Official FMS 1400mm P-40B Warhawk Thread

[Hardway]

Welcome to Hobby Squawk!!! That was a great deal..... Make sure your control surfaces work the correct direction after your receiver installation. You will love the way she flies... It is a nice warbird and just a joy!! Good luck!! Jerry :Cool:

[ds8514]

Hello, I’m new to the forum. I just picked one of these beautiful p-40’s a couple days ago. Was at the local hobby shop to buy an e-flite p-47 and the p-40 was hanging for sale on consignment. Looks like it’s never flown. Came with a spectrum dx7s for less then the p-47. Had to jump on it. I’m installing an ar636 receiver as I have not flown in quite few years but Man I can’t wait to get her up in the air

[OV10]

My question is do I just put that pin back in get new ones or put actual roll pins in it.

FF.........there is really no satisfactory way of swedging those rotation pins back into the strut and I have never seen new replacement pins.
Fortunately one does not see this happen but on a rare occasion on the FMS etracts.
This was a major issue on the HSD Skyraider etracts and I published a report on how to fix that by using roll pins.
So you basically have two options.......new etract or roll pin ;)

Warbird Charlie

[qmmo44]

Hahaha...yes. The only time they make a noise now is when fully deployed. It is new and hasn't been crashed yet so things might be a little tight. I'm going to order a decal set from Callie's to use during one of the for sure rebuilds I'll be doing!!

[Grossman56]

Them danged noisy flaps, got so used to them, never thought of thatLOL:Cool:

Grossman56

[qmmo44]

Yes. It was the flaps. As I work them back and forth the sound dissipated. Should be OK. Thanks for the response.

[farmflyer]

The loud hum is probably not the receiver but instead is one of the servo’s they are digital and that noise is them trying to center their self or when they are binding like at the limit of throw.

[Grossman56]

Hey alpha!
On 6S, it's just that much more scale too!
At Nefi, CB can put his into unlimited vertical, he has a different prop on his but I'm still running stock and she'll pretty well keep up with his. Back home at base altitude of 5000 feet she's still extremely scale and the guys at the club love her I asked Charlie why he changed the prop and he said he had some problems with full power dives, I personally just throttle back and have had no problems. The 1500 mm P-47 Razor motor/ESC takes about 5-10 minutes to install, the hardest part, at least for me was fishing the old ESC out, but after that its easy, same bolt pattern so...

Grossman56

[qmmo44]

Not having bound the receiver may be the problem. Don't forget to install the bind plug and roll the trim right down on the throttle. I'm thinking that without the bind plug installed, it might not beep as the beeps indicate its searching for a signal from the radio. Worth a try.

Grossman56

Yup. One wheel in the sand over here. Bound the plane and all kinds of noises came out. Still have more work to do setting up the radio and I need to figure out why the thing has a loud continuous hum from the ESC.

Thanks for the tip!

[Alpha]

Great work from Callie, as usual. Those tigers look really nice.

This Warhawk is fun to fly, although I like watching AceMiGKiller fly his instead. He makes it look even better with big loops and scale maneuvers.

[Grossman56]

You'll note by the name on the jacket that it is none other than "RT" Smith, interesting how they painted a green spot for the tiger decal. Donated to them by Walt Disney BTW.

Grossman56

[qmmo44]

Comparsion

Now that is just plain cool. Made me smile. Nice!

[Grossman56]

Not having bound the receiver may be the problem. Don't forget to install the bind plug and roll the trim right down on the throttle. I'm thinking that without the bind plug installed, it might not beep as the beeps indicate its searching for a signal from the radio. Worth a try.

Grossman56

[qmmo44]

That's where I had my battery sitting when it was 4S. I put the hook and loop over the battery tray and haven't had any cooling troubles, even on 6S. It's a pretty forgiving bird CG wise and I think you should be good there, although it doesn't hurt to experiment around a bit. I hear you about the spare guitar parts. Having been down that road myself. I've also built my own computers and the cases etc all come with spare screws that adapt in certain circumstances. You never know what might come in handy!!

