FMS 55" Corsair

[KitBuilder]

Purchased the FMS Corsair and overall very nice.
After a couple landings there is a small 'rod' that holds the gear on, acts as stop for the rotation, etc. It had come out and I couldn't find it on the runway. I notified MRC as I wanted to know the diameter of the wire or any info so I could fix it. They sent me a new set of gear as it was under warranty. I wasn't expecting this.. just wasn't... duly impressed..
I made a few paint changes and I think it looks great....
The cockpit cover pops off with a little help and once taped, is easy to paint silver. I looked online and painted the tips of the tanks yellow and matched the missles as well . I think it loos pretty good with some additional color...
Very smooth flyer...

[mrmike67]

looks very nice. great job

[Flygirl]

That's too nice to fly....! ;)

[Capt. Crunch]

Looks great!

Jeff

[Grossman56]

good job Kit Builder!
Does the tail wheel retract? Or do you think that might be a mod you could do?

Grossman56

[bradl4648]

Hi Kitbuilder

Nice job on this plane! The issue on that pin its a pressed in and non replaceable to my knowledge on it. I also do not know the diameter either but its simpler just to replace the retract unless you know a someone who n=knows how to mill or you do.

[KitBuilder]

yeah... I'm not an ARF Guy so I was kinda shocked, 1st that's it's not a threaded end... would make much more sense. and you should be able to shove another wire in there. Thing is if it falls out, it hold the bottom part of the gear on so your best bet is to retract the gear but with that 4 blade prop you risk some pretty descent nose damage when it catches. I've been flying for years and years so the landings were normal.. nothing jarring so I imagine others are having the same issue. Thing is.. replacement gear set is 50 beans!! retail. Seems like a simple fix.. hopefully a fix in the next version for future purchasers.

The tailwheel does not retract on this one and since it's basically a foamy... I'm just going with it as is. Could use just a tad more ooomph but I flew in a bit of wind so I'm looking forward to a calm morning.

This one's my fix until I have the time some years from now to build the big ol Topflite gasser :)

[Dewey H Lee]

You might try going to a local hardware store and get some roll pins that you think are close to that size and use the one that works. I have found them smaller than a needle. Since they compress you have a little leeway. Just grind or cut to length. Can also be purchased from McMaster and Carr but you will have to get a box. Hope this helps.

[Dewey H Lee]

I just remembered I did buy some small ones at an auto parts store also.

[Dewey H Lee]

By the way. Really like the plane. Corsairs are my favorite followed by Spitfires and then Mustangs. Gosh I hope I don't get slot of grief for that statement in the order it's in. I also like my FMS P40 even though it's still in the box.(1400mm)

[wrongroad]

G'day Dewey,
I like the Spitfire above all WWII aircraft. All curves, and nicely shaped. My wife has no idea why I find the Spitfire sexy.
The Mustang is like the sister you should have dated, you might have been happy with her, but........ [having said that I have three FMS 1400 P-51Ds in my lounge room]
My Corsair does not get as much airtime as the Mustangs but rates in my top three of all time great single engine single seat warbirds.
I do not have a Spitfire in my current collection [built a six foot MKIX thirty years ago] and unless someone brings out a good one in 1400mm, there will not be one in the hanger.
It is so hard to rate the three aircraft as all were built for different functions. They are all magnificent machines.
Regards and respect
Daryl

[Dewey H Lee]

Hey Wrongroad
My Spitfire is a 55'' wingspan balsa model made by Pheniox. I put it together last year. Beautiful plane. I wish I had went electric but instead I went with an O.S. 55 AX nitro engine. Almost put a used motor I had in and then thought what are you doing to this beautiful plane. She deserves new everything so l popped in the O.S.. I know properly tuned motors should not need them but I even put an onboard glow ignitor so that on approach I don't take the chance of a rich condition causing the motor to stop. The kit comes with mechanical retracts and split flaps. I am thinking of changing out the retracts to electronic though. The ARF at the time I bought it was 169.00 and now sales for 149.00 from Tower Hobbies. As soon as I can get back on my feet I'll try and get some pictures.

