I used some Rustoleum satin finish over my fw190 a week after applying the final paint coat and immediately after the entire aircraft looked dusty (I applied the coat outdoors)
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I have tried every paint technique known to man using Rustoleum as a finish and it turned out terrible. Rustoleum has a very small window or very long ones to apply additional coats. If you follow the recommended steps and time lines you may be successful 1% of the time. I contacted their technical support and their story is different from the lable instructions. Timing between coals is extremely difficult to master. Their paint is very sensitive to moisture in the air, heat and sunlight. Sorry to bring you bad news but don’t beat yourself up over using their products any longer. Sand off the clear you applied and try to seal your model with other products but make curtain the applied paint is completely gassed out and dry. Then apply the first coat very thin then follow up with desired finish. If you want to use raddle can paint, go to Ace Hardware and try their Premium brand or an automotive paint store. Hope this helps, best of luck. -
Anzios , painting with spry cans is a tricky business.
painting outsidr is even trickier.
When I have to paint out side I look at the instructions very carefully for recommended distance to spray from. The hotter the weather the closer range is better. 6 to 12 inches may be the recommended range so i would go closer to the 6 inch distance. This is due to the nature of the rate of drying. Some will actually start to evaporate on the short distance from the can to the subject and will result in a dusty finish. Also outside without a shield will allow any thing in the air to settle on the surface also causing a dusty look.
I paint using boxes when doing smaller parts. If I can't take the plane apart i will tape cardboard together to act as a shield. And during application start to spray before the object and stop after the object . About 3 or 4 inches on either side with each stroke. I use light coats. But the number 1 thing when spraying outside aside from constantly shaking the can is this. Borrow a small bucket or plastic Icecream conainer and fill it with hot water.
Give the can a good shaking to ensure the mixture inside and then place the can in the hot water for about 2 minutes. This helps the mixture and also thins its consistency. Re shake the can and do a couple of areas, then put it back into the hot water.
usualy only about 30 seconds at a time between section to section. Once the entire object has one light coat let it gass off and dry. Usually there is a beforeand after time for 2nd coats. Sometimes it is within 20 minutes or after 24 hrs. This is important for the ensuing light coats to adhere to each other.
Then cover up the object so no outside elements land on the painted surface. Anything fom dust to bugs.
I do not sand between clearcoats on foam unless the coat is fully cured. Even if you ignore everything else, the shaking and hot water is crucial to a better finish as it has more effect on the consistency and mix of the spray.
I hope this is helpful.
Are you using the 2X brand of spray cans. It comes in a lot of colours including clear.
Good Luck
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