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Blitzrcworks V22 Osprey advice

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  • #21
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    We flew for 9 years on a Federal Native reserve. The guy who ran our "club" was an avid RC flyer and was a high ranking member of the band. This past year, he stopped flying and lost interest in continuing to run the club. Without a band member in charge, they closed the field down for flying. They opened up the area for dog walking. We might be able to fly while we walk our dogs. :Not-Talking:
    Or you all could fly one of these:
     

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    • #22
      Perfect! I almost built one but instead, I built the flying girl from the same guy. I may have to do it now so I can fly there.

      Comment


      • #23
        lol. Didn't get much flying in today. Had a big member meeting, We have a new President and Vise President today. Lost one of the motor cowlings somewhere today. Hopefully somebody found it and picked it up. If I ever get my 3d printer delivered, I might be able to make one. Anyway happy flying everyone, Good cheer for the New Year.

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        • #24
          So now for some reason the fight controller is blinking it's blue led non stop. After binding I cycled the nacelles 10 times thinking this would arm the flight control board. No elevator. No ailerons. No throttle.

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          • #25
            The blue light should be solid.
            These are some of things I can think of that you should try:
            1. Throttle trim on face of TX should be as low as it will go. Ensure you have not altered the throttle sub-trim in the servo adjust menu. Now re-bind. Do you have any control responses? Do the nacelles finalize themselves in the hover position? (They go to 45 degrees when you plug in the battery and then slowly move to the vertical.) If not, make sure the switch is in the correct position to put them there. With throttle cut ON, do the nacelles respond when the switch is thrown for airplane flight? Put them back to vertical when done testing. In hover mode, the nacelles respond to ELE and RUD. Only the ailerons will move with AIL. The elevator won't move with ELE.
            2. Do the throttle calibration with NO throttle cut activated (ie, throttle is live). On mine, when it's ready to fly, the left prop spins first before the right one fires up.
            3. Flip the nacelle position switch (hover vs airplane) 10 to 15 times. Wait a couple seconds and you should see the nacelles do a flip flop dance and the motors blip themselves momentarily. This whole sequence can take up to 10 seconds but the manual says it can take up to a minute. The plane should be level. Don't touch any of the sticks during this time. The flight controller is armed as soon as the battery is plugged in and you hear the ESC beeps to say you've got a 4-cell battery. The switch flipping merely initializes and calibrates the flight controller. I first started flying this plane without doing the switch flipping but there were more "brain farts" while flying.

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            • #26
              Thanks xviper. Going to hook it all up and go through the procedures. Might take a while to get back to you about it. Thanks.

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              • #27
                Ok. I give up for now. Got a hold of Pete at Banana hobbies. He had the same problem. When I get time I'm going to go through all the wiring. Did the whole procedure. Worst case scénario, faulty flight controller. Going to swap out rx and try a different radio this weekend. Thanks anyways.

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                • #28
                  Originally posted by Skyboom View Post
                  Ok. I give up for now. Got a hold of Pete at Banana hobbies. He had the same problem. When I get time I'm going to go through all the wiring. Did the whole procedure. Worst case scénario, faulty flight controller. Going to swap out rx and try a different radio this weekend. Thanks anyways.
                  That's a bummer, man! I should probably build mine soon just to see if I've got the same problem. At least with me, I can swap in the controller from my first one if need be. I'm planning to keep it for parts.

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                  • #29
                    I gonna buy a spare board anyway.They probably will discontinue the model. In a few years their won't be any parts. Or I could use no flight controller and hook up Rx to fly mode. Would have to lock nacelles, so no hovering. Bigger landing gear and a steerable nose wheel. It's endless. lol.

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                    • #30
                      As a pure airplane, this model is uninspiring. There are many, many far better airplanes around than this one. I got only because it could take off vertically and hover around. I hope you get it resolved.
                      Does a spare controller come pre-programmed. I wouldn't have a clue as to what kind of software it needs to make this thing work.

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                      • #31
                        Would you believe it was as simple as removing the bind plug and reminding without it. It was the only other option I never explored. Jees I'm glad that's all it was. Thanks for trying to help anyway. Now I just need to find that spinner I lost.

