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most jets have this problem landing on grass field nose gear bends

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  • most jets have this problem landing on grass field nose gear bends

    Aug 1st, 2018, 07:01 AM
    Here are some photos to get some ideas on my landing on the grass problem . the front gear bends and is coming off I must replace it . ,I had Luckily found this rock hobby F16 same design only the front gear wire is spring loaded , do you this this would help. any suggestions for a good fix for it other than this is I get the spring loaded gear in the photo
    Attached Files
    • Click image for larger version  Name:	f16 same as freewing spring inside.JPG Views:	1 Size:	15.9 KB ID:	144864
    • Click image for larger version  Name:	JET F16 WHEEL.jpg Views:	1 Size:	52.5 KB ID:	144865
    • Click image for larger version  Name:	jet gear.JPG Views:	1 Size:	24.9 KB ID:	144931
    • Click image for larger version  Name:	f16 rockhobby wire gear.jpg Views:	1 Size:	38.5 KB ID:	144932

  • #2
    mains down first, then nose wheel, flare flare flare...

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    • #3
      yeah man, at our field you have to flare and ease her down on the mains. My A-4 is on the third nose gear because of pilot error and rough grass.
      Meridian Aeromodelers, Meridian MS

      Comment


      • #4
        Yep always keep spare nose gear for all the jets.
        Always land with power on........I sure wish I would remember that:Angry:.

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        • #5
          Technique for power off (dead stick) and a heavy EDF is what I call "space shuttle."

          Come in a little bit fast and then bring the nose up to settle on the mains and hold the nose wheel off as long as possible.

          You don't need power... You do need to practice the technique at altitude so you know where the model stalls.
          FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.

          current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbs

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bbaumer View Post
            mains down first, then nose wheel, flare flare flare...
            Thank you ,, I always come in with power on a little to keep the nose up , however I believe the model I have with fixed landing gear is just made for hard surfaced runways .

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            • #7
              Originally posted by seaviper View Post
              yeah man, at our field you have to flare and ease her down on the mains. My A-4 is on the third nose gear because of pilot error and rough grass.
              Thank you

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by seaviper View Post
                yeah man, at our field you have to flare and ease her down on the mains. My A-4 is on the third nose gear because of pilot error and rough grass.
                yup that is what I do however I think the fixed gear is worse that retracks

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by fhhuber View Post
                  Technique for power off (dead stick) and a heavy EDF is what I call "space shuttle."

                  Come in a little bit fast and then bring the nose up to settle on the mains and hold the nose wheel off as long as possible.

                  You don't need power... You do need to practice the technique at altitude so you know where the model stalls.
                  thank you all the advice is good and helps

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by F22 View Post

                    Thank you ,, I always come in with power on a little to keep the nose up , however I believe the model I have with fixed landing gear is just made for hard surfaced runways .
                    Do you have anybody flying high performance props like a T-28 or P-38?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Valkpilot View Post

                      Do you have anybody flying high performance props like a T-28 or P-38?
                      the entire club has a T-28 or larger one they all fly easy

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have started using the following method for landing on and operating from a grass strip. Once the model is armed and with the throttle stick as low as possible, advance the throttle trim lever so the fan unit is running but not to move the model. Taxi out and fly as you would but even if you pull the throttle stick down to minimum there is still power on to help keep the plane flying just above the stall with the nose up. I haven't broke a nose leg all summer. Oops jinked it now

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Pete Watson View Post
                          I have started using the following method for landing on and operating from a grass strip. Once the model is armed and with the throttle stick as low as possible, advance the throttle trim lever so the fan unit is running but not to move the model. Taxi out and fly as you would but even if you pull the throttle stick down to minimum there is still power on to help keep the plane flying just above the stall with the nose up. I haven't broke a nose leg all summer. Oops jinked it now
                          Yep have also started doing this,very good recomendation.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Jhnybgd View Post