[OV10]

Hey Wrongroad
My Spitfire is a 55'' wingspan balsa model made by Pheniox. I put it together last year. Beautiful plane. I wish I had went electric but instead I went with an O.S. 55 AX nitro engine. Almost put a used motor I had in and then thought what are you doing to this beautiful plane. She deserves new everything so l popped in the O.S.. I know properly tuned motors should not need them but I even put an onboard glow ignitor so that on approach I don't take the chance of a rich condition causing the motor to stop. The kit comes with mechanical retracts and split flaps. I am thinking of changing out the retracts to electronic though. The ARF at the time I bought it was 169.00 and now sales for 149.00 from Tower Hobbies. As soon as I can get back on my feet I'll try and get some pictures.

Hello Dewey,
I know this is a Corsair thread but couldn't let you and Wrongroad go by without a confirmation. I have the Phoenix Spitfire and it is a great model and for those that are looking for a 1/8 scale this one is damned nice. Using an FMS 4250-580kV motor with spinner/prop from Ferocious Frankie. Those mechanical retracts are actually quite nice when actuated with Spektrums A7040 retract servo(adjustable end points and speed). If you do go to etracts, spend the money on the FMS 1700 sized all metal ones. It doesn't come with the iconic wing radiators but I modded the ones from the Dynam Spitfire and now it looks the part. I'll have to post a couple pics myself under a separate thread.
Best regards,

[Dewey H Lee]

That's great Ov10 I'll be looking for the thread and pics.

[KitBuilder]

Dewey.....
I will look for a replacement in the placed you mentioned so I'll then have 2 sets of working gear.
Should arrive Friday. The wire has no plug after taking it apart and since it's taped down throughout the wing, I think I'm going to snip the wires allowing for some length and solder the replacement in.

[F106DeltaDart]

Dewey.....
I will look for a replacement in the placed you mentioned so I'll then have 2 sets of working gear.
Should arrive Friday. The wire has no plug after taking it apart and since it's taped down throughout the wing, I think I'm going to snip the wires allowing for some length and solder the replacement in.

Nice work on the Corsair! What you might want to do is go to the hobby store with the retract and look for some steel rod to replace the pin. I have had the rotation pin come out on several of my retracts and I have usually been able to find something that will work from the LHS. Then you would have a spare retract around as a backup. A little CA or JB weld holds it pretty well in addition to the press fit. Also, a tail retract can be added using a Robart #122 or 121 with little wieght impact if you feel so inclined. Certainly not a nessecary mod, but it makes for a nice rainy day project.

[T.J]

Kitbuilder, My Red Bull Corsair is pretty much an FMS. Do you fly off grass? Having trouble taking off without nosing in even with full up elevator. I fly off a rough grass field. Any ideas.
TJ

[wrongroad]

G'Day TJ,
When you say full up elevator [I will ask the dumb question to get a better idea] where do you have the control rod set and what percentage of full throw on the servo do you have?
I fly my FMS F4U 1400mm with the elevator control rod in the hole furthest away from the centre of the servo arm and in the outer most hole [away from the elevator surface] in the clevis horn.
I then add 140% throw to the up and leave the down at 100%. No expo. [Using a Futaba 8J]
Our runway is smooth grass now but was quite rough when we first started to use the field. After all it is cattle pasture.
I had one nose over in this time when the wheel got caught in a hoof divot and, yes, I broke all four blades.
Other then that I have found that these settings are good enough for my field.
If you set up like me, I would recommend that you take the control rod on hole closer in on either the servo arm or clevis horn, put this setting on a high rate and then make a more flight friendly low rate setting as per the other setting.
Use your high rate to get off the ground and be aware that the model will be more sensitive to the stick input, and then switch to the normal flight friendly lower rate for the rest of the flight. You may wish to go back to high rate for landing but I would land first and then flick back to high to taxi in.
This should help you out. Now, of course, I am presuming that you have a transmitter that allows for this kind of set up with high low settings, most modern transmitters do.
Just remember that the aircraft will be different if you do this. Stay on top of it and you will be right.
Regards and respect
Daryl

PS, By the way, I never give tips or ideas that have not used.
If I put it up here [or elsewhere] I have used it and proven it first.
I will not give out ideas that are not conducive to making pilots feel good about trying what I advise.
I simply do not work that way.:cool:

[T.J]

Wrongroad,
I will set my radio up as you suggest. A have a Spektrum DX7 G2.
Thanks for the info, will let you know how I make out.
TJ

[FLY BOY]

I used to have this problem with all my planes on rough grass. I cured it with DAVE BROWN shock absorbing tires. Now my planes roll over most rough grass situations, even tall grass.