4 bladed Prop

[Bolter18]

I just bought Dynam P47-D Thunderbolt with Gyro 1220mm (48") Wingspan - RTF. Does anyone know if there is a 4 bladed prop for it? Kinda new to this but looking forward to the challenge. Thanks.

[OV10]

Was gonna make some suggestions but then you mentioned "kinda new to this" and the plane is a RTF.
If you are a new/novice pilot then worrying about power changes is the last thing you need on your plate now let alone starting off with a warbird.
If I made a wrong assumption, I can provide some guidance on power mods(props fall into that).
Welcome to the Squawk;)
Best regards,

[fhhuber]

I'd have to look up the motor and ESC used in that model, but there is a 4 blade by Dynam that might be appropriate.

There are several 4 blade props out that would be candidates, but if the one by Dynam for one of the models in that series works, then that would be the prop to use (because of cost as one major reason, decent near-scale appearance for another.)

I modified my Dynam P-51 from this series for this prop (actually for an APC 4-blade, but this one is better for scale appearance) by putting in the motor intended for the Dynam Me-109.

**********************

Just looked it up.

Same motor and prop in the P-47 as the Me-109, so the 4-blade fits. However you lose useful thrust and max airspeed which might make it bad to move to the 4 blade.

DYP-1026S 10.5*8*4

[RRHandy]

Thou out of stock right now, they come in stock and this is what I use on the Dynam Corsair and P-47 Per TiredIron.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Unique-RC-m...19.m1438.l2649

[OV10]

Thou out of stock right now, they come in stock and this is what I use on the Dynam Corsair and P-47 Per TiredIron.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Unique-RC-m...19.m1438.l2649

The same guillotine that sliced the Rx out of the A-10's backbone :Scared:LOL

[themudduck]

Eh, as Charlie pointed out in the beginning, this opens up a big can of worms. You can stick a big 4-blade prop on that plane and it will look great. But... then you'll need a bigger ESC because of the higher current draw. And drawing more amps means you'll need a bigger battery (or it will fly for a much shorter time). The bigger battery will make the plane heavier. And like fhhuber said, the 4-blade prop will be putting out less thrust using the original motor (and will put a bigger load on the motor), so you'll need a bigger motor if you want the performance boost you're expecting- which means an even bigger ESC and battery!

Unless you bolt on a smaller 4-blade prop, and what's the point of that!

If you install a bigger ESC and battery and motor to drive that big 4-blade prop, your model will have more power. It will be heavier and will fly a lot faster, and you may have to deal with some more torque-issues. So that means it will definitely be more of a handful and all Charlie was saying is that this kind of setup can be challenging for a pilot especially if you don't have a lot of experience. Personally, I like planes like that because it seems more realistic to have to really pay attention and fly it like the beast it is. My "Iron Ass" P51 has a big 4-blade prop and the motor upgrade, I have to takeoff holding a LOT of right rudder all the way into the air, and when I'm coming in with the flaps down I need more than 1/2 throttle just to keep it in the air. Its fun!

[fhhuber]

Replacing a 13X7X3 with a 13X6X4 is a significant increase in load on the motor.

Replacing with 10.5X8X4 is slightly lower load.

12X6X4 would be close to the same load as the OEM 3 blade that came with the PNP/RTF Dynam P-47. (variations in prop blade design being what will change the load vs the OEM prop)

If you maintain the same flight performance when adding a blade you increased the load on the motor. You can't see how many blades the prop has when the airplane is flying. So one option is to get the big 4-blade for display, but continue flying on the OEM prop. You can't fly on an actual scale diameter 4-blade prop because you'll be constantly chipping it on the runway.

[RRHandy]

All I can say Guys is, that is what I fly both with and use a 4s 3300ma battery and come down after 5min. at storage charge. All stock equipment, I can't say it any differently to the fact. :Straight-Face:

[Bolter18]

Ok...I'll stick with what I got then. I flew years ago. Things have changed so just trying to get back into the swing. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Here another question. Got the P47 together but i have a problem with the tail wheel . The set screw is striped and cant get the tail wheel to lock in. was looking at just getting a non steerable tail wheel and attach to the tail. What do you think?

[OV10]

Ok...I'll stick with what I got then. I flew years ago. Things have changed so just trying to get back into the swing. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Here another question. Got the P47 together but i have a problem with the tail wheel . The set screw is striped and cant get the tail wheel to lock in. was looking at just getting a non steerable tail wheel and attach to the tail. What do you think?

Personally I would remove the set screw and tap it the next size larger set screw. If you don't have metric taps then I would JB Weld or 5min epoxy the tail wheel stem in that collar.
If your gonna be doing this hobby you should get a metric tap/die set, try Harbor Freight for an inexpensive set that is a satisfactory tool for hobby usage and general home use.
Or if you want to splurge and get specific limited sizes try the individual taps on Motions Cutting and Reaming Tools

[Bolter18]

Personally I would remove the set screw and tap it the next size larger set screw. If you don't have metric taps then I would JB Weld or 5min epoxy the tail wheel stem in that collar.
If your gonna be doing this hobby you should get a metric tap/die set, try Harbor Freight for an inexpensive set that is a satisfactory tool for hobby usage and general home use.
Or if you want to splurge and get specific limited sizes try the individual taps on Motions Cutting and Reaming Tools

That was first thought was to Tap it if that not work try JB weld. Wasn't sure if that was a good ideal or not. I'll try that and go look for the sets you mention. Thanks OV10

[fhhuber]

When metric threads strip out, retap to SAE. When SAE strips threads, retap to metric. Smaller step up in diameter so you can do it twice as many times before the collar can't be used any more.

The real problem that comes up when doing a wheel collar or similar tapped hole in one side of a tube, you need a set of "bottoming taps" because the taper of normal taps will have the tap hit the other side of the tube before you have good threads.