Callie Graphics

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Control rod connections

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  • Control rod connections

    For most models, a clevis at the servo and/or control horn is more than adequate - the little bit of slop isn't usually much of a problem for general flight. But, for a model like the 540 Edge, or my VH SabreX, tight controls really improve things. I was having issues, when I went vertical, keeping the model in a stable position, and at high speeds the stabilizer (ET Guardian) could break into oscillation. I replaced all clevises with ball links and Quik Links, and what a difference it makes. I'll be examining my warbirds next, as they need tighter controls, too.

  • #2
    Any wear or slop in a control linkage will make trimming very difficult and maybe impossible to achieve. But more importantly wear or badly fitting control links can create control surface flutter and that will destroy a model so fast you won't believe it. Flutter starts with a faint buzzing sound and if left unchecked the control surface will detach from the model, and the model will crash.

    Checking the control linkages should be part of the preflight check.

    Martin.

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    • #3
      Yes, but even a new, unworn clevis will have some play, just from clearances required for assembly to the horn; usually not enough to matter. But any play in a model built for 3D or speed can be too much. A ball link has zero clearance play, so can really improve such a model.

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