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Unofficial Tongde Churchill Mk VII 1/16 Scale Battle Tank Discussion Thread
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Bearings: can’t tell for sure, but they spin very freely.
Recoil: haven’t tried, but the manual mentions it.
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Hi everybody, I'm new here but not new to RC tanks ;) Thank you for the great review. I'm waiting for mine for another few weeks.
Can hull recoil be turned off on Tongde?
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I don't thing track retention will ever be an issue with the Churchill. Seems like a solid tank so far.
So, do Churchill road wheels use bushings or bearings?
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Can you post a side by side with another well know tank to show a size comparison?
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The Vallejo bronze green is a nice color. I got some of it for the Tortoise and Comet projects for my airbrush. Already looks much better than stock.
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Paused for now. Looking for the best decal set - maybe Canadian? Until they're on weathering waits. I've repainted it a UK Bronze Green, from a large rattle can by Vallejo. Darker than the original. I used Perma Blue on the tracks. Those came out well, almost rusty in patches. Then I drove it around on concrete to highlight the proud bits. First time I used it.
The muzzle flash is a orangey yellow LED.
The exhaust smoke comes out in the correct location.
A tidbit of information: You'll be cleaning out dirt and debris from your Churchill after every session! There's a support shelf above the road wheels. The tracks pick up junk then drop it on that shelf.
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Both TD and HL boards recoil correctly, snap back, return slow. It’s a standard servo operated setup, just like many aftermarket modules. The TD board is 2.0. If it’s ready, I’ll bring it.
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Does the barrel recoil accordingly? Right when you fire with the Tongde board? Or it recoils first before the sound of fire? What Tongde board does it come with? I know that you have the HL 7.1 in there now. Will you bring it to our event on 4/7/24? Thank you!
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Ok.
One thing I was curious about is the strength of the relatively small road wheels. Will they hold up under side forces or compression? These are very different than most of our tank models. My recommendation is to buy the metal suspension!
Disclaimer: none of the issues I mention here have happened. It's just something I would look out for.
Notice the rub mark where the wheel met the frame. This is towards the rear, occurring while going uphill so the balance of weight shifts rearward. Metal wheel vs. plastic frame, no problem. Plastic wheel flange might chip under extreme circumstances.
This shows how the track can sag away from the wheel. Normally the wheel overlaps the track, see the photo above. Here I had it on a pedestal so the track hung freely. There's maybe a possibility a plastic flange could chip when it returns up.
Very complex suspension. I applaud Tongde for taking this on.
These are some rugged treads!
Here's a closeup of the adjustable idler. It appears to be a worm gear type.
I'm having some fun now!
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Great information! Keep it coming....Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostPer request, here are some open hull shots. I've already begun switching over to a HL board, but you get the idea. Lots of cool opening hatches and other details.
Here's the stock battery location. An Admiral brand 3500mah pack fits. There's plenty of room in the hull for a large pack if you relocate components.
This is the only cosmetic issue I'll be addressing right away; two holes on each turret side for an external store. I would have preferred no holes and to be able to add stowage where I wanted. It may make sense for others to have the convenience of pre-positioned holes, but a smooth side makes it easy to attach items, with tape or glue in custom locations. A minor matter.
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Per request, here are some open hull shots. I've already begun switching over to a HL board, but you get the idea. Lots of cool opening hatches and other details.
Here's the stock battery location. An Admiral brand 3500mah pack fits. There's plenty of room in the hull for a large pack if you relocate components.
This is the only cosmetic issue I'll be addressing right away; two holes on each turret side for an external store. I would have preferred no holes and to be able to add stowage where I wanted. It may make sense for others to have the convenience of pre-positioned holes, but a smooth side makes it easy to attach items, with tape or glue in custom locations. A minor matter.
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Off topic, but welcome Carson it's good to have someone close to TD like you here.Originally posted by Carson DKLM View Post
Hey Rob,
Was told by TD this case may happen while in the production line when doing the final packing, The worker sometimes picks the radio that is not the one who tested with the tank.
As that radios are originally set up with BB mode. that's why this case happened to you, I'm happy we all sorted that out. and TD will improve the packing procedure to make sure not happen in future production.
Carson L
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Hey Rob,Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostAn update regarding the servo recoil situation; it's not clear if it's my individual board or not. It is being looked into immediately and I will relay any developments. When others receive their tanks, it will be good to hear their experiences.
EDIT: It appears the recoil situation may be resolved. The servo recoil may or may not be active from the factory. If it is not, press V + B. This is listed in Step 14 in the manual. It's listed as "Tanks/Infantry Fighting Vehicle Switch". There is also on Step 6 of the IFV Operating Instruction section; press T + B "BB/Recoil Mode". Don't do this one. For the Churchill, it's V + B. My troubleshooting was complicated by two older boards that I was using for testing were not functioning well.
In other news, I'm told the IR bulb is stronger than in previous tanks. I know the recent M60A3 I bought had an increased IR range. I'll do some comparison testing with the high-power bulbs we've been putting on tanks. I'll also check the hit compatibility with other tanks.
Was told by TD this case may happen while in the production line when doing the final packing, The worker sometimes picks the radio that is not the one who tested with the tank.
As that radios are originally set up with BB mode. that's why this case happened to you, I'm happy we all sorted that out. and TD will improve the packing procedure to make sure not happen in future production.
Carson L
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An update regarding the servo recoil situation; it's not clear if it's my individual board or not. It is being looked into immediately and I will relay any developments. When others receive their tanks, it will be good to hear their experiences.
EDIT: It appears the recoil situation may be resolved. The servo recoil may or may not be active from the factory. If it is not, press V + B. This is listed in Step 14 in the manual. It's listed as "Tanks/Infantry Fighting Vehicle Switch". There is also on Step 6 of the IFV Operating Instruction section; press T + B "BB/Recoil Mode". Don't do this one. For the Churchill, it's V + B. My troubleshooting was complicated by two older boards that I was using for testing were not functioning well.
In other news, I'm told the IR bulb is stronger than in previous tanks. I know the recent M60A3 I bought had an increased IR range. I'll do some comparison testing with the high power bulