2000mm Giant Scale B-24 - Olive Drab

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Fletcher into Measure 31and a new hull number.

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  • Fletcher into Measure 31and a new hull number.

    So First off before I get roasted by Painter's, Purists on camos, and Historians off all ages. Yes I did a bit of research. No I'm not a Master Modeler. Nor am I a master painter. I can find 5... Yes 5 pics of the ship I am attempting to depict in measure 31 (not including the Measure's diagram). Also many of the paints used on the ships at the time were mixed on the spot and not necessarily quite right in color so I picked some close to the pallets I could find that I liked. There are a few interesting articles about that and some of the Diagram interpretations of the Dazzle Camo's in general especially on the stern. (I was lucky got a stern view that show's that there were no extra panels on 797). No I did not sand things all the way down to bare fiberglass and yes I am re using the pre existing deck color. (Many ships never made it into fully one camo or another and after a few weeks at sea you could see what's called chipping often showing her previous camo underneath one of the pics I found showed quite a bit of this on the bow.

    So I've started repainting my Fletcher into 31 and have reached the irreversible point. So far I've gotten the Deck done and then taped it all off (probably going to have to retouch stuff and color match later but I have all winter) Right before I primed the hull a light sanding was done I am using the pre-existing paint a bit like a initial primer but still wanted cover my bases anyway.
    The curves aren't quite perfect but I don't think they turned out too bad.
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    Also taped off the aft Super structure and got started on Mid. Nowhere near done there though Aft has gotten its first layer or two. (primer and Black so it don't look like much yet either)
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    I'll post more here as she progresses.

  • #2
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    So Yeah busy weekend painting. Spent most of last week laying out the lines for the black and trying to remember that I was taping in negative and kept putting lines on the wrong side of where I needed/wanted them.
    And now I'm into masking off mid and forward superstructures...
    Figured out I put the waterline about 1/4 - 1/2 in low as I started you can see the result of that in the last pic where the tape doesn't follow the line below the second funnel. Wanted to cry when Ii realized . All things considered though it can stay.

    Comment


    • #3
      Keep up the good work! This is a "roast" free zone , so don't worry, there are plenty of us enjoying the hobby through experimentation. I personally love to see the creativity from everyone's custom projects. I have a Fletcher myself, just waiting for a nice day to send her on the maiden voyage. Keep the progress pictures coming.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Marco Polo View Post
        Keep up the good work! This is a "roast" free zone , so don't worry, there are plenty of us enjoying the hobby through experimentation. I personally love to see the creativity from everyone's custom projects. I have a Fletcher myself, just waiting for a nice day to send her on the maiden voyage. Keep the progress pictures coming.
        Thanks for the encouragement Marco Polo it is appreciated.

        Big goals last week were Red on the hull, FWD and MID Superstructures and Turrets
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        Needless to say results weren't too bad at all. Due to the waterline a bit low a few lines are close enough for government work . And I rushed taping a bit here and there and paid for it when spraying. But spray painting is pretty much over. And Tape is off with only one Line cut. Got greedy and cut literally the last line I was removing tape from. Click image for larger version

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        Then the last day or two I decided to try out an idea. I removed the Bofors mounts for taping and spraying and got a crazy idea for putting them back. I added neodymium magnets to their bottoms.
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        So basic process. The aft center one came off with the round plate still attached so I used a Dremel to make a small hole just deep enough to fit the magnets I had in both that plate and the deck and let them come in direct contact to hold things together. Then used some epoxy to mount both in place.
        The FWD and mid sets I used two differently sized magnets a larger underneath the deck and then a smaller on the mount.
        When I removed those guns the turret base stayed put which was helpful as I was able to grind a hole deep enough to fit the magnet into so that it sat just a little deep and with them in place I used that to find where I needed the underneath magnets. The FWD set required a hole in the bulkheads but it is still out of site unless you are looking up at the ship. A little paint over and its another detail that requires super close examination to find. So after the bottom magnets were set I removed the round turret plates and epoxied them and the magnets to the turrets the whole setup rested on the plate and turned freely and smoothly with a little sanding.

