P-38 - The Ultimate EPO Lightning

Getting started in RC tanks... A quick question

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • dai phan
    replied
    Hello all....

    All the small pieces are installed. I am waiting on the painted Leopard figures to arrive bought on EB this morning. As a 45 year experience in plastic airplane modelling, I must say this is well thought out tank as far as scale details. I can see how plastic armor guys can go nuts over things like this. Dai
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • windmill
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan

    Thank you for your reply. Unless I am wrong I think Tamiya tanks each has its own unique sound but then 4 times the price. Dai
    Yes they do, and they're better quality....... but they still don't sound real. The small speaker, and background mechanical noise from the gearbox and track are a serious limiting factor.

    Leave a comment:


  • quitcherbitchen
    replied
    The sound is your wallet screechingLOL😁

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by windmill

    When stationed in Germany as a M-1 tank crewman, I got to train with our "sister" German armor unit, and had the opportunity to drive, load, and gun a Leopard. I could identify the M-1 sound set because the turbine sound is unique, but I couldn't say which of the other 3 was the Leopard to save my life. None of the sound sets sound like anything more than a vague suggestion of the real thing.
    At the HL price point, I'm happy with what they are, and won't worry about what they're not.
    Thank you for your reply. Unless I am wrong I think Tamiya tanks each has its own unique sound but then 4 times the price. Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • windmill
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan

    Ideally each tank should have its unique sound right? I am sure HL does it for cost saving measures since there are so many tanks. Dai
    When stationed in Germany as a M-1 tank crewman, I got to train with our "sister" German armor unit, and had the opportunity to drive, load, and gun a Leopard. I could identify the M-1 sound set because the turbine sound is unique, but I couldn't say which of the other 3 was the Leopard to save my life. None of the sound sets sound like anything more than a vague suggestion of the real thing.
    At the HL price point, I'm happy with what they are, and won't worry about what they're not.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by windmill

    All HL tanks use the same sound set with 4 options, Tiger, Leopard, M-1, T-90. It's in the manual.
    Ideally each tank should have its unique sound right? I am sure HL does it for cost saving measures since there are so many tanks. Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • windmill
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan
    Hi all,

    The sound on the Leopard is the same on the Sherman. Is that normal? Dai
    All HL tanks use the same sound set with 4 options, Tiger, Leopard, M-1, T-90. It's in the manual.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Hi all,

    The sound on the Leopard is the same on the Sherman. Is that normal? Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by windmill

    Have you confirmed its in high speed mode (G button & right stick forward)? The bigger a tracked vehicle is, the longer it will take to make a turn at a given speed.
    No, I have not done the high speed mode set up ( didn't read the manual yet). I just ran out of the box like I did with the Sherman. Since it is much bigger and heavier I am sure it has to be slower than the S. Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • windmill
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan
    Hi all,

    This morning I took my Leopard for a drive and it is much slower than the Sherman (also metal tracks) and very sluggish in turns. The battery is full charge (3800 mAh). Does this seem right? Dai
    Have you confirmed its in high speed mode (G button & right stick forward)? The bigger a tracked vehicle is, the longer it will take to make a turn at a given speed.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Hi all,

    This morning I took my Leopard for a drive and it is much slower than the Sherman (also metal tracks) and very sluggish in turns. The battery is full charge (3800 mAh). Does this seem right? Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by Sureshot
    When I bought my Abrams from them I got a screwdriver and hex driver with it.
    Steve
    In my HL Sherman, these came as standard tools. So the screw drivers are supposed to be a " Free gift for a lucky buyer "? Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • Sureshot
    replied
    When I bought my Abrams from them I got a screwdriver and hex driver with it.
    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Hi all,

    I got the Leopard tank tonight and so far I am pleased. I see a small plastic bag saying I am a lucky buyer and this is a free gift. However the bag is EMPTY !!! Can anyone tell me what this free stuff is supposed to be? DP
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by Rubicon99

    The hull stops are small pieces of the nylon/plastic hull protrusions that stick out just fat enough to stop the metal suspension arms at a given point of downward travel. Sorry I don’t have my Leopard easily accessible to photo one.
    How do I know I have hull stop issues ? What are the warning signs? DP

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan

    How can I prevent "hull stop" issues? And what is it anyway? Remember I am scale A/C guy and award winning plastic modeler but squatt about tanks. DP
    The hull stops are small pieces of the nylon/plastic hull protrusions that stick out just fat enough to stop the metal suspension arms at a given point of downward travel. Sorry I don’t have my Leopard easily accessible to photo one.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by Rubicon99

    Kind of hard to mess it up. The issues with the hull stops can be addressed and strengthen but you have to be willing to drill some small wholes in the hull and add metal stops. It is a little work but once done it usually solves the issues.
    How can I prevent "hull stop" issues? And what is it anyway? Remember I am scale A/C guy and award winning plastic modeler but squatt about tanks. DP

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan

    If I would like to keep the Leopard what can I do so I don't muck it up? I really like it.
    Kind of hard to mess it up. The issues with the hull stops can be addressed and strengthen but you have to be willing to drill some small wholes in the hull and add metal stops. It is a little work but once done it usually solves the issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by Rubicon99

    If you want a “modern” tank then the Abrams or T72/T90. The Challenger 2 is also pretty good but some can be finicky.

    WW2 tanks I would go straight for the T34-85 with metal upgrades: track, road wheels, sprockets and Idler. Solid running tank with almost no vices.
    If I would like to keep the Leopard what can I do so I don't muck it up? I really like it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan

    Then looks like I will return it back unopened. What do you suggest a good HL for first timers? Dai
    If you want a “modern” tank then the Abrams or T72/T90. The Challenger 2 is also pretty good but some can be finicky.

    WW2 tanks I would go straight for the T34-85 with metal upgrades: track, road wheels, sprockets and Idler. Solid running tank with almost no vices.

    Leave a comment:

Working...