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Bancroft PT-596 Patrol Boat - RTR

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  • Hi all. I got my replacement ESC a couple of days ago. Its was less than inspiring.
    It is a truck ESC with dual motor leads. The web site says they are in parallel so any pair will work. I am going to seal off the unused pair so if it does get wet in there they won't short out..
    I did hook it up and it does seem to work with no load. It does have a good looking heat sink on it.
    It did not come with an instruction sheet and was not shipped in the original box. I did look it up and found it came from Hobby Wing.
    Here is a link to the instructions
    Its original purchase price is $33.99 and came with an auxiliary fan which was not included. It has some programmable features but you will need to by a special programmer to change anything. It does not reverse in it's current state.

    Now the boat.

    The car type transmitter was a poor choice for this boat (my opinion) A stick type radio would have been a better fit. Not the one in the Fletcher. I like a radio without a spring loaded throttle so It can be set for consistent cruising speed without having to hold it in position. A stick type radio also allows for other functions to be activated. Like a sound system etc.

    The universal joints were not a good choice for the motor / prop shaft connection. A dog bone style connector would be much better. I have installed them in my boat. Much more compliant and allow for axial misalignment. You need a double universal for that.

    Apparently the grease on the prop shaft is wrong and needs to be replaced. No big deal but ???

    Was the one counter rotating prop really necessary? If so then the prop for that shaft should have had the opposite direction thread. As it stands the shaft rotation direction is trying to loosen that prop not tighten it like the other two. If you take it off for maintenance make sure to use plenty of thread locker when reinstalling it. The shafts and props are a M4 X .07 thread. You will need to clean out all the old thread locker before reinstalling.

    There are some cosmetic things like droopy gun barrels but I can fix that stuff.

    Is is a great looking boat on the water. I am looking forward to actually being able to use it!

    I am getting the boat set up for test run but with the weather forecast here in New England it may not happen until next spring.
    If there is problem then who knows what happens.


    • Hey Rascal,
      The dogbone replacements for the motor/driveshaft universals, where did you get them. It just seems like there are alot of things that are cropping up, this boats starting to feel like a kit, not a RTR. As far as the guns go, except for the 40mm, I've replaced all mine with 1/24 Shapeways Acrylic gun, they are models within themselves. I've also been doing some reading and vasoline is not really reccomended by too many boating blogs, they mention Lithium grease, but the red grease was certainly stiff. Thanks for your time.


      • Hey All, I do not have one of the ships yet, though I have experience with the racing methanol/nitro .60 CC fuelie boats circa the 1980's. We used Hughey Boats Shaft Lubricant (Part Number B230). It is 'blue' in color and always felt waxy as well as oily. I would check out what is being used by the fuelie racers. Very high RPM and harsh conditions would demand finding the better solution, I would think. Best, LB
        Last edited by Elbee; Nov 17, 2020, 01:25 PM. Reason: Corrected the Part Number. It is B230, not 0320.
        Captain: Got any ideas?
        F/O: Actually not.
        — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—


        • The dog bones came from Zipp Kits
          It's not a simple conversion. Both the motor shafts and the prop shafts have to be shortened and the prop side drive lug needs to have it's hole opened up. I had to buy a couple of reamers to do it.

          I also have to question where the thrust load from the prop shaft should be applied. Out of the box it looks like the forward thrust load is pushing on the strut the hangs down at the back of the boat.
          I wasn't to confident about that as the welding that connects the cylindrical part to the flat strut leg doesn't look very strong. If it isn't applied there then it is loading up on the motor shaft. I'm pretty sure those motors aren't designed to take a thrust load. So I added collars the prop shafts that push on the hull where the prop shaft enters. that way the strut isn't loaded up and the motor isn't seeing thrust load. This should improve the life of all components. was it necessary probably not but that's my engineering experience at work.
          I plan to put some running hours on this boat!


          • Not nice to hear at all. All my 3 boats are grounded ! Dai


            • I guess we can look at the bright side had this been an aircraft, we would be sweeping up a pile of parts. For those needing to redo the shafts on the PT Boat, I tried removing the shafs 2 ways, remove prop and pull from the rear, very tight clearence on the ruders. Or loosen motor( mark first where the motor is in relation to heatsink/motor mount), remove prop and locknut and bring shaft forward,the later being easier. That grease is an absolute mess, but will clean. out with some effort and a can of electronics cleaner. Hoping this maybe the end of the projects, I can't take much more of this Ready to Run stuff. I am thinking about converting it( PT boat) to steam and making it a sidewheeler, Missisippi river boat. I just need to get some 1/24 scale Mark Twain figures


              • To diaphn respectfully saying sir and mamThe dymimit esc works excellent it’s got a better range. So that’s what kind of esc I use
                I use it in my Atlantic harbor tug boat and my fletcher class destroyer battle ship with a cooling fan


                • It's been a while but I finally got my PT in the water for a test of the replacement ESC. It seemed to run correctly.
                  I put a continuous 5 minutes on it and it ran well and didn't get hot.
                  I did do the grease to petroleum jelly change.

                  I am not at all impressed with the top speed. It seems barely scale.

                  I am going to have to play with the balance as the boat seems to ride a little bow up. Maybe a sound card up there?

                  It is a loud boat. the large unsupported deck rings a lot. I have started adding some internal structure to try and deaden the hull sound.

                  Other than that we are functional just in time for winter,
                  Now it's detail time, crew, weathering etc..


                  • Originally posted by Rascal76 View Post
                    Other than that we are functional just in time for winter, Now it's detail time, crew, weathering etc..
                    R7, Please post pictures as you progress. Looking forward to it. Best, LB
                    Captain: Got any ideas?
                    F/O: Actually not.
                    — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—


                    • Click image for larger version

Name:	E90DB9D4-FEA1-43F4-B0B3-5226AFB796B1.jpeg
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ID:	292918 Improvised location and temporary stand for my recently updated boat.


                      • Hey does anyone have a good color match for the green hull color on this boat?

                        A brand name like Tamiya etc...

                        I have some touch up to do.


                        • Model Master # 4729 Dark Green( Europe)


                          • Thanks I'll check it out.


                            • If anyone is interested we have an open box PT596 for sale at this link:


                              Needs an ESC and some cosmetic TLC but if you plane to weather it then no big deal there. I would also change out the prop shaft grease. With no ETA on new ones coming in yet you can have it for this boating season.