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  • Originally posted by Elbee View Post

    RM, Ah, it's elementary. The performance of ABS at lower print temps, maybe? Best, LB
    Its +10°c on pla, and minus 10°c against abs. So its kinda a good middle ground, so you get better heat resistance than with pla without the warp tendency of ABS

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    • Shes growing little more every day

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      • Hey 3DP Guys and Dolls, I am test printing instrument panel bits for my Freewing F-18C and the detail is high, though small. I am experiencing some 'hair-like' threads from the transitions between points. Question: Is this from the higher detail or is it possibly time to change out the 'nozzle'? Best, LB
        Captain: Got any ideas?
        F/O: Actually not.
        — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

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        • A lot of times, I hear the advice of "increase retraction" with stringing. But yes, small detail usually benefits from small nozzles.

          Otherwise you can fake a 0.3mm nozzle using the0.4mm one. I'll share my Slic3r settings tonight to show what I mean

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          • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
            A lot of times, I hear the advice of "increase retraction" with stringing. But yes, small detail usually benefits from small nozzles. Otherwise you can fake a 0.3mm nozzle using the0.4mm one. I'll share my Slic3r settings tonight to show what I mean
            DD, U B AHSUM! Also, kwik shot of the panel, slow but too much fun. Thanks, LB
            Click image for larger version

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            Captain: Got any ideas?
            F/O: Actually not.
            — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

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            • I have been shopping around for a printer, but there are so many to choose from out there. I have no idea which one to go with. Any suggestions for a printer under $1000?

              Thanks

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              • Originally posted by Bogietrim View Post
                I have been shopping around for a printer, but there are so many to choose from out there. I have no idea which one to go with. Any suggestions for a printer under $1000?Thanks
                BT, you will receive many suggestions, I am certain, though I shopped around as well and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3 3D Printer by Josef Prusa a year ago. The mfr is Czech and the printer is great with a kit price of $749 USD plus shipping which was $75 I think. There is now a Mk3S that DirtyDee also bought, though he has a Mk2S as well. I bought the kit version just so I would know what to look for if there ever any issues, and I have had none. I use Hatch Box PLA and ABS and have zero problems. The slicer program from Prusa is also very good. Check these out if you want. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ I am not promoting these, nor do I have any affiliation with Prusa. I simply thought these printers were the best with my limited knowledge at the time and have 'no regrets' with the purchases. I have built lots of stuff for my models. You are truly limited only by your imagination with any printer. Best, LB
                Captain: Got any ideas?
                F/O: Actually not.
                — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Elbee View Post

                  BT, you will receive many suggestions, I am certain, though I shopped around as well and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3 3D Printer by Josef Prusa a year ago. The mfr is Czech and the printer is great with a kit price of $749 USD plus shipping which was $75 I think. There is now a Mk3S that DirtyDee also bought, though he has a Mk2S as well. I bought the kit version just so I would know what to look for if there ever any issues, and I have had none. I use Hatch Box PLA and ABS and have zero problems. The slicer program from Prusa is also very good. Check these out if you want. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ I am not promoting these, nor do I have any affiliation with Prusa. I simply thought these printers were the best with my limited knowledge at the time and have 'no regrets' with the purchases. I have built lots of stuff for my models. You are truly limited only by your imagination with any printer. Best, LB
                  Thanks for the info! Yes, I know there are many good choices out there, but I am looking for testimonials from guys like you that are using them for exactly what I plan to do. I will look at this one for sure. I am thinking that I will print readily available items first, but have a few ideas that I would like to try and make myself.

                  Thanks again!

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                  • I own 2 mk2s prusa. They are workhorses. I printed this airliner with them

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                    • Another vote for the Prusa. I have the MK3 and love it!
                      Pat

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                      • Hey Gang, Here is the STL file for the Freewing F-18C Front Instrument Panels. Note that I scaled this to a width that worked at roughly 1/11.5th scale. The OEM width is wider. As a result, I spaced the individual instruments to 'look good' and had to 'cut' the bottom of the Bottom MFD and eliminate the RH gauge package & LH Engines Monitor Station, etc. Point is, it looks good and fits great, so enjoy and let me know if you have any issues with the STL file. Best as always, LB

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                        Captain: Got any ideas?
                        F/O: Actually not.
                        — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

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                        • Awesome work Elbee! I've also added the link to the Support section of the F-18 product pages. Thank you!

                          https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...np#support-tab


                          Aros, You are welcome, Sir. Best, LB
                          My YouTube RC videos:
                          https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZ..._bdGEJBmtV7YUw

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                          • Im on a A5s AGAurora, for the past 5 months only 3 failed prints. Very happy with this guy. these last few prints are with petg, learning more with it and i left a printed part in my car as a test for the past 3 weeks. No heat fatigue. Click image for larger version

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                            • Nice to hear rifleman, I'm actually starting to look into a larger Printer for larger projects, and this is one of the contenders.

                              Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle

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                              • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
                                Nice to hear rifleman, I'm actually starting to look into a larger Printer for larger projects, and this is one of the contenders. Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle
                                DD, Many thanks, Sir. I will give these a try. Best, LB
                                Captain: Got any ideas?
                                F/O: Actually not.
                                — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

                                Comment


                                • If folks haven't seen this, a designer has made an L-39 and a HE-162 for 120mm EDFs. He also has designed working 3D printable 120mm EDFs that you can use with these, and have good thrust and flight times.

                                  I bought the L-39 files and I am starting to print in ABS. They are similar to the 3DLab designs, and are geared for 1-wall PETG/PLA printing.

                                  He even designed simple drum brakes that use a servo and O-rings for these planes.

                                  https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...for-120-mm-edf
                                  https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...2-rc-jet-model

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                                  • Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
                                    He even designed simple drum brakes that use a servo and O-rings for these planes.
                                    DD, You are a "Mad Man", Sir. I love it. I have been working on 3DP brakes for a couple months now, using a set of very old aluminum discs and phenolic half circles with a rounded brass rectangle as the actuator as the starting point. Your picture is the same principle only scaled up with plastic half circles and 'o-rings' versus the phenolic half circles only. Much simpler for sure and probably more effective. The issue at smaller scales is still the method to actuate the brakes without adding more complexity. I will 'endeavor to persevere' and will soon have this figured out. Any ideas by other modelers on a simple actuating method or design would be appreciated. I think we would all like a truly simple braking system that can be customized AND 3DP scaled to any wheel manufacturers' product. Best, LB
                                    Captain: Got any ideas?
                                    F/O: Actually not.
                                    — Captain Chesley B 'Sully' Sullenberger III and F/O Jeff Skiles—

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                                    • I seen it just been going back and forth on rather or not i want to try it. With petg i might be game for it!

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                                      • Go bro! It would look too cool. Doing OK?

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                                        • So so just a rough weekend already. Football night to cross country morning traveling half the state with 2 hours sleep in between.

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