PZ 480 motor rebuild questions

[Jody Shaneyfelt]

Hi guy's

I have four Park Zone 480 motors that have bent prop shafts. I've got new shafts for them, but I'm running into some problems hopefully you can help me with..
Two of them have the little grub screws in the front of the motor can, and two have the holes for them but aren't drilled and threaded and the shaft looks to be pressed in...
The motor cans on the two with the grub screw holes have the threads in those holes stripped.
Is there a way to re-thread these holes without messing them up? and also whats the best way to get the old shafts out and the new ones installed on the ones that seem to be pressed in without damaging the cans?
The back section of one of the motors is probably junk because it is cracked where the motor mount screws into the back of the motor. If there's a way to fix that I'd appreciate any help. can't really afford to drop $45 for new motors if I can fix the ones I have...
Thanks guy's

[fhhuber]

RE: PZ 480 motor rebuild questions

Generally I recommend going to other brand replacements.
You can find equivalent motors at 1/4 the price of the E-flite. This includes motors from Dynam, Scorpion, Turnigy, Cheetah and several other brands.

I won't point you to other places to buy due to this forum being run by an online dealer.

MotionRC should have something lower priced that will directly replace your ParkZone motors though.

[Konrad]

RE: PZ 480 motor rebuild questions

As has been mentioned there are a plethora of motor brands that would make suitable replacements. Luckily there are only about a dozen OEMs for Chinese made outrunner motors. And of these 3 or 4 of them make 80% of the brands. (I wish MotionRC would publish the motor constants for the motors they carry. Can size really tells us next to nothing about the electrical characteristics of the motor.)

Back to your questions It doesn’t look like there is much material left on the can cover (bell end) to re-tap the stripped grub screw holes. (Sometime one can change to an SAE thread if wall thickness is an issue. In this case it looks like this isn’t a viable option). You probably need to drill and tap a new set of threaded holes for the grub screws. You need to use a drill press and ‘V’ blocks to do this properly.

Now in all probability the use of Loctite 609 will offer a high enough bond to the bell end and shaft to resist the shear loads, that grub screws are not needed. You will need heat to break this bond should you want to replace the shaft later down the road.

I suspect the threads were damaged as you tried to remove the grub screws. These are often held with high strength thread locking compounds. The remove these grub screws it is often best to use heat to break down these compounds. The best way I’ve found is to heat a sacrificial allen wrench in a flame until the tip is a dull red. Then insert it into the grub screw. You are trying to transfer the heat in the allen wrench into the grub screw. The heated grub screw should degrade the thread locking compound. This takes about a minute. Re-move the allen wrench and let the motor (grub screw) cool down to room temperature (about 5 minutes). Then with a proper fitting and hardened allen wrench remove the grub screw. Odds are the aluminum threads in the bell end will be fine.

To remove the bent shaft it is best to support the bell at the shaft mounting boss in an anvil. And then press out the shaft with drift and anvil, use a press not a hammer.

Caution:
Do not heat the magnets as they can demagnetize, Do not heat the windings as the epoxy insulation of the wire can break down.

All the best,
Konrad

[guapoman2000]

RE: PZ 480 motor rebuild questions

Hi guy's

I have four Park Zone 480 motors that have bent prop shafts. I've got new shafts for them, but I'm running into some problems hopefully you can help me with..
Two of them have the little grub screws in the front of the motor can, and two have the holes for them but aren't drilled and threaded and the shaft looks to be pressed in...
The motor cans on the two with the grub screw holes have the threads in those holes stripped.
Is there a way to re-thread these holes without messing them up? and also whats the best way to get the old shafts out and the new ones installed on the ones that seem to be pressed in without damaging the cans?
The back section of one of the motors is probably junk because it is cracked where the motor mount screws into the back of the motor. If there's a way to fix that I'd appreciate any help. can't really afford to drop $45 for new motors if I can fix the ones I have...
Thanks guy's

Hello,

I have many of these motors and I have acquired most of them via eBay and other web sites. I believe that these motors are the best for park flyer models and provide countless RC flying as they are proven in many many Park Zone park flyer models, especially the thousands of T-28 Trojan models.

There are two variations of this motor. One is the older version that came in the early versions of the T-28 Trojan models with the plastic frontal bell. The other is the newer one that has the ALL METAL frontal and rear bell housing. I am not sure which you have since you didn't specify, however, I am providing a Video that someone shared up on YouTube for your reference and perhaps this might help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=430I5n3FaBo

[Konrad]

RE: PZ 480 motor rebuild questions

Looks like it was the first time the guy has had an outrunner apart.

If they are plastic bell ends and collars DON'T use loctite! Loctite will destroy the plasticizer making the plastic very brittle.