2000mm Giant Scale B-24 - Olive Drab

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Official RotorScale AS350 Alpine Yellow and Red 450 Size Helicopter Discussion Thread

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  • Seems like a lot of work and money to dump into this but just my opinion. There are a lot of mixed opinions out there on the zip tie method but it seemed to work fine for me but perhaps I can see if the leveler I have from the 470 trex might fit. dunno. just seems unnecessary. I dont' like having to take everything apart. Perhaps if I eventually have to replace the gear and shaft etc. then it might be worth re-leveling. for now, it flies pretty decent, good enough for me.

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    • Replaced main rotor shaft bearing with a Tarot single piece bearing block. Cost was $18.60 delivered. Had a couple of new shafts that I checked for straightness on a 1 2 3 block. Replaced the shaft with one of these new ones. Without the main rotor blades the vibration was all but eliminated even at 100 percent throttle with the mechanics mounted back in the fuse and tail rotor on. With main rotor blades on there is noticeable vibration so need to balance blades or get some that come balanced. Getting close to having a good flying as350.

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      • Originally posted by Bulldog View Post
        ... With main rotor blades on there is noticeable vibration so need to balance blades or get some that come balanced. Getting close to having a good flying as350.
        I've been using the Tarot Carbon blades from GoGoRC. They are high quality, balanced and inexpensive. I bought a dozen sets and each pair was matched to within 0.1 gram. Highly recommended!

        Tarot Black 325mm Carbon Rotor Blade / 3K For Trex T-REX 450 Helicopter RHS2332

        GoGoRC is a small operation based out of Hong Kong. The shipping is not free but he gets the stuff out pretty quickly and is well packaged.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by ridgerunner View Post
          I've been using the Tarot Carbon blades from GoGoRC. They are high quality, balanced and inexpensive. I bought a dozen sets and each pair was matched to within 0.1 gram. Highly recommended!

          Tarot Black 325mm Carbon Rotor Blade / 3K For Trex T-REX 450 Helicopter RHS2332

          GoGoRC is a small operation based out of Hong Kong. The shipping is not free but he gets the stuff out pretty quickly and is well packaged.
          Just notified of your post here a minute ago as I finished purchasing a set of blades on ebay for 35.50. Thanks for letting me know about these, seen them and they look good. I like Tarot stuff and have four of their items on my heli.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Bulldog View Post

            Just notified of your post here a minute ago as I finished purchasing a set of blades on ebay for 35.50. Thanks for letting me know about these, seen them and they look good. I like Tarot stuff and have four of their items on my heli.
            Remember what I said on the phone, good blades make scale so much better to fly and fun, but a not so good set of blades can be balanced and usable if you spend the time doing the balance, if they are to far off then it's not worth it, tracking the blades is one of the most important things along with balancing, they will smooth out a heli like butter as long as your main shaft, feathering shaft and tail shaft are straight, so if you got straight shafts, good quality main and tail blades and balanced CG wise and weight wise, tracking is spot on, and making sure the motor pinion and main gear are meshed just right, all these things need to be addressed if your fighting vibrations and head speed plays a big part when your flying scale.

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            • Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

              Remember what I said on the phone, good blades make scale so much better to fly and fun, but a not so good set of blades can be balanced and usable if you spend the time doing the balance, if they are to far off then it's not worth it, tracking the blades is one of the most important things along with balancing, they will smooth out a heli like butter as long as your main shaft, feathering shaft and tail shaft are straight, so if you got straight shafts, good quality main and tail blades and balanced CG wise and weight wise, tracking is spot on, and making sure the motor pinion and main gear are meshed just right, all these things need to be addressed if your fighting vibrations and head speed plays a big part when your flying scale.
              Hey, hope you are over the virus and feeling better. Yes I do remember about the blade balancing. Watched a couple of vids and tried their methods and honestly it was a big PITA. These blades are not flat on one side so they roll all over the place. So I set out to find a set where the seller says they are balanced with regard to weight and CG. What I found was kind of pricey but no others made any statement about that. Found Ridgerunners post a minute after I paid for these on Ebay. Good info from him so I will get a set of the Tarots next.
              Did put in a new main rotor shaft and checked for straightness. New Tarot rotor head so did not check feathering shaft, assumed it was OK since this heli has not even been airborne yet. I did not check tail rotor shaft or meshing of the pinion to main gear so I will do that this coming week.
              Did another spool up while holding in my hand above my head with blades on. Hugh improvement and there appears to be many positions where there is hardly any vibrations. I was keen on putting an Oxy 4 in this fuse and scraping the mechanics it came with. At this point my opinion is the main frame and tail boom are pretty solid. This thing needs a few new upgrades especially a new rotor head. Also believe the one piece main bearing block I installed a couple of days ago is responsible for eliminating most of the vibration and shaking issue. If a guy is willing to do that I think the supplied mechanics is a solid basis to begin. Not much point in buying to replace the mechanic, just buy a fuse and put in your own mech.
              Good talking with you on the phone. Have you in my contacts so you may be getting a text from time to time. Take care.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Bulldog View Post

