Heng Long Tiger 1

[Wrench567]

Can't you just not load BBs into it instead of cutting wires? I still have sound and recoil when it runs out of ammo.
Thanks for the low range tip. Any others not in the manual? I found the headlight off, and stick swap. I could use steering expo. I wish I could bind it to my Spectrum DX7.
Thanks.

[Cathurga]

Hey All,

As expected, the kiddo went BESERK when he opened his xmas present, to find a Tiger 1! He has driven it pretty much everyday. As I knew the battery would not last long enough for him, I bought a cheap 4000mah NiMh to go with the stock pack. he has run through many packs of each. We have had some great quality time together with sticking on all the tools and accessories.
Getting the airsoft disconnected was a must, and one day I will get it reconnected, when I know he wont be shooting the cats and his little sister...(or worse, his mum).
With the 'mileage' he has put on it since xmas, I am surprised and pleased that there have not been any major problems. I have noticed though, that the right side track keeps moving off the center line and it looks to be the idler which is now all 'wobbly'. When I did an inspection I noticed that there is a lot of play and it is not repairable. Its also a little upsetting to see that the thread on the idler axle is a very borad thread, almost like a 'self-tapper' thread. So, its now time to do some upgrades, and they are mainly for durability so I need some advice.
Firstly, what is a good idler upgrade? I see that most of the ebay/chinese ones have a 'normal M3 (or similar thread). I dont mind drilling and tapping but getting the right size first is important... a drop-in would be better.
Next up, the support bearings on the drive shaft. I prefer the 'larger' ones that bolt through the plastic, and not the plastic bushes with a bearing in it....any advice?
Lastly, as I am doing the idler, I will probably put a metal sprocket on as well. The plastic ones are fine for now, but it looks like they dont run true. Having said that, I have seen some reviews of the El Cheapo idler/sprocket sets where people say the sprockets are crappy moulds, so dont really run true anyway... urgh.

Anyway, VERY impressed with this kit, fir the money it is awesome, and having a Tamiya Tiger I realise that these HL things are fantastic as charge and go fun.

Also going to be in the market for a new tank for me as well....as soon as kiddo asked about the 'battle apple' and how 2 tanks can fight against each other....going to need a US or Brit tank to fight against the Tiger.....Sherman maybe?

Thanks for all the tips and help!

[SoCalBobS]

To have just canon sound and track recoil without BB function simply unplug BB launch motor from MFU. Next splice the “recoil” double yellow wires together and leave them plugged into the MFU. Its that simple.

"Jumping" that circuit works like a charm. If you have any spare connectors that fit that slot in the MFU, make a jumper, so you don't have to cut the original wires. That way you can reactivate it in the future if you like.

[Rubicon99]

To have just canon sound and track recoil without BB function simply unplug BB launch motor from MFU. Next splice the “recoil” double yellow wires together and leave them plugged into the MFU. Its that simple.

[BcuriousR]

Bcurious, ok, wasn’t aware that the recoil and sound was done off a microswitch. I see you are on a 6.1S, mine is on a 6.0S so the BB unit is on CN10. Are you saying I should cut the wires to the BB unit and jump them so that in my case, it’s CN10? I suppose if that’s the case, if I do want to use the BB, I can just reconnect the wires at a later stage.
Rubicon, that’s what the seller informed me, so will give it a go with a magnet.
Thanks all..

The basic wiring is the same 6.0 vs 6.1, ( I just happened to have a picture of the 6.1). No, you can't just unplug CN10. If your firing mechanism doesn't trigger the microswitch, you will not have sound or recoil. Create a jumper or simply cut the wires to CN6 and twist them together. Then remove CN10.

[Cathurga]

Bcurious, ok, wasn’t aware that the recoil and sound was done off a microswitch. I see you are on a 6.1S, mine is on a 6.0S so the BB unit is on CN10. Are you saying I should cut the wires to the BB unit and jump them so that in my case, it’s CN10? I suppose if that’s the case, if I do want to use the BB, I can just reconnect the wires at a later stage.
Rubicon, that’s what the seller informed me, so will give it a go with a magnet.
Thanks all..

[Rubicon99]

Hey all,
picked up the Tiger 1 for my son’s Xmas present, he is going to go nuts! I ordered the basic model but picked up the steel gearboxes (although these look to be zinc as they aren’t black like the steel should be so I will investigate that with the stockist). I have checked it out and all is working but I am not going to use the BB function so wanted to disconnect it. CN10 is the firing mechanism and if I disconnect it, I lose the sound and the recoil action as well. Is there any way to just stop the bb firing mechanism and maintain the recoil and sound? I would have thought just disconnecting the bb motor would have left the other functions in place?
thanks and regards, Andy

If its a new 6.0 tank the steel gears are no longer black. You can simply use a magnet to confirm if the gears are steel or zinc. The magnet will not stick to zinc gears.

[BcuriousR]

Hey all,
picked up the Tiger 1 for my son’s Xmas present, he is going to go nuts! I ordered the basic model but picked up the steel gearboxes (although these look to be zinc as they aren’t black like the steel should be so I will investigate that with the stockist). I have checked it out and all is working but I am not going to use the BB function so wanted to disconnect it. CN10 is the firing mechanism and if I disconnect it, I lose the sound and the recoil action as well. Is there any way to just stop the bb firing mechanism and maintain the recoil and sound? I would have thought just disconnecting the bb motor would have left the other functions in place?
thanks and regards, Andy

The sound and recoil is triggered by a microswitch on the back of the airsoft unit. If you open the tank and jump CN6 (or cut the wires and connect together to permanently close the circuit; green jumper in photo), you'll retain recoil and sound without bb function.

[quitcherbitchen]

I might be wrong as I am new to tanks too, but I thought there was a switch in the hatch to shut off the BB function. I have an older model Panzer III and it has a Switch in the Cupola (hatch). Also, the tracks can me darkened three ways 1) paint 2) Acid like Vinegar or AK Industries burnishing fluid-check a youtube before doing so as the vinegar and AK solution actually corrode the tracks to darken, 3) use Birchwood bluing compound. I am going the Birchwood route. Bluing looks more authentic for a working tank and the bluing actually protects the tracks. The vinegar method makes the track dark and rusty. Working tanks the rust gets rubbed off. Hope this helps.

[Cathurga]

Hey all,
picked up the Tiger 1 for my son’s Xmas present, he is going to go nuts! I ordered the basic model but picked up the steel gearboxes (although these look to be zinc as they aren’t black like the steel should be so I will investigate that with the stockist). I have checked it out and all is working but I am not going to use the BB function so wanted to disconnect it. CN10 is the firing mechanism and if I disconnect it, I lose the sound and the recoil action as well. Is there any way to just stop the bb firing mechanism and maintain the recoil and sound? I would have thought just disconnecting the bb motor would have left the other functions in place?
thanks and regards, Andy

[Rubicon99]

Ok great, thanks. I am not going to go with the metal wheels and tracks for now, but I will probably replace the plastic sprocket and add a bearing suppport for the front driveshafts, metal idlers would probably be useful as a simple upgrade too. A larger pack will be useful too. If the tank survives longer than 2 months, I will look at doing some other upgrades for durability. I saw the thread where people have put bearings into the gearboxes and shimmed the gears. I prefer upgrades that are functional and help keep it running longer.
On my Tamiya Tiger I put the rigid gearbox supports, dropped the gear ratio and put strengthened idler adjustments in. They have definately helped, although its been in a box in my cupboard for well over 3 years....probably time to move it on...
Great help from all, thank you.

You absolutely do not need to add bearings or shims to the stock HL gearboxes. Just a few drops of a quality synthetic oil on the gear shaft/bushing contact points and some extra gear grease on the gears is all they ever need.

Some folks simply enjoy going the extra mile and seeing what can be done to make things run smoother for their personal taste. I have done this too, but overall it does very little for durability or increased performance.

[dai phan]

With Lipos I would stay no more then a 2 cell which peak at 8.4 volts. The LOW power mode will regulate use to only 7.2 volts.

I have run 3 cell Lipos which peak at 12+ volts. Again on LOW power mode will regulate use to only 7.2 volts.

The issue, it is really easy to switch from one mode to the other and your son could do it with knowing. It’s fun to run the tanks with high voltage but it will heat the motors and MFU up really fast. The 6.0 has a thermal cut off but it only seem to work once, the second time the system fries, at least all mine have.

For kids I recommend getting a simple and safe old school 7.2v NiMH battery in the 4000-5000 mah range. On a stock tank you will have more run time then a Lipo and not have to worry about running the Lipo charge to low or leaving it sit with no or very low charge between play sessions. Which of course is not healthy for a Lipo battery.

I run Li-Io on all my tanks so I should not have overheating issue correct? I am suprised HL did not mention the overheating issues of using Lipos on the operating manual. I buy all batteries on MRC ( Admiral 7000 mAh). Dai

[Cathurga]

Ok great, thanks. I am not going to go with the metal wheels and tracks for now, but I will probably replace the plastic sprocket and add a bearing suppport for the front driveshafts, metal idlers would probably be useful as a simple upgrade too. A larger pack will be useful too. If the tank survives longer than 2 months, I will look at doing some other upgrades for durability. I saw the thread where people have put bearings into the gearboxes and shimmed the gears. I prefer upgrades that are functional and help keep it running longer.
On my Tamiya Tiger I put the rigid gearbox supports, dropped the gear ratio and put strengthened idler adjustments in. They have definately helped, although its been in a box in my cupboard for well over 3 years....probably time to move it on...
Great help from all, thank you.

[Rubicon99]

Perfect! Thanks for the info Rubicon. I have been using LiPo for years, and am quite particular about maintaining storage voltage, even if I know the next play session is the next day. Running them low can be avoided with an alarm, but I cant trust a 5-year old to 'heed' the alarm. He'll think it means he should go faster! lol.
I will have a look at some NiMh packs to see what fits. Since I dont have the tank yet its difficult to determine what will fit. If you have recommendations, I am all ears!
I also feel the wieght will help with the scale appearance so I am not adverse to it, and my charger is a complex one so will be able to charge and maintain any battery chemistry.
Cheers!

A simple 6 cell sub “C” NiMH battery pack the same as used in hobby grade RC cars and trucks will fit the Tiger. You might have to squeeze the wires in but it will fit. Well you would have to squeeze the stock HL battery pack wires in too so no change there.

[Cathurga]

Perfect! Thanks for the info Rubicon. I have been using LiPo for years, and am quite particular about maintaining storage voltage, even if I know the next play session is the next day. Running them low can be avoided with an alarm, but I cant trust a 5-year old to 'heed' the alarm. He'll think it means he should go faster! lol.
I will have a look at some NiMh packs to see what fits. Since I dont have the tank yet its difficult to determine what will fit. If you have recommendations, I am all ears!
I also feel the wieght will help with the scale appearance so I am not adverse to it, and my charger is a complex one so will be able to charge and maintain any battery chemistry.
Cheers!

[Rubicon99]

Rubicon, thanks for the info, very useful. If it is in LOW POWER mode, is it not possible to use the LiPo option or would it still work without 'cooking' things?

With Lipos I would stay no more then a 2 cell which peak at 8.4 volts. The LOW power mode will regulate use to only 7.2 volts.

I have run 3 cell Lipos which peak at 12+ volts. Again on LOW power mode will regulate use to only 7.2 volts.

The issue, it is really easy to switch from one mode to the other and your son could do it with knowing. It’s fun to run the tanks with high voltage but it will heat the motors and MFU up really fast. The 6.0 has a thermal cut off but it only seem to work once, the second time the system fries, at least all mine have.

For kids I recommend getting a simple and safe old school 7.2v NiMH battery in the 4000-5000 mah range. On a stock tank you will have more run time then a Lipo and not have to worry about running the Lipo charge to low or leaving it sit with no or very low charge between play sessions. Which of course is not healthy for a Lipo battery.

[Cathurga]

Rubicon, thanks for the info, very useful. If it is in LOW POWER mode, is it not possible to use the LiPo option or would it still work without 'cooking' things?

[Rubicon99]

I did not know there are 2 power settings. What are they ??? Dai

Press “G” and hold while you toggle the throttle stick up for HIGH and down for LOW. You should hear a “ding” tone to indicate the setting has been made. Most of the tanks arrive in the box sex to the HIGH power mode.

HIGH power mode allows for up to the full 12v of rated power.
LOW power mode caps the usable voltage at 7.2v.

LOW power is really good for those that want a more authentic speed and handling feel from their WWII tanks.

[dai phan]

If you purchase the “Pro” version you will get metal wheels with bearings.

A 2s Lipo battery at 8.4v peak output is well within the design capabilities of the 6.0 tanks. They are rated up to 12.6v though I would not recommend this high of voltage. The control system can overheat.

Also the new 6.0 tanks have two power settings a HIGH and LOW. Make sure while your young one is learning you have it set to low power. The tank is rather quick in HP mode especially at 8.4+ volts.

I did not know there are 2 power settings. What are they ??? Dai

[Rubicon99]

Hey All,

I am new here, but not a new tanker... I started building a Tamiya Tiger 5 years ago, and got about 85% completed, then children, work, life got in the way. I dont want to pass my hard work Tiger on to my son who is tank beserk, so I am going to get him one of these (stock dependent). I will start him off on the entry level V6.0 as it seems to be waay improved from the previous versions. I will upgrade it as he breaks stuff....which he no doubt will. I have a few questions and was hoping the knowledgable people here might be able to answer them.

Are the road wheels running on bearings, or just bushes like old?
Some of the new tanks have idler adjustment, is this one of them?
I have some LiPo packs I would like to use, as they are 5-6000Mah, but not sure if there is space, or whether the new boards can handle a fully charged LiPo (8.4V). One of the packs is a 'shorty" for racing, and even at 4000mah, its still a lot smaller than a stock 6-cell NiMh pack.
Anyone designed and built a quick release system to get into the lower hull? I know I am going to be cleaning debris out of this to get better life out of the gearboxes and workings, so a quick way in would be great.
Lastly, even the entry level ones seem to have steel gears, is this the case?

Thanks to all! After lurking here for a bit, seemed like the friendlist place to ask,

Andy

If you purchase the “Pro” version you will get metal wheels with bearings.

A 2s Lipo battery at 8.4v peak output is well within the design capabilities of the 6.0 tanks. They are rated up to 12.6v though I would not recommend this high of voltage. The control system can overheat.

Also the new 6.0 tanks have two power settings a HIGH and LOW. Make sure while your young one is learning you have it set to low power. The tank is rather quick in HP mode especially at 8.4+ volts.