learning pilot seeking wisdom from the more experienced

[crashlander]

I've been flying beginner models for several months like the sportsman and the apprentice. Recently I purchased the 78'' t-28 and love it. I'm surprised how easy it is to fly, in my opinion it isn't much more difficult to fly than my apprentice. Recently I bought the 59'' fms p-47. Never flown a warbird before. It was a hell of a lot harder than I thought it would be. Pulled hard left while zipping down the runway, I didn't have enough rudder and should have aborted immediately, but I pulled up and forced it into the air. 20 seconds later it crashed into a nearby pond. Floats very well!! Got it out, everything seems to work except for motor or esc. Why was this so hard to fly?? I'm bored from the apprentice but after this flight, i'm considering more practice before trying the p 47 again or any other warbird for that matter. Also, I love the as3x in my t-28. Any advice on as3x receivers or gyros that are simple to set up. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks!!

[xviper]

Don't be fooled by the big T-28. It's a "*****cat". Big models tend to fly nicer than smaller ones. BTW, the T-28 is considered by some to be a "warbird". Try flying the smaller FMS T-28 and you many find it harder.
Additionally, the Sportman and Apprentice are considered "beginner" planes, so they were designed to be easily flown by beginners. Finally, all 3 are tricycle gear, which, on the most part tends to track much better than a "tail dragger". The P-47 is a true "warbird" AND a tail dragger AND a smaller plane, NOT necessarily designed for beginners. True war birds (especially smaller ones) can be very sensitive to stick inputs. They were, as in real life, meant to be very maneuverable, fast and precise handling. Many of these traits are transferred to the model. More attention need to be made towards dialing in "rates" and "expo" in the TX to make such planes more manageable and less twitchy. Also, consideration to technique must be given when flying these planes. Your hard left was likely due to the torque of the motor, combined with trying to get up to speed too quickly. You need to also (on a tail dragger) learn to use UP elevator to keep the tail on the ground so the steering tire can do its job better, then learn to let off the elevator as it begins to lift off the ground (when you don't need the rear wheel for ground steering and tracking). You need to steer with the tail wheel while on the ground but once the tail lifts, the rudder will only work effectively if there is sufficient airspeed for it to do the job. It's a delicate transition from one to the other. Take off too quickly and you won't have time to deal with it, along with the added torque roll.
Had you gotten the Eflite P-47 with the AS3X technology and "SAFE", you may have found it a bit easier to fly. Many people at my field has been unfortunately "surprised" when they've gotten bored with beginner planes and jumped into a warbird or a sport plane (don't be fooled into thinking that the "Sportsman" is a "sport plane" just because of the name.)

[WintrSol]

Just to clarify, the T-28 is a warbird trainer; while it has been used as a fighter, it is designed as an entry-level one for pilots making the transition from traditional trainers to actual fighter aircraft, so is a bit more docile. While smaller T-28 models are just a bit more twitchy than that big one, because they are just lighter, they all display the same basic flight characteristics.

BTW, a good model (if it is still available) for learning to fly tail-draggers is the Pandora in that configuration, beginning with high-wing, then going to low-wing form. Slow and easy to fly, it still has the take-off properties of a warbird, like hard P-factor turns.

[wrongroad]

G'day crashlander,
One thing I find that many pilots new to warbirds do, is, jam the throttle full open and then get caught by the 'sudden' pull to the left.
It is really a requirement to ease the throttle on and use as much of the runway as you can. Keeping right rudder on from the moment you open that throttle and as you speed up you will find that you need less rudder. It is a balancing act as you are also needing to use the elevator as well.
A bad mistake is to reef the model into the air before flying speed has been reached. The pilot hauls back on the stick and the model gets into the air but it is not flying on the wing. It is being pulled into the air via the power of the motor being transferred through the propeller. So, as the model rolls left, and the pilot has full right roll on, nothing happens as the wing has no authority. In fact, at low speed, the act of putting in right roll to combat the left roll/yaw, actually makes the problem worse as the right aileron is causing turbulence and disrupting the airflow and the left aileron is causing drag pulling the wing down even further. A spectacular cartwheeling landing is often the result. You can ask me how I know this if you like but I am sure you understand.
Mind you, sometimes and I mean sometimes, a pilot gets away with it. I have have seen it, with the model waddling into the sky, but when it goes wrong...........
My home runway is 150 metres long and I use eighty metres of that to get my warbirds off the ground. [Mostly FMS 1400mm series]
Here are the steps with a warbird and if I miss any, any one else can correct me.
Line up into the wind and have the model as close to center line as possible.
Apply full up elevator and hold.
Ease the throttle on and at the same time apply some right rudder. Just enough to keep it going straight as required.
Check the direction of the model as it starts to move. You will often get a big swing early as the wheels break the inertia barrier. Ease in more rudder if require or let off the rudder if needed. I call this massaging the rudder. Back off the throttle and go again if you have to and be prepared to abort the take off. No one will think any less of you for doing so.
Let the elevator go to neutral as the speed increases and now fly the model on the ground. IE, keep the nose level by using tiny amounts of elevator.
At this point there is a 'dead spot' in the direction control as the tail wheel ceases to have authority, either due to the speed or the fact it is in the air. [surprisingly the tail wheel does not work at all when it is in the air;):)] and the rudder has not taken over. It is only a small moment in time but it is there none the less.
Go to full throttle and ease the elevator stick back gently and you should have a nice long, straight, 'scale' like take off. Climb out and make your first turn and then reduce your throttle to where you want to cruise at.
I would like to say that landing is the reverse of the take off, but it is notLOLLOL
Regards and respect
Daryl

[TiredIronGRB]

I've been flying beginner models for several months like the sportsman and the apprentice. Recently I purchased the 78'' t-28 and love it. I'm surprised how easy it is to fly, in my opinion it isn't much more difficult to fly than my apprentice. Recently I bought the 59'' fms p-47. Never flown a warbird before. It was a hell of a lot harder than I thought it would be. Pulled hard left while zipping down the runway, I didn't have enough rudder and should have aborted immediately, but I pulled up and forced it into the air. 20 seconds later it crashed into a nearby pond. Floats very well!! Got it out, everything seems to work except for motor or esc. Why was this so hard to fly?? I'm bored from the apprentice but after this flight, i'm considering more practice before trying the p 47 again or any other warbird for that matter. Also, I love the as3x in my t-28. Any advice on as3x receivers or gyros that are simple to set up. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks!!

Welcome to Hobby Squawk CL, do you have rates and expo set up on your radio?

[WintrSol]

Daryl is very correct about take off distance - a scale take off run for a war bird of that size is about 80-100 meters (except for a few designed for carrier launch). Just let it accelerate, and admire it as it lifts the tail, then gently rises.