        Now for lessons learned.
        1 Scribes are sharp... My thumb can attest.
        2. Mark the Magnets I knew about this from putting ordinance on a RC plane using them but still ended up with Midship Magnets upside down from FWD and AFT magnet sets... Yeah... if you put ONE upside down from all the rest good luck...
        3. Use plastic or some such when dropping a magnet into the hole to make sure you are mounting it the right way. Prying them out is one of the ways my thumb met the scribe.
        4. The turrets deck plates are BRITTLE 4 of 5 have cracks that have had to be epoxied now. But all is good I need to repaint them anyway.

        Bonus for it though is now they all turn and can be easily removed if I need to. I looked at doing the same to the 50cal pintle mounts but there's not really enough room in them to fit a magnet (at least at my skill level) and getting the magnets positioned inside the main deck would have been interesting to say the least.

        May be couple of weeks before my next update. I'm starting to get down to detailing work before full re-assembly at this point. And I got to decide if I want to put a hole underneath the FWD structure or not so I can reach the Nr1 turret and get all 5 turrets on servo's. Then if I do How, what needs done to keep fiberglass from fraying later and can I make the gun director turn with them...

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        • #5
          very nice i love it
          and illl alwys love battle ships

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          • #6
            and respecfully saying thanks for telling me what kind of paint they used im greatfully appreicated it's gonnna take me some time to track down this paint thats ment for hard plastics and fiberglass proudcuts
            i might buy the aircraft carrer made like bancroft boats

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            • #7
              So been a bit. And a lot of sweating as I did the next portion. You could probably smell the hair burning as I overheated the brain figuring out what I ended up doing.
              End results were pretty good though.
              All 5 turrets now turn and so does the gun director.
              (Took some video's but not going to try to upload those so you're all just going to have to settle for pics)
              Going to put this in two posts Gun Director is first.

              WARNING I GET A BIT STEP BY STEP HERE
              so break out the popcorn and enjoy or just look at the pretty pics and have fun
              THE GUN DIRECTOR WAS RIGGED DIFFERENT THAN THE GUNS
              AND BOTH METHODS HAD SOME WARTS BUT EVERYTHING TURNS AND LINES UP... mostly... kinda... ok ok sooo maybe I got one or two off just a bit.

              The Gun Director is on sort of a jury rigged set up partially due to me not wanting to try cutting far enough to get a servo up there. And partially due to me not really knowing how I was going to mount the servo. Up side is I can adjust and dial in the direction the Gun Director is pointed in relation to the servo.
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              First I detached the gun director and then cut a hole through the 01 deck and drilled a hole centered under where it used to be down through the bridge.
              Then more disassembly I used some #8-32 all thread and a couple nuts on the bottom deck of the Director.
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              was still figuring out how to go about this I imagine there are more elegant solutions but this is mine.
              Epoxy and magnets. I epoxied the nut in the middle and use a second nut to lock the all thread in place this lets me adjust the direction of the Director on the all thread. Then some magnets to hold it down on its bottom plate.
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              To connect to the servo I made the decision to forgo (mostly) the servo horn solution. With no good way to secure the post around a pivot point other than at the upper end without something binding and or adding a lot more weight high up than I just had. (nice thing is is some of this I can undo for lighter materials without destroying anything)
              once again I turned to a magnetic solution. And after much cussing I achieved a direct drive with magnets. Silly but it worked. Figured out that easiest way to keep polarity and position was to put a small magnet on both sides of the horns. It also eased the case of Sailor Mouth I had going for a bit... You should have heard my sister laughing at me as I was trying to do this while talking to her on the phone.
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              Then came mounting the servo so it didn't turn only one pick of that but the rubber bands are attached to some small dowels that go across some ledges and holds everything in place. Between them and the magnets I can just cut those and replace them if I need to replace the servo. And strangely enough nothing moves inside when I get the guns turning so It works pretty well.
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              This ugly beast of a solution was my first attempt and has gotten me to a much better place for the gun mounts. Though those have a few warts too.