                            Yep have also started doing this,very good recomendation.
                            yes t e alpha landings help/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Pete Watson View Post
                              I have started using the following method for landing on and operating from a grass strip. Once the model is armed and with the throttle stick as low as possible, advance the throttle trim lever so the fan unit is running but not to move the model. Taxi out and fly as you would but even if you pull the throttle stick down to minimum there is still power on to help keep the plane flying just above the stall with the nose up. I haven't broke a nose leg all summer. Oops jinked it now
                              I do this as well but mine is set low to the point I doubt it would keep the plane flying. I did it so when going to "idle" it really was more of an idle instead of the fan sitting still in there causing a ton of drag. Maybe I should bump all mine up some more. :Thinking:

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                With the throttle stick to minimum I have around 8% power. This is enough to stop any drag from the fan unit and it will stop the dreaded stall to ground. Once you have flared and the nose leg is up the model will touch down on the mains every time. A controlled stall of ýou like. Once on the ground the grass will bring the modem to a stand still or controlled ta I spead with slight I crease of throttle. Not advisable on any hard surface though.

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  That's a fantastic idea!!! Kinda surprised that I haven't seen that technique talked about more. Makes perfect sense and I believe it's the same or close to the same concept of windmilling a prop.

                                  To the OP, try to keep as much weight off the nose gear as possible when running on grass. If you prefer flying a very nose heavy plane putting all of that battery weight on the gear isn't doing it any favors on rough surfaces.

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Another action I have taken is to balance the model on a CG rig as per the Manufacturers instructions and mark the batter point on the fuss side wall or battery tray. Then put the model on the floor with gear down. I then press down on the tail so the nose wheal is approx. 5mm of the floor and let go of the fuzz. If the nose drops hard move the battery towards the back of the battery bay. Repeat the process until you have achieved a steady drop of the nose. I have found that on 80/90mm fan models you will have moved the battery back approx. 20mm. Now put the model back on the CG rig, You will find the model will balance point is around 3mm back of the manufacturers CG position, most manufacturers have their CG too far forwards for safety anyway so no problem. Mark this battery position and stick with because you will benefit from two things:

                                    1, you will have less weight on the nose leg when on the ground. I notice while accelerating on take off the nose wheal at worse gently skips on the ground or within a few feet is off the ground on it own accord and on landing its easier to raise the nose of the model prior to landing thus landing on its mains and of course there is once again weight reduction on the nose leg once on the ground. You may need to add more expo on the elevator because on some models the elevator may become more sensitive due to the reward position.

                                    2, the second thing I notice was in flight and the reward CG meant that the EDF will not dip its nose in a turn.

                                    I have used this method on my EDF's and a PC21 which has a trike undercarriage with the same results. Hope this helps you all. I recently bought a lipo on the back of not having to buy spare nose legs a win win situation all round:Cool:

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Another action I have taken is to balance the model on a CG rig as per the Manufacturers instructions and mark the batter point on the fuss side wall or battery tray. Then put the model on the floor with gear down. I then press down on the tail so the nose wheal is approx. 5mm of the floor and let go of the fuzz. If the nose drops hard move the battery towards the back of the battery bay. Repeat the process until you have achieved a steady drop of the nose. I have found that on 80/90mm fan models you will have moved the battery back approx. 20mm. Now put the model back on the CG rig, You will find the model will balance point is around 3mm back of the manufacturers CG position, most manufacturers have their CG too far forwards for safety anyway so no problem. Mark this battery position and stick with because you will benefit from two things:

                                      1, you will have less weight on the nose leg when on the ground. I notice while accelerating on take off the nose wheal at worse gently skips on the ground or within a few feet is off the ground on it own accord and on landing its easier to raise the nose of the model prior to landing thus landing on its mains and of course there is once again weight reduction on the nose leg once on the ground. You may need to add more expo on the elevator because on some models the elevator may become more sensitive due to the reward position.

                                      2, the second thing I notice was in flight and the reward CG meant that the EDF will not dip its nose in a turn.

                                      I have used this method on my EDF's and a PC21 which has a trike undercarriage with the same results. Hope this helps you all. I recently bought a lipo on the back of not having to buy spare nose legs a win/win situation all round:Cool:

                                      Comment

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