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                        • #32
                          Funny, I was going to say something about removing the bind plug but then I thought ........................................ "Naw! He might be insulted by that." :Not-Talking: Glad it was nothing serious. Looking forward to seeing and hearing about your upcoming flights.

                          Oh, if you can't find that spinner, give me a shout. I've got my old one for spares and I can mail you one. I just need to see exactly what part you are talking about.

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                          • #33
                            I found the spinner. It was under the back seat of my pickup truck. I used a telescopic magnet to fish out the tiny screw, that holds it to the prop shaft. I used a little foam tac to set the screws. I read your post about using foam tac instead of loctite. If I ever damage a prop, It won't be so hard to take out. Good onward and upward into another project. Waiting for a hobby iron, so I can cover some aircraft wings.

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                            • #34
                              Click image for larger version

Name:	B62BA722-DC4B-4961-8921-D0A1A8203D3F.jpeg
Views:	813
Size:	47.8 KB
ID:	244162 Hi,

                              Hopefully you can help me with the following regarding my Blitzrcworks V22.

                              After a crash, the rod/axis that moves the nacelle got bend. As shown in the pictures, I removed the nacelle from the wing, but I can’t get the rod/axis out of the servo. On the outside of the nacelle was a screw that I unscrewed, but the rod/axis doesn’t come loose.

                              Do any of you have any idea on how to remove the rod? I emailed Bananahobby and the employee who replied said he would look at it at home, but never got back to me.

                              Thanks in advande for your reply,

                              Paul Click image for larger version

Name:	20E99112-4160-4DD0-9491-D344B2B192F2.jpeg
Views:	678
Size:	46.1 KB
ID:	244161

                              Comment


                              • #35
                                From those pictures, it appears that you already have the rod removed from the servo. There is no servo in the nacelle. I bent mine up a few times myself and I've never removed the rod from the nacelle. After the first attempt, I just left the rod in place and just bent the rod with everything connected in the direction that needed to straighten it. Power up the plane and rotate the nacelles till you can see how the nacelle needs to be bent. Then power off, grab the nacelle firmly and bend it till you can get it to rotate through its arc evenly. I've done it about 3 times and the plane flies pretty good now.

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                                • #36
                                  I picked up a couple of these Blitz Osprey's for hovering out in the desert and in the driveway at home, in-between some of my heli flights....and have been flying it with both 2500 and 4000 mah lipos ( I have the second kit for parts in the future)...I have found that it was necessary for me to calibrate the Osprey before every flight, if I didn't want it to go crazy...and I have had success in simple hovering around and touch and goes, but for me, I believe it would be a crash waiting to happen, if not immediately, if I ever went into forward flight with this aircraft....although I have found my little eflight Osprey a delight to fly in both modes....I believe we are still a little ways off before seeing a decent RC Osprey coming to market....good luck and enjoy yours!

