Is epo glue epoxy? I am using the king boxer epo glue that came with my Freewing f-8. Also, does anyone know how long I should wait to fly after glueing?
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Like was said in the other thread that you asked this question.......... You can tell if a glue is epoxy if it has 2 components that you mix together. There is no such thing as “epo glue”. There are glues for epo foam and that can be contact type glue which is what usually comes with plane kits, epoxy, foam safe CA glue, FoamTac. People also use Gorilla glue. How long to wait depends on the type of glue. If you’re going to use the stuff that comes with the plane, that usually sets up within an hr but doesn’t cure properly for about a day.
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Quick note on Gorilla Glue. I use the "Clear" Gorilla Glue which does not foam; however, for it to cure properly you should spritz some water on one side or the other of parts to be glued. Gorilla glue is a polyurethane adhesive and is activated best with moisture, I understand. I have always allowed overnight for full cure with zero failures. Best, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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RC Guy Elbee xviper We've been thinking about bringing in larger tubes of that adhesive, and similar formulations that are foam-safe. Do any of you have any specific requests or feedback before I bottle these up? For the thinner formulation, I like the idea of an old-school "liquid cement-style" applicator brush in a bottle. For the thicker formulation, I think a traditional tube is best.
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Originally posted by Alpha View PostRC Guy Elbee xviper We've been thinking about bringing in larger tubes of that adhesive, and similar formulations that are foam-safe. Do any of you have any specific requests or feedback before I bottle these up? For the thinner formulation, I like the idea of an old-school "liquid cement-style" applicator brush in a bottle. For the thicker formulation, I think a traditional tube is best.Marc flies FW & FL: AL37, MiG-29, T45,F4, A4, A10, F104 70 and 90, P38, Dauntless SBD, Corsair, B17, B24, B26 & P61, Lipp.P19, ME262, Komets, Vampire, SeaVixen, FMS Tigercat, FOX Glider & Radian XL.
Rabid Models foamies, including my 8' B17 & 9' B36... and my Mud Ducks! www.rabidmodels.com
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Hands down, epoxy is the best glue invented. It cures without air; moisture or special solvent or acceleration treatment. It's a chemical reaction like cement, not an air dried chemical. Foam Tac is good for many things but nothing beats the strength of epoxy. It's also "foam safe". The diligence is mixing it properly and accurately. Most folks can't be bothered to be accurate and then it doesn't work. Some people are offended by the stink of epoxies which sometimes smell like dog pee while curing. Some people are allergic! CA is good too if it doesn't eat foam. There are many industrial adhesives that most of us will never see or be able to buy due to their controlled existence. NASA has adhesives that will bond things probably for 100 years!....Stronger than engineering and nature!
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Originally posted by Alpha View PostRC Guy Elbee xviper We've been thinking about bringing in larger tubes of that adhesive, and similar formulations that are foam-safe. Do any of you have any specific requests or feedback before I bottle these up? For the thinner formulation, I like the idea of an old-school "liquid cement-style" applicator brush in a bottle. For the thicker formulation, I think a traditional tube is best.I solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Alpha, as long as there is FoamTac, I really don't use the tubed glue that comes with the models. I use it once in a while but since I have a bag of the stuff (saved from model kits), I don't really plan on buying any in the foreseeable future.
You are very good to respond to market demand as you do.
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