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              • #8
                This one is more about what I did and learned about for the Guns
                First was for me a scary part. Realizing I had no way past Cutting into the deck. And no way to secure a mount for a servo without a way to access it from the exterior of the ship. I was also coming to the realization that the access holes were just too small for me to get far enough forward to put a linkage onto the bottom of the NR 1 Gun and there was no clearance past the Steering gear to get to the NR 5 gun.
                So the Forward (FWD) Superstructure became the Guinea Pig again. And it started with a bunch of measuring and a bit of doodling on a note card. Then devolved into me using a hand tool with a drill bit to ream out the pivot holes for the gun mounts...
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                I made the hole just big enough that a servo horn could smoothly pivot inside of it... Then a bit of wood glue, some wood blocks and a couple flat pieces and kaboom a servo mount. Click image for larger version

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                I built the frame mostly around the servo I had then put it onto the mount upside down to mark where I wanted the holes then went Dremel Happy. No I didn't do the holes all at once they were done in stages with each one receiving a lot of paranoia. I planned the process the night before while gluing then followed through the next day after everything had set. Then I beveled/chamfered the hole by hand (ones the right term anyway) the holes and used a wood screw so that the head sat just barely below the flat.
                Rinse and repeat while improving the process for the AFT Superstructure. And then I have 3 of 5 servos mounted...
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                Sounds SOOOOO easy right... Yeah... Though actually NR 3 and NR 4 were pretty easy knowing what to do. Worst part was making sure they were mounted straight.

                Now Here is where the terror really started For Me anyway. Cutting the deck itself. I did it in stages and at different times. But
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                Yeah when they did the deck it's not flat fiberglass underneath at least on mine I count around 4 different spots its folded over like you can see. One of them in a pretty bad spot for turret NR 5's servo mount. I'd wanted to do a lip around the edge like on the normal openings but that didn't work. My fiberglass-fu was not strong... But I did re-resin all the edges around the hole hopefully that will prevent fraying. It did knock down the frays cutting caused though so that's a win.
                NR 1 turret base popped off when I went to ream the hole but that actually made things a bit easier so I intentionally aimed for NR 5 to come free when I did that one.
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                I used wider sides to give me a bit more to work with for NR 1 and NR 5 mounts and here is my jig I used to reach it in. I used a long screw to catch the servo and pull it into place to attach everything. My servo uses metric threads and Needed a M3-0.5X40 screw all I can say about that is the Granger near my home is awesome neither of us knew what size the tiny horn screws were when we started but I left there with both a bag of long screws and a bag of nuts for them in less than 10 min two thumbs up for them from me. Also clothespins and rubber bands are my friends...
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                NR5 is where I ran into problems with a fold. and had to modify a mount and will need to take it back out to cut a notch in one side for the rudder linkage it bumps it rite now. Not enough to deflect the rudder and only when the rudder is hard over to one side. but still that needs to go. as you can see I let one hole drift and had to trim one end of the mount pretty heavily. In fact more so than this pic shows.
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                through a mirror one shows the mount aft looking fwd in place with the rudder linkage down one side with the fold in the fiberglass the other from the fwd looking aft showing the mount as tight up against the deck as it could get.
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                last mirror I promise this one is looking into the bow. My camera is too big to fit.
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                got told too many pics so one more