                Hey, hope you are over the virus and feeling better. Yes I do remember about the blade balancing. Watched a couple of vids and tried their methods and honestly it was a big PITA. These blades are not flat on one side so they roll all over the place. So I set out to find a set where the seller says they are balanced with regard to weight and CG. What I found was kind of pricey but no others made any statement about that. Found Ridgerunners post a minute after I paid for these on Ebay. Good info from him so I will get a set of the Tarots next.
                Did put in a new main rotor shaft and checked for straightness. New Tarot rotor head so did not check feathering shaft, assumed it was OK since this heli has not even been airborne yet. I did not check tail rotor shaft or meshing of the pinion to main gear so I will do that this coming week.
                Did another spool up while holding in my hand above my head with blades on. Hugh improvement and there appears to be many positions where there is hardly any vibrations. I was keen on putting an Oxy 4 in this fuse and scraping the mechanics it came with. At this point my opinion is the main frame and tail boom are pretty solid. This thing needs a few new upgrades especially a new rotor head. Also believe the one piece main bearing block I installed a couple of days ago is responsible for eliminating most of the vibration and shaking issue. If a guy is willing to do that I think the supplied mechanics is a solid basis to begin. Not much point in buying to replace the mechanic, just buy a fuse and put in your own mech.
                Good talking with you on the phone. Have you in my contacts so you may be getting a text from time to time. Take care.
                Thank you for asking, yes I made it through it, it was a battle, I was on my knees a few times that's for sure. Glad you decided to give those mechanics a try, just get the bugs worked out of it and you will have a good flyer I'm sure, I hate to see MRC sell these helis or advertise them as ready to go when we all know there is no such thing, a plane is one thing but helicopters are a balance of parts trying to work together at the same time, all it takes is one part not put together right or unbalanced and you got trouble, so keep at it and buying a good set of balanced blades should help too.,

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                • Does anyone know if the stock motor on these RS helis can handle 6s lipos? I know the esc is 4s but I have a hobbywing V3 50amp esc from my old 470 which used a 6s and I'm wondering if I put that on in place of the stock esc if the stock motor will take a 6s? I know the originals came with a 6s esc but did they also change the motor to only handle 4s?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by bpjacobsen View Post
                    Does anyone know if the stock motor on these RS helis can handle 6s lipos? I know the esc is 4s but I have a hobbywing V3 50amp esc from my old 470 which used a 6s and I'm wondering if I put that on in place of the stock esc if the stock motor will take a 6s? I know the originals came with a 6s esc but did they also change the motor to only handle 4s?
                    GARTT HF450L-1800KV 600W 6S 22.2V 3.17mm Shaft Brushless Motor for Align T-Rex 450 RC Helicopter Specifications: Motor KV: 1800KV RPM/V Motor Resistance (RM): 0.0648 Ω Idle Current (Io/10V): 1.3A/10V Max Continuous Current: 28A Max Continuous Power: 600W Weight: ≈90g/3.17oz Configuration: 9N6P LiPo Cell: 4S to 6S Motor Diameter: 30.2mm/1.19in Motor Body Length: 35mm/1.38in Overall Shaft Length: 51mm/2.01in Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm/0.12in Bolt holes spacing: 16mm/0.63in Bolt thread: M2.5×6/M3×6 Motor Timing: 5 deg Drive Frequency: 8 kHz

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Bulldog View Post

                      GARTT HF450L-1800KV 600W 6S 22.2V 3.17mm Shaft Brushless Motor for Align T-Rex 450 RC Helicopter Specifications: Motor KV: 1800KV RPM/V Motor Resistance (RM): 0.0648 Ω Idle Current (Io/10V): 1.3A/10V Max Continuous Current: 28A Max Continuous Power: 600W Weight: ≈90g/3.17oz Configuration: 9N6P LiPo Cell: 4S to 6S Motor Diameter: 30.2mm/1.19in Motor Body Length: 35mm/1.38in Overall Shaft Length: 51mm/2.01in Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm/0.12in Bolt holes spacing: 16mm/0.63in Bolt thread: M2.5×6/M3×6 Motor Timing: 5 deg Drive Frequency: 8 kHz
                      So that is the specs of the stock motor I assume?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by bpjacobsen View Post
                        Does anyone know if the stock motor on these RS helis can handle 6s lipos? I know the esc is 4s but I have a hobbywing V3 50amp esc from my old 470 which used a 6s and I'm wondering if I put that on in place of the stock esc if the stock motor will take a 6s? I know the originals came with a 6s esc but did they also change the motor to only handle 4s?
                        Yes, the motor is rated for 6S. The ESC was the only limitation,

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                        • Originally posted by bpjacobsen View Post

                          So that is the specs of the stock motor I assume?
                          Those are the specs.

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                          • So I just received the Airwolf model and I noticed that the belt is nice and snug with no play, but on this one, the A350, there is quite a bit of play. Does anyone know how to adjust the belt tension on this? The manual has no info on this.