Grossman56

Good to know about the cooling. Thanks! Now I have to figure out why when I plug in a flight battery I get nothing from the ESC at all - no tones, no beeps...complete silence. I realize I'm a noob to this hobby but I've been around the block a few times. I haven't even bound the radio to the receiver yet. Also, I get no power to the receiver when I plug the battery in either. I probably missed something along the way (too many late nights working for the man...). Short of pulling out the motor and ESC assembly, anybody have any ideas?

Thanks for the help. Some day I hope I'll be able to return the favor.

Q (that is how I pronounce my last name BTW).

PS - I just picked up a new amp...it arrived Thursday...a Mesa Boogie. All I've had time to do is set it up. I haven't even played through it yet...too much work this time of year (open enrollment for tech guys is tough right now...)

[Grossman56]

Comparsion

[Grossman56]

I finished the build and it was very easy just like you said it would be. The only thing I came across was the screw for the vertical stabilizer was the correct length but the diameter of the screw was too small - the threads would not catch in any part of the hard point it was to go into. I substituted another screw I scavenged from another project (a guitar pick ups & electronics rebuild) and it fit well. To secure the battery, I used the hook and loop tape I use to mount effects pedals to peddle boards for electric guitars/basses. For the battery tray in this bird the width of the tape requires about 1/4" trim for the hook side to line the entire tray sans the outer slots the straps go through and I covered the bottom of the battery with the loop side and trimmed accordingly. Battery will not move. The only thing I wonder about is the large elliptical openings on the tray being covered and possible cooling issues as a result (I'm not sure, but if it is is a problem I'll just cut out the hook side of the tape that covers the holes).

The video was helpful. Thanks! Here is my P-40B ready to fly:





Here is the battery arrangement on the battery tray (still have to adjust for CG):



Q

That's where I had my battery sitting when it was 4S. I put the hook and loop over the battery tray and haven't had any cooling troubles, even on 6S. It's a pretty forgiving bird CG wise and I think you should be good there, although it doesn't hurt to experiment around a bit. I hear you about the spare guitar parts. Having been down that road myself. I've also built my own computers and the cases etc all come with spare screws that adapt in certain circumstances. You never know what might come in handy!!

BTW, Callie's Tigers look much better

Grossman56

[farmflyer]

I did the maiden on my P40 1400 mm today the plane flew great I used an Admiral 4000 hanging off the front of the tray like suggested. On my landing I had a light head wind and used full flaps I let it get a little too slow and bounced the landing not that bad after it settled it ran off the side of the runway and nosed over. I have some scrubbing on one wingtip and scratched a couple of the prop blades. I put my second battery in and when I picked it up to carry over to the runway the left strut fell out of the retract the pin that rotates the strut apparently holds the strut in the retract I found the pin in my Surburban it had a slight bend on the very tip of the pin where it is tapered. My question is do I just put that pin back in get new ones or put actual roll pins in it.

[qmmo44]

builds extremely easy, but check out Rich's build video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nlrLQJQJqo

I finished the build and it was very easy just like you said it would be. The only thing I came across was the screw for the vertical stabilizer was the correct length but the diameter of the screw was too small - the threads would not catch in any part of the hard point it was to go into. I substituted another screw I scavenged from another project (a guitar pick ups & electronics rebuild) and it fit well. To secure the battery, I used the hook and loop tape I use to mount effects pedals to peddle boards for electric guitars/basses. For the battery tray in this bird the width of the tape requires about 1/4" trim for the hook side to line the entire tray sans the outer slots the straps go through and I covered the bottom of the battery with the loop side and trimmed accordingly. Battery will not move. The only thing I wonder about is the large elliptical openings on the tray being covered and possible cooling issues as a result (I'm not sure, but if it is is a problem I'll just cut out the hook side of the tape that covers the holes).

The video was helpful. Thanks! Here is my P-40B ready to fly:





Here is the battery arrangement on the battery tray (still have to adjust for CG):



Q

[Grossman56]

builds extremely easy, but check out Rich's build video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nlrLQJQJqo

[qmmo44]

I am out of control. I don't even remember ordering this one ((I'm glad I did though...). Kinda like putting the sugar bowl away in the fridge...or walking around with one foot in a bucket...or chasing after a ball in the backyard only to kick it further away when you go to pick it up.





I can think of a lot worse things to be addicted to. Any assembly advice on this one would be appreciated.