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                • #9
                  Next is power the servos on and MAKE SURE they are centered... Put the servo horns on them and mark them so you know which direction you want them in. I messed this up a bit on one or two but...
                  You will have to remove the bottoms of the turrets for this part. Go slow be patient and use a sharp knife DON'T just pry it off you will break the Gun's body I broke a small piece off one when I rushed and tried to pry. I got lucky and it was a small chip that glued back easy. But I could have just as easily broke out an entire side.
                  Remove the post a bit of wiggling worked on them. One I had to cut a bit of paint around it but they all came out fairly easily. Find the center of the servo horn (I used the round ones) and center it with the hole in the plate. I then used a dremel to remove some of the wood plate so the horn fit in and epoxied them in place. This is where those index markings get pretty important. Line them up for how they will sit. This is one of the warts to this method. Its hard to dial in a mount turned a little to one side. Best way I've found so far is I left a little gap between the servo's and the side plates of their mounting this lets me turn them slightly to make adjustments. Easy for NR 2, 3, and 4. Not so easy for NR 1 and NR 5



                  Another Wart is I had to modify the AFT Access hole a bit to accommodate the servo and the wires. I didn't have to take the lip out completely but I did notch it a bit.

                  And I'm now working on securing the FWD superstructure what I have is good for positioning and seems to hold just fine. And I need to figure out a splash lip for the hole at some point.(not done with the securing yet but here's part of it) it just fits down over the blocks and they actually hold pretty well. I should be able to remove and install it without breaking the life raft poles (broke one while cutting the hole you can see its post in the first pic) if I remove it aft then kind of turn before lifting out so that's promising.

                  May be a few more weeks got wire management, guns to secure to their bottom plates, and a smoke generator to work on before the next update. Though those are pretty standard fare. And with luck this won't have made her so top heavy she turtles the instant she see's water​. I don't think I've added that much but until everything's back together. At least the smoker can be set low with only a bit of tubing to the stacks, and wire management will be all down in the hull. And I still haven't ballasted so I can adjust that as low as possible too.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just realized not all the pics on that last post took if anyone needs em let me know and I'll try figuring em out and re posting them otherwise... Not gonna bother.
                    Spent time detailing visiting family and just putzing at the ship. No hurry everything is frozen over here anyway.
                    Accidentally popped the barrels free of one of the Bofers mounts and rather than just gluing it back I took a bit of a risk and drilled a hole through the mount and the gun pushed a pin in and had a nice little win. Not going force the process on the other 4 with no guarantee of success and every chance I'd just mess one or more up.
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                    When placing the FWD Superstructure I added some magnets to the inside and just under the Main Deck for the ladders right there. This lets me remove them so I don't have any trouble with removing the Superstructure.
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                    Then to lighten my mom's mood I did a quick customization to my 1/200 Yamamoto (2020's been a rough year on the family) This is pre-gluing while still picking the adjustment.
                    Final load-out was a quartet of Tie Interceptors backed by an Tie Advanced down in the hanger well. Classic Tie's were just a little to tall.

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                    Finished adding magnets to the turrets so they'd stay on their plates.
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                    Finally had to break down and repaint the full deck after I screwed up and smeared some paint across it while doing touch ups. I like the new colors a little better did turret tops in the new colors too. Darker for most of the deck with some Lighter areas around the AA gun tubs and a few other areas.
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                    Then wile staring at picks on another forum
                    The Ship Model forum under Calling all Fletcher Class DD fans
                    http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum...hp?f=49&t=8105
                    Those Modlers have done and INSANE amount of research on the class and I've found more than one answer to a question on placement and such there just searching through over 100 pages of posts with pics and diagrams.
                    I found the right layout for the Depth Charge Racks I'll be changing the layout for them when I put em back on. Wont be quite accurate (racks are wrong size and got to account for the Rudder post access) but first pic is roughly planned layout second is a divided layout left is closest to accurate as i could get and right side is what it was.
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                    Then I did a bunch of small parts painting (copied the paint of a Bofors mount we got on base here in Great Lakes... Mostly...)
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                    Still a lot of detailing to do and lots of small rabbit holes to explore this thing will never be museum quality but when I'm done I intend this boat to be a head turner.
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                    • #11
                      So been a while since I threw down anything. Wasn't much to put down just epoxied a bunch of deck gear back down. Finished a small detail or two on the paint.

