also I don't want to alter the scale appearance. Ordered a set of 1/24 crew today, hoping not to have to teach them an abandon ship drill.
MichaelComment
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RSRN, your looking at either drilling 2 to 4 holes in the hull for water pickup and exit. Or modifying 2 of the rudders with pickups, and still drilling holes. Extremely poor design... I'd be contacting MRC for an RMA, and get my money back.
Up holding the warranty is up to their interpretation of what voids it...remember that if you start drilling holes.Comment
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Right I agree. You should NOT have to modify anything to run the boat. First you will void the warranty, second it will cost you money and third, for an almost 600 dollar boat ... are you kidding me??? DaiOriginally posted by southernmd_man View PostComment
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This boat is also on my " MUST BUY" list. However I will wait for the corrected version before I jump. I think MRC should give the buyer credit upon getting the boat back and use that credit toward the new improved version. DaiComment
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I did a tub test on mine this afternoon. Before ran up the motors I attached a watt meter between the battery and ESC. I ran my boat for about 15 seconds on full throttle before it stopped. I could smell the ESC burning. The AMP rating I registered before the ESC died was 45 amps. Which is way under what was marked. Glad I did my first run in the bathtub and not the lake. Extremely, pissed at MRC and the technical staff for not addressing this problem other than drilling holes. In my case the representation asked me to return my boat. My problem is I have the box bottom but not the top. I have to think of way to put a top on it. But, I will pack it better than the way they shipped it to me.Comment
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Great that MRC is taking care of the costumers. Keep us posted. DaiOriginally posted by pdansalvish View PostComment
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Quick update. Received an email from CR rep Andrew. He requested pictures of the ESC. Pulled the ESC and took pictures. Noticed the ESC was set to NIHM. Anyway now waiting for Andrew/MRC to take the next action. I did inform the customer representative that I could not return the boat until next week. I have to go out of town for a funeral and will not be back until Monday.Comment
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Good afternoon,
Put the boat in the water today ran for approx 14 at pretty much full speed. Checked the motors and ESC at 7 minutes,they were warm but not hot. At 14 minutes, the boat quit,which I assume was when the ESC detected minimum voltage. The ESC was hot and there was an electrical smell,within 5 minutes it would run again for a short period, I assume as the battery rebounded momentarily. The boat ran well.
At this point I am very reluctant to attempt water cooling ie drilling holes in the hull, may have to modify run times/speed, still seems to me that this boat should be able to handle the above performance, its not a pool toy. I did send this note to the tech rep.
MichaelComment
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RSRN,
Do the test again. Use a watt meter to check out the AMPS while at full throttle. Use a voltage checker and check the cells. With my speed boat running at full throttle I get about a 8 minute run. So, a 14 minute run at full throttle should be about right. I was targeting 15-20 minute run at mix throttle settings.Comment
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On my 1/200 Yamato, after 2 minutes at 25% speed, the ESC stopped working and is HOT. After cooling it ran again but I could not run at a constant speed more than 30 seconds for fear it will quit in the middle of the lake. DaiOriginally posted by RSRN View PostComment
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Dai Phan,
Your Yamato is definitely ESC issue. The boat was not designed correctly to allow cooling as posted above and they are using crappy electronics. What surprises me is Alpha is not posting or any of their CS representatives. I wish I had the opportunity to dial into MRC's web show on Friday and try and get our questions answered on the crappy electronics. Unfortunately, I am on the road this Friday or I would be posting questions and would keep posting until someone answered.Comment
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Substandard electronics in Chinese RTF/RTR is again the default pattern. I really want to be wrong but from what I see ... DaiOriginally posted by pdansalvish View PostComment
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Hey pdansalvish,
Where am I checking the amps and are you talking about using a multi meters on the anps setting. Thanks for your time. I am surprised we have not heard from alpha, the moderator.Comment
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RSRN,
A watt-meter for RC is a device that plugs into your battery and into the ESC at the same time. When you start applying power, the meter will register watts generated, AMP and voltage being pulled. It provides the data in real time. I used this device when setting up my electric planes the first time. I need to know if my prop and battery is providing enough watts to fly the plane along with making sure the AMP and current draws are within spec of the ESC. I also use it with my RC cars after changing gearing ratios. Don't want to over AMP the ESC. When the issues were first reported with the boats. I wondered if the 3 motors running a full throttle were pulling more AMPs then what the ESC was rated. Also, if and when I get this boat up running I might change props for additional speed or for longer run times. Because the size and pitch of the props will change the AMP and voltage draw. Motion sells a watt-meter; here is the link: https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...r/EFLA110.html I advise getting one it you plane to do a lot in electric RC. It could save your plane, boat and car.Comment
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Good morning pdansalvish,
Thanks for all the info, the meter you mention is no longer available. any suggestions. This boat may turn into a money pit, oh well. Again thanks for your time. So much for RTR ,Ready to RunComment
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