What’s the best way to build the extension wires from the motors through the pylons and up to the batteries??? Solder and shrink tubing? Also, what’s the best ESC that will fit in the allocated space in the 90mm nacelles for the 90mm 12-blade in runner motor?
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New to EDF’s purchase the 80mm A10 from RC Motion and trying to get it running. Bought the two 130A ESC’s with BEC. Do I need to run both 5A BEC’s? I was told by my local hobby shop to cut one off and just run one. I’m running two 50C 6000 lipos. I connected everything as obvious and when I connect the batteries, all I get is the motors beeping once per sec with the fans twitching during each beep???? -
Oh, left out one important fact. I upgraded to the 90mm Freewing 12-blade EDF +4068-1835KV Inrunner motor.
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Welcome Bidnispilot....I defer to other experts to answer your BEC question. The stock bird has only 1 BEC as it comes from the factory.
Being new to EDFs, I strongly suggest you search on the words “ferrite” and “RF choke” and “choke” and read/learn/purchase/install this cheap, easy to use, potential crash prevention item.
I lost an A-10 twice (once repaired) and an F-4 before I started using the RF chokes. No crashes since I began using them. High current ESCs seem to require this special consideration.
Here is a link....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWCSNW9...T8736BPQMCVS5M
Try reversing the throttle direction on the transmitter throttle channel to clear the beeping. Then make sure to calibrate the ESCs.
Suggest you go to the “Official” FreeWing A-10 thread and read the posts....tons of good info to be had. May prevent you from crashing your A-10.
-GGComment
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I second this suggestion. I had no clue of this issue.(and read ALL the EDF jet forums before your maiden flight as well as watching as many youtube videos as you can find so you will be educated enough to recognize a problem as it appears.)
I suggest also using a quality radio with some telemetry on these things. I'm also a beginner on EDF's, and the first things I noticed witnessing them and flying them first hand is
1. How incredibly fast they are, which is awesome til you realize how fast they get out of range, (a radio set with RSSI telemetry helps here) Many run a secondary "satellite" receiver. I have the Jumper 5n1 transmitter, and using a 2.4 receiver with a satellite in 915mhz long range in case I forget its not a sailplane.lol
2. How quickly they become unable to tell orientation in the sky, which is the number 1 scourge of all r/c enthusiasts. (A paint job or temporary markings can help a lot, remember an original design factor on ALL fighter jets is low observability. Which is why its smart Motion offers many of their models in air show livery.) I personally have decided to install/upgrade LED nav lighting to the ultra bright Strobon V2 cree setup on all my planes now after receiving the first set. FAA legal too!) But some Flourescent Pink and Green tape on the wing tips in the navigation orientation is all you need to safely fly in the day and still be able to tell whats what.
a third thought, I grew up on nitro powered flight and was shocked and disappointed at first at the short flight times of electrics, especially EDF jets. USE A TIMER. Even a cheap egg timer if you cant afford a fancy radio. You CANNOT deadstick an EDF jet! Most of these models seem to only get 3-4 minute flight times.Comment
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BB and GG thanks for your responses and will heed all of your advices! I did find the solution to getting the motors running by bringing the entire motor setup to my local AMA field and let the boys go at it. It was simply connecting the single BEC plug to the receiver. It bonded fine after that and both EDF’s ran perfectly. Now, I have a bigger mess of trying to find out why my 4 flap servos and left rudder servo are inoperative. Hopefully not bad servos from the factory because they are firmly glued in and wires taped over and painted!Comment
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The probability of 5 servos being bad is almost zero. Might need another trip to the AMA field and have the boys go at it.
You can start some elimination experiments...take a known "working" servo and plug it into a non-working flap connection. In other words, do some servo swapping around/experimentation.
Good luck.
-GG
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Maybe purchase a battery checker/ servo tester if you don't already have one. They're great for centering and testing servos when assembling planes, you don't have to have the receiver, or have it bound, to check the servo operation, or even have the plane assembled. So if it's a programming problem, or a receiver issue, or wiring, or something else it's easier to troubleshoot or head off an issue.
Do not test LED lights with the tester, you will burn them out, the lights need to go through the blue box. I found that out the hard way. It looked good for a millisecond.Comment
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SanExup, that’s exactly what I did!! Tore the entire aircraft apart and tested all servos and they were all good. Found the flap wires on both sides reversed polarity from the factory. Got it all back together with all servos working. Now, a newly found problem with one of the four factory installed (Glued in) flap servo arms was installed incorrectly. Not sure how to successfully remove this servo to correct. Not happy with the QC at Freewing anymore!!!! Any suggestions from the board would be greatly appreciated!!!Comment
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Regarding servo removal, use a wide mouth, flat blade pliers and work it down onto the sides of the servo...some slight foam deformation may result. Then gently twist the servo...rotating a little back and forth. The factory glue will eventually let go. Take your time. Very little foam damage can be obtained with care.
Regarding the “incorrect” servo, check the servo type and placement in the manual for the one that appears to be incorrect. You can easily verify your assumptions.
Glad you found the wiring issue.
-GGComment
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Instead of removing the servo I usually poke a thin Philips screwdriver through the foam at an angle to the servo horn screw and unscrew it with the servo still in place.Comment
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FYI - There was a discussion on the MiG-29 thread about battery management and an almost crash.
Here’s a slick little visual “helper”...
Tiny, too. 2cmx1cmx0.2cm
Link follows....ordered some!
-GG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6JM98R...V0PQ7GJVGJAB39Comment
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MRC FW A10 With two 6S 6000 in tandem at manual CG is very nose heavy and to balance need approx 130g at tail area. Anyone to help out on this issue.
Thanks Guys.Comment
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Aviator, I use the same batts and yes, nose seems heavy and my cg is as manual says. It flies fine!!! You’re gonna love it!!!Comment
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I do not have to use any weight in the tail to move my cg to the correct location. I built it with the 90mm EDF upgraded motors if that makes a difference?Comment
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Thank you for your input on the A10 CGComment
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