                      Big thing (at least to me) is she's got her hull numbers now and they are GORGEOUS !!!!

                      HUGE SHOUT OUT TO MY BUDDIES WIFE!!! She may not ever visit this forum but still.
                      So rather than painting the numbers on I had them done in vinyl. Rather than trying to get into Callie's Que which I hear is pretty long right now for just a couple of numbers I looked at a vinyl cutter in the local Hobby Shop (arts an crafts type) and didn't want to spend $250 for a small project on a Cutter I may only use a few times again. So while chatting with some of my fellows I found out the wife of one has a Vinyl Cutter and would be willing to do the job.
                      She just needed the right file type so the Cutter could read it.
                      After a bit of searching and putzing around I found a Font I liked and a Program that would tell me what size of the thing I wanted would be. (program was INKSCAPE) It also let me print em on paper so i could see the actual size too and compare how it looked on the hull before it went to get cut.
                      Passed on a USB with the file and she sent me back a set of numbers and a ships name the next day. Best part was she also said since I made it easy by adding the file she's willing to do another set if I ever need em.
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                      If you look at the stern of most ships (at least those I've served on and a few pics of others) The Name is welded in place and sticks out enough that if you are close you can see it. In the Picks the name wasn't painted and I can't tell if it was there but still took a bet that it was. So by putting the vinyl on and then painting over it made it like the welded name plate. A nice little detail if someone is looking too close.
                      Another detail you may notice is the Depth Charge racks overhanging. While poking around on that forum and looking at the layout I finally settled on a layout and fabricated the braces that would have been in place and they needed painting too so two for one. Plus the stern had a little speckling from another project that was a little too close when I painted.
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                      Removed the Motors for one reason or another and broke a coupling but have since replaced both couplings and am now debating how far I want to go with gutting and re-doing the electronics. Right now I can go back to how it was easily enough. Though the receiver will change I have a better one that I can use my Spectrum DX7s with.
                      A lot of that will depend on how much more I want to sink into this. Plus I'm close to the point I need to ballast her and find out how bad I messed her center of gravity up. I don't think she'll be too top heavy but I'd hate to find out the hard way.
                      Regardless I have more than one way to cut some topside weight if I need to.

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                      • #12
                        I’m just wondering where I would buy these rigging hooks are there supposed to be 4 ladders on my fletcher class destroyer battle ship 1:72 scale battleship made by aquacraft
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                        • #13
                          I’m just wondering where I would buy these rigging hooks are there supposed to be 4 ladders on my fletcher class destroyer battle ship 1:72 scale battleship made by aquacraft this is the rigging sting I use on my fletcher class destroyer battle ship It’s just sewing thread u can buy it at micheals arts and crafts store or joann frabics
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Battleship View Post
                            I’m just wondering where I would buy these rigging hooks are there supposed to be 4 ladders on my fletcher class destroyer battle ship 1:72 scale battleship made by aquacraft this is the rigging sting I use on my fletcher class destroyer battle ship It’s just sewing thread u can buy it at micheals arts and crafts store or joann frabics
                            I have the thread already I used a cross stitch floss (another type of thread but similar my mom taught me too much about that stuff) I just need to break down and install it.

                            The rigging hooks... I unfortunately do not know but I can suggest a few places I would start looking in. If you cant find anything at a local hobby shop.
                            Joann Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, and similar often have a crafts area where you can find materials for doll houses. check that area and ask the staff they may have an idea.
                            next would be an local hardware store not necessarily a big one like Menards though they may have similar. in all likely hood you wont find exactly the same hooks but you might find something similar enough to work.
                            another option would be fishing hooks. they have an eye already and with a little head and some pliers you may be able to bend a correct curve on the hook end and just cut off the excess. some copper or brass rods (thin ones) may be able to be fabricated into new hooks.

