FMS B-25 Crash Questions and Comments . . . .

[borntoolate]

Bob, Thanks for the follow-up details. . .
The suggestion about placing the Rx in a "top" hatch brings up a question.
In the FMS model I have, there is no tunnel on the topside. I assume that you carved one out. When I cut into my damaged B-25, I found two things: the hatch cut has to been started a specific distance behind the top gun turret. If one cuts it in a bit too forward, the foam is almost solid to the next layer, and, there is no tunnel from that new hatch to the forward factory hatch.
Do you use an Rx with a satellite...? I am thinking on the new model I would do that however, placement locations in this model seem very limited for a separate location for the satellite. I plan to use your advice about "Taping" the connections. .
Dave. .

If you measure 1 inch back from the rear of the turret, you can cut across at that point. I made a 4" hatch, which takes you back to just the next bulkhead. There is no tunnel, I just carefully cut the top pertion of the bulkhead level to the floor of the new hatch area. I have used satellites on my B-25s.

If you do this, I recommend a very sharp razor and make one clean cut in each direction and you will have a hatch that will be hard to see when you are done.

Bob

[Skywagon]

Geez . . Lots of great ideas for the B-25 from all of you. ! First, I liked the suggestion of mounting the Rx in the belly. Lots of room for an Rx & its satellite spread apart. Rx also would have the best reception there. But, it would be tough to monitor its binding & syncing LED with the Tx. Bob has good success with the 2nd "top" hatch & that is what I will do. The plan also is to "carefully " feed all excess wiring into the belly hollow. Reason: with model flying towards me, a top mounted Rx could be looking thru the rats nest of cables for its Tx signal. I am almost sure that is what caused the crash of the 1st plane. With much of wired relocated in the belly, reception should be stronger. Dave
PS: I should have mentioned the nose wheel "door" servo arm problem. When the nose gear door is closed, the servo arm & linkage end rotates into the battery compartment. Far enough to hit the battery. That could jam the servo, and/or rub a hole in the LIPO. A small 1/8" wedge glued in next to the arm will lift the battery enough to give separation.

[borntoolate]

I did the same mod in regards to the battery/linkage issue. The problem went away when I modded the new nose gear and eliminated the gear door servos


Bob