Need Veteran Flyer help

[Hippie 64]

  I recently put anew motor in my Dynam Waco . I make sure that there is always good airflow over motors and ESC . To do that on this plane the cowl has a black radial motor plastic on it and it has to be trimmed so the motor fits thru it . 
  I took it out this evening and ran a battery thru it on a flight . Not hard but 3/4 throttle most of the time . I don't do stunts I'm a boring pilot. The motor got hot enough the the cone on the prop was very warm. Almost hot but can hold it n not burn . 
  Is this normal or have I missed or did something wrong? Never noticed this before. Any help and suggestions will greatly appreciated! 


Thanks Bryan 

[Lon]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

  I recently put anew motor in my Dynam Waco . I make sure that there is always good airflow over motors and ESC . To do that on this plane the cowl has a black radial motor plastic on it and it has to be trimmed so the motor fits thru it . 
  I took it out this evening and ran a battery thru it on a flight . Not hard but 3/4 throttle most of the time . I don't do stunts I'm a boring pilot. The motor got hot enough the the cone on the prop was very warm. Almost hot but can hold it n not burn . 
  Is this normal or have I missed or did something wrong? Never noticed this before. Any help and suggestions will greatly appreciated! 


Thanks Bryan 

Bryan,
I'm not a veteran pilot for sure. But, only time I've had that happen, is when I tried the FW Old Crow 2 blade prop on my FW Iron Ass. True, I was running it over half throttle most the time, but had never had the stock 4 blade setup in the same conditions get warm like it did with the 2 blade.  My thought was that I was working the motor a little hard for that setup. Had to try it. and that's why I'm sticking with the stock setup w/shim and 4 or 5s. It doesn't get warm then, even running it hard.

[Hippie 64]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

Hey Lon , everything is stock . The motor is on the spare parts page . I don't hop up or change these types of things . I feel they are that setup for a reason .




Bryan 

[WintrSol]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

Hey Lon , everything is stock . The motor is on the spare parts page . I don't hop up or change these types of things . I feel they are that setup for a reason .




Bryan 

Two words: Watt meter. One is essential for checking out electric power systems, because without one, you're just guessing. If the current and power are within limits for that motor, you need more air flowing; sometimes you can cut holes between the dummy cylinders in the plastic fake engine, and not mess up the scale looks. If the current OR power is near the limit for that motor, you need less prop.

[OV10]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

Hello Bryan,
I've got close to a hundred sorties on my Waco and everything is stock setup for power and when I am done with a 10 min romp using a 4000mAh bat  with average throttle usage of 75% the motor and ESC are just warm and the spinner is cold. I have to agree with WintrSol, definitely get a watt meter for troubleshooting of the power systems or when doing power upgrade mods. Now when I first got the Waco(before the maiden) it had a bad motor bearing and growled badly which in turn jacked up the current draw(MRC did warranty replacement). While I had the cowl off to put the new replacement motor in, I noticed that there was an air channel on the lower center of the fuselage which started right behind the plastic fake radial but there was no air holes in the radial at that area. I cut out the plastic web area between two cylinders which is right at the bottom of fake radial and directly in front of the opening to the air channel. If your problem isn't one of these two suggested areas I just pointed out then you got me stumped. Good luck on your investigation.
Best Regards,  

[Hippie 64]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

Hey guys thanks for all the input. 

The motor was a stock replacement for the one that came off while flying . They have changed the prop shaft now so you have to add on that adapter. What happens now is the smooth shaft that comes on the motor is turn back into the nose because the adapter shaft goes on other end of motor. 
Talked with Ryan and went thru the responses, we decided to go up again thinking maybe it was some kind of break in causing the temp rise . I always balance my props and the plastic on the cowl was trimmed and cut the day I got the plane . 
After the next flight I have a temperature gun and it showed 110 which is not back since it was 97 that day . Good then is it wasn't as hot as first run so its been fine since . It was probably just me being a wacko because I'm one who if it can happen to it will . That's me luck !!! 


Thanks pilots 
Bryan 

[PappaBear]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

The best advice is to stick with the recommended stock parts, this includes motors, ESCs, batteries and propellors. For example, increasing the size of the propellor will increase the current draw, which in turn could burn out the ESC. The power combinations suppled with the various models is what the manufacturer has found to be a good compromise that works. Any upgrades can be found in the upgrades list with the model. If no upgrades are listed, then non are recommended. If a model is upgraded to provide more power, this could over stress the model and cause an airframe failure in flight.

If you find the motor is getting hotter than it used to, check the shaft for damage, it may be bent from a nose over. Check the prop for damage also, a prop that is out of balance will create problems as well.

[Lon]

RE: Need Veteran Flyer help

Hey Lon , everything is stock . The motor is on the spare parts page . I don't hop up or change these types of things . I feel they are that setup for a reason .




Bryan 

Hey Hippie,  I understand. Personal preference. I feel there is upgrade tires and other items for a reason.