                            EDIT Near as I can tell there are only supposed to be 3 ladders on the rear of the Forward Superstructure yours are set up similar to mine just glued down rather than magnets.

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                            • #15
                              Respectfully saying that I read your message and I understood it I’m going to the Toledo rc expo convention on Some where in April but I called the number to the rc expo but I had to. Leave a message on there voicemail it looks like they might be able to have the rc expo this April

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                              • #16
                                But I may be able to find the rigging hooks. At the rc expo plus the navy sailor crew figgurens hopefully that will complete my fletcher class battleships with out any figurens my fletcher class battleship looks like a ghost battle that came out and was shurken to 1:72 scale but. I still love it very much oh and I finally ordered three. Extra. Motors 550 mah motors or engines. From motion rc. Com

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                                • #17
                                  I’ll have to try that out

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                                  • #18
                                    Two dawgs I love and admire the work that you did on your fletcher class destroyer battle ship looks like it really stand out but if I did what changes I wouldn’t know where to start so looses to u and the work is very impressive and is very nicely done but I’m still looking for the battle ship figurenes crew members I might be able to find the figureens at the Toledo rc expo.

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                                    • #19
                                      I actually have found all of my riggin hooks I just missplaced them but if I have a 1:72 scale the boat people at tower hobbies told me that I have to use 1 160:scale figurenes n scale of the navy battle ship crew of the fletcher class destroyer battle ship but anyways ttyl for now

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                                      • #20
                                        Did a quick sunset Shakedown Cruse.
                                        Few bugs to fix.
                                        Rudder was reversed and caused a bit of initial confusion (easily fixed reversed it in radio prob solved). And for some reason 2 servo's weren't responding despite having done so the night before.
                                        Life wasn't helped by me dropping the FWD superstructure. You may notice a bit of tape fixing a radial on the mast. There is a bit more that is less visible that will need fixed.
                                        Final Ballast was About 6Lb's give or take a bit. I weighed her a bit heavy fwd and will likely adjust it down a bit and will be changing how I secure it in. Right now its loose lead shot in bags (may not be ideal but its what I have) I will likely be melting it into bricks or finding better containers so that I can remove it for transport.
                                        Did replace the grease in the stern-tubes though I think I may need to remove a bit it does the high pitch electric hum at low power and one motor starts turning before the other may be from other issues, but will look into that as I trouble shoot the NR 3 and 4 mount servo's.
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                                        ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​
                                        these are the pics that turned out most were blurry due to light and me trying to juggle a camera with a controller in the other hand.
                                        Despite the issues She pulled off some pretty aggressive maneuvering quite well and moved with some pretty good zip wish these two had turned out. But you can see pretty clearly from her wake She can turn quite well and gets up and goes. She also does fine maneuvering pretty good as the last pic in the upper set I put her there by coming straight at the shore to avoid a couple of rocks and had to swing her round the rock just off her mast. No hand assist needed.
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                                        Lastly I prepped a recovery Gator.
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                                        After viciously attacking a pool noodle with a bread knife I forced it to talk with a hot glue gun and made it tell me where the documents were...
                                        Ok ok so maybe not the documents part but I did put some magnets in the ends and two in the middle section. I matched them up with some magnets inside the hull on the stern of my ship. Not even gonna TRY getting pics of those they are in some pretty hard to see spots but it works well enough I can move the ship by pulling the string attached to the contraption with the ship on my work table without the magnets letting go or destroying the paint.
                                        Still need to see if the gator is strong enough to tow if not I'll gut it and re-do its insides so that it is. Eventually I will do a better rescue boat but for now this will do.

                                        PS: had a bit of fun with some leftover spray paint and a cargo ship model I've been putzing away at still debating if I want to get fancy and put a motor in or not. ​ ​ ​
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                                        and just so there's not 13 pics.
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