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Official 3DP Thread

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  • Aros
    started a topic Official 3DP Thread

    Official 3DP Thread

    3DP is definitely taking the hobby by storm. There are plenty of questions out there surrounding the process, quality printers, and so forth. Please feel free to ask your questions or offer your experience and any information regarding 3DP here!

  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
    Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle
    DD, Works like a charm, my friend. Brilliant, Sir. Tango Yuma. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Petg wing worked great! Really happy with my F86 now

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    So so just a rough weekend already. Football night to cross country morning traveling half the state with 2 hours sleep in between.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hardway
    replied
    Go bro! It would look too cool. Doing OK?

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    I seen it just been going back and forth on rather or not i want to try it. With petg i might be game for it!

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
    He even designed simple drum brakes that use a servo and O-rings for these planes.
    DD, You are a "Mad Man", Sir. I love it. I have been working on 3DP brakes for a couple months now, using a set of very old aluminum discs and phenolic half circles with a rounded brass rectangle as the actuator as the starting point. Your picture is the same principle only scaled up with plastic half circles and 'o-rings' versus the phenolic half circles only. Much simpler for sure and probably more effective. The issue at smaller scales is still the method to actuate the brakes without adding more complexity. I will 'endeavor to persevere' and will soon have this figured out. Any ideas by other modelers on a simple actuating method or design would be appreciated. I think we would all like a truly simple braking system that can be customized AND 3DP scaled to any wheel manufacturers' product. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Dirty Dee
    replied
    If folks haven't seen this, a designer has made an L-39 and a HE-162 for 120mm EDFs. He also has designed working 3D printable 120mm EDFs that you can use with these, and have good thrust and flight times.

    I bought the L-39 files and I am starting to print in ABS. They are similar to the 3DLab designs, and are geared for 1-wall PETG/PLA printing.

    He even designed simple drum brakes that use a servo and O-rings for these planes.

    https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...for-120-mm-edf
    https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vari...2-rc-jet-model

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
    Nice to hear rifleman, I'm actually starting to look into a larger Printer for larger projects, and this is one of the contenders. Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle
    DD, Many thanks, Sir. I will give these a try. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Dirty Dee
    replied
    Nice to hear rifleman, I'm actually starting to look into a larger Printer for larger projects, and this is one of the contenders.

    Also Elbee here are those settings I was talking about for the "fake" 0.3mm nozzle

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Im on a A5s AGAurora, for the past 5 months only 3 failed prints. Very happy with this guy. these last few prints are with petg, learning more with it and i left a printed part in my car as a test for the past 3 weeks. No heat fatigue. Click image for larger version

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  • Aros
    replied
    Awesome work Elbee! I've also added the link to the Support section of the F-18 product pages. Thank you!

    https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...np#support-tab


    Aros, You are welcome, Sir. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied

    Hey Gang, Here is the STL file for the Freewing F-18C Front Instrument Panels. Note that I scaled this to a width that worked at roughly 1/11.5th scale. The OEM width is wider. As a result, I spaced the individual instruments to 'look good' and had to 'cut' the bottom of the Bottom MFD and eliminate the RH gauge package & LH Engines Monitor Station, etc. Point is, it looks good and fits great, so enjoy and let me know if you have any issues with the STL file. Best as always, LB

    [ATTACH]n213380[/ATTACH]

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  • crxmanpat
    replied
    Another vote for the Prusa. I have the MK3 and love it!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dirty Dee
    replied
    I own 2 mk2s prusa. They are workhorses. I printed this airliner with them

    Leave a comment:


  • Bogietrim
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee View Post

    BT, you will receive many suggestions, I am certain, though I shopped around as well and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3 3D Printer by Josef Prusa a year ago. The mfr is Czech and the printer is great with a kit price of $749 USD plus shipping which was $75 I think. There is now a Mk3S that DirtyDee also bought, though he has a Mk2S as well. I bought the kit version just so I would know what to look for if there ever any issues, and I have had none. I use Hatch Box PLA and ABS and have zero problems. The slicer program from Prusa is also very good. Check these out if you want. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ I am not promoting these, nor do I have any affiliation with Prusa. I simply thought these printers were the best with my limited knowledge at the time and have 'no regrets' with the purchases. I have built lots of stuff for my models. You are truly limited only by your imagination with any printer. Best, LB
    Thanks for the info! Yes, I know there are many good choices out there, but I am looking for testimonials from guys like you that are using them for exactly what I plan to do. I will look at this one for sure. I am thinking that I will print readily available items first, but have a few ideas that I would like to try and make myself.

    Thanks again!

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Bogietrim View Post
    I have been shopping around for a printer, but there are so many to choose from out there. I have no idea which one to go with. Any suggestions for a printer under $1000?Thanks
    BT, you will receive many suggestions, I am certain, though I shopped around as well and bought the Prusa i3 Mk3 3D Printer by Josef Prusa a year ago. The mfr is Czech and the printer is great with a kit price of $749 USD plus shipping which was $75 I think. There is now a Mk3S that DirtyDee also bought, though he has a Mk2S as well. I bought the kit version just so I would know what to look for if there ever any issues, and I have had none. I use Hatch Box PLA and ABS and have zero problems. The slicer program from Prusa is also very good. Check these out if you want. https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ I am not promoting these, nor do I have any affiliation with Prusa. I simply thought these printers were the best with my limited knowledge at the time and have 'no regrets' with the purchases. I have built lots of stuff for my models. You are truly limited only by your imagination with any printer. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Bogietrim
    replied
    I have been shopping around for a printer, but there are so many to choose from out there. I have no idea which one to go with. Any suggestions for a printer under $1000?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Dirty Dee View Post
    A lot of times, I hear the advice of "increase retraction" with stringing. But yes, small detail usually benefits from small nozzles. Otherwise you can fake a 0.3mm nozzle using the0.4mm one. I'll share my Slic3r settings tonight to show what I mean
    DD, U B AHSUM! Also, kwik shot of the panel, slow but too much fun. Thanks, LB
    Click image for larger version

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  • Dirty Dee
    replied
    A lot of times, I hear the advice of "increase retraction" with stringing. But yes, small detail usually benefits from small nozzles.

    Otherwise you can fake a 0.3mm nozzle using the0.4mm one. I'll share my Slic3r settings tonight to show what I mean

    Leave a comment:

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