                                  Comment


                                  • #37
                                    Originally posted by fastphil View Post
                                    I picked up a couple of these Blitz Osprey's for hovering out in the desert and in the driveway at home, in-between some of my heli flights....and have been flying it with both 2500 and 4000 mah lipos ( I have the second kit for parts in the future)...I have found that it was necessary for me to calibrate the Osprey before every flight, if I didn't want it to go crazy...and I have had success in simple hovering around and touch and goes, but for me, I believe it would be a crash waiting to happen, if not immediately, if I ever went into forward flight with this aircraft....although I have found my little eflight Osprey a delight to fly in both modes....I believe we are still a little ways off before seeing a decent RC Osprey coming to market....good luck and enjoy yours!
                                    I use a 4000mah, 4s, Admiral on this plane. As you say, the plane MUST be "calibrated" each and every time before taking to the air. That simply involves attaching the battery, let it do it's initial thing, set it on a level surface and flip the transition switch between 12 and 15 cycles (throttle cut NOT on, lowest throttle stick). The thing does a little chicken dance, sometimes twice. Then it's ready. I transition it every time now and so long as some things are done (and not done), there's no problem.
                                    1. Nacelles set up so that when they are in airplane mode, both of them are fairly level, although a little offset is OK and natural. One is usually a bit higher than the other but if it's too high, it will immediately roll after transition and you may not be able to bring it back.
                                    2. Increase forward elevator travel to max (150% for Spektrum).
                                    3. After the first transition to airplane mode, trim for level flight, then once back on the table, take out trim on TX and manual set the elevator for what it was with trim. This is a trial and error thing and should be finalized after a couple of flights. Do same for ailerons once trimmed for level flight. When transitioning to airplane flight, throw the switch and DO NOT touch the sticks till it's completely finished the transition. Trying to control it when it's not done the transition will give it a brain fart and could cause it to spiral out of control. Use a bit more throttle just before throwing the switch.
                                    4. When getting ready to come back to hover, always go into wind, have reasonable altitude at first (just in case), reduce throttle to just above 1/2, throw the switch to go into hover. DO NOT touch the sticks until the plane has fully completed the transition. If wind pushes the plane backwards, apply forward stick to fly against it. NEVER attempt to fly backwards or even to hold position with wind with back ELE stick. This will almost always cause a brain fart and it will tumble out of the sky. Some back stick occasionally is OK but do it gently and sparingly. This plane does NOT like back ELE when hovering. A likely chance for it to crash is using too much back stick when trying to land the last couple of feet off the ground.

                                    You can do circuits easily by using forward stick into the wind and crosswind and let the wind carry it when going with wind - NO back stick. If the plane ever starts to oscillate in flight or you can hear the motors oscillate, let go of the sticks, give it a little more throttle. Once it settles down, then fly it again.

                                    The smaller Eflite V-22 is actually pretty good and it's flight controller is somewhat better and more stable than the Banana one. It's much better at flying backwards. But the same "hands off" during transitions applies. Surprisingly, the same comparison can be made between the big and small Eflite Convergence. The smaller one operates much better than the bigger one. It seems the flight controller for the smaller one has better programming. Learning the nuances of all these planes and knowing what to do and what not to do can virtually eliminate mishaps. All three of these planes fly superbly for me now.

                                    PS. The very best of all of these sorts of VTOLs is my Flex Innovations FV-31 Cypher quad EDF.

                                    Comment


                                    • #38
                                      Hi Viper, Thanks for the lowdown on the big Osprey, ...I agree with you on every point,...and if I didn't have a some time on the Convergence, I would have struggled or splashed the V-22's....also still flying the little Osprey!

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                                      • #39
                                        The video I posted up in post #4 was from the early days of my V-22, before the time that Pete made that video about the "calibration" steps (switch cycling 15 times). It actually flew not too bad then but it flies much, much better now that I calibrate it every flight and having increased the ELE forward stick travel to max.

                                        Comment


                                        • #40
                                          Originally posted by PaulfromHolland View Post
                                          Click image for larger version

Name:	B62BA722-DC4B-4961-8921-D0A1A8203D3F.jpeg
Views:	813
Size:	47.8 KB
ID:	244162 Hi,

                                          Hopefully you can help me with the following regarding my Blitzrcworks V22.

                                          After a crash, the rod/axis that moves the nacelle got bend. As shown in the pictures, I removed the nacelle from the wing, but I can’t get the rod/axis out of the servo. On the outside of the nacelle was a screw that I unscrewed, but the rod/axis doesn’t come loose.

                                          Do any of you have any idea on how to remove the rod? I emailed Bananahobby and the employee who replied said he would look at it at home, but never got back to me.

                                          Thanks in advande for your reply,

                                          Paul Click image for larger version

Name:	20E99112-4160-4DD0-9491-D344B2B192F2.jpeg
Views:	678
Size:	46.1 KB
ID:	244161

                                          I just took apart my broken V-22 for parts and that rod you show does, in fact, just pull out after that screw is removed. The end has pieces that have angled surfaces, so they are wedged in there. Once the screw is removed, you take channel lock pliers and hold the rod and wiggle and rotate the whole rod while you pull. It will come out.

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