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                            • Originally posted by bpjacobsen View Post
                              So I just received the Airwolf model and I noticed that the belt is nice and snug with no play, but on this one, the A350, there is quite a bit of play. Does anyone know how to adjust the belt tension on this? The manual has no info on this.
                              First expose the tail rotor assembly by removing the tail fins at the end of the boom. I am assuming that model has the same type of tail removal as the AS350. If you can get to the screws that form the compression on that assembly, loosen and slide the assembly back a bit on the round boom and that will tighten the belt. If after moving it back the belt still has too much slack, the mechanic will probably have to be removed so you can get to the other end of that round boom. You will find a square plastic piece that the boom fits into. Loosen the small bolts around it until you can move the round boom in and out. Slide that boom out a bit until you have the belt tensioned and then retighten. IOW the belt can be tensioned at either end of the round boom.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Bulldog View Post

                                First expose the tail rotor assembly by removing the tail fins at the end of the boom. I am assuming that model has the same type of tail removal as the AS350. If you can get to the screws that form the compression on that assembly, loosen and slide the assembly back a bit on the round boom and that will tighten the belt. If after moving it back the belt still has too much slack, the mechanic will probably have to be removed so you can get to the other end of that round boom. You will find a square plastic piece that the boom fits into. Loosen the small bolts around it until you can move the round boom in and out. Slide that boom out a bit until you have the belt tensioned and then retighten. IOW the belt can be tensioned at either end of the round boom.
                                I came to realize, the play seems to be in the head, not so much the belt. I did take the mechanics out today and pulled the tail end back a little but the belt seems tight enough. the looseness seems more tied to the head itself but not sure. it's flying fine otherwise.

                                Comment


                                • By the way, going back to my previous issues with the tail blowing out and the teter totter effect. So I have upgraded to 6s and for the most part, after using a swash leveler and getting blade tracking pretty close to zero, it flies much better with very little rocking. However, when I punch hard, it still blows out the tail. I tried setting the tail gain to 70 but no difference. I believe the standard is around 60 for tail gain? Any other suggestions. I really don't think this is a mechnical issue. the slider is fine. It's just that the tail is not able to hold when punching hard. But I'm fine with it as is since this is scale and I don't really plan to kick it into 3d mode much. I more or less just enjoy the scale/sport flying. But I would be interested in knowing what might be causing the blow out when punching.

                                  Comment


                                  • Originally posted by bpjacobsen View Post
                                    By the way, going back to my previous issues with the tail blowing out and the teter totter effect. So I have upgraded to 6s and for the most part, after using a swash leveler and getting blade tracking pretty close to zero, it flies much better with very little rocking. However, when I punch hard, it still blows out the tail. I tried setting the tail gain to 70 but no difference. I believe the standard is around 60 for tail gain? Any other suggestions. I really don't think this is a mechnical issue. the slider is fine. It's just that the tail is not able to hold when punching hard. But I'm fine with it as is since this is scale and I don't really plan to kick it into 3d mode much. I more or less just enjoy the scale/sport flying. But I would be interested in knowing what might be causing the blow out when punching.
                                    I'm having the same issue as well. I'm tired of constantly messing with this. I have installed a 3700KV motor running 3S to see if I can get a different response. I think Ill put the 1800KV back in and order a 6S ESC to see how that works. Ive tried every gyro setting on the BeastX. I have the gyro channel on a Pot on the TX16s so I can adjust it easily while tuning.

                                    Comment


                                    • Not sure about the spectrum beast X but the Microbeast plus has a setting you can get to using the Bluetooth adapter that lets you set the CW or CCW of the main head. This helps with also with parameter F Torque precompensation.

                                      I had an issue with tail blow out on punch outs and when I got the Bluetooth adapter I found it was in CCW on a CW 450. Switched it and it made all the difference.
                                      but make sure on F Torque precompensation that you have it set correctly compared to what you set in Setup F Rudder Direction.

                                      Gravy

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by bpjacobsen View Post
                                        By the way, going back to my previous issues with the tail blowing out and the teter totter effect. So I have upgraded to 6s and for the most part, after using a swash leveler and getting blade tracking pretty close to zero, it flies much better with very little rocking. However, when I punch hard, it still blows out the tail. I tried setting the tail gain to 70 but no difference. I believe the standard is around 60 for tail gain? Any other suggestions. I really don't think this is a mechnical issue. the slider is fine. It's just that the tail is not able to hold when punching hard. But I'm fine with it as is since this is scale and I don't really plan to kick it into 3d mode much. I more or less just enjoy the scale/sport flying. But I would be interested in knowing what might be causing the blow out when punching.
                                        Have you tried replacing that s@@t they have on it for tail rotor blades? Replaced mine with a set of 62 mm Zeals. Much better tail rotor authority now.

                                        Comment


                                        • Originally posted by Bulldog View Post

                                          Have you tried replacing that s@@t they have on it for tail rotor blades? Replaced mine with a set of 62 mm Zeals. Much better tail rotor authority now.
                                          hard to believe CF tail blades would make that much a difference but I went ahead and orders some. Not the Zeals but something that would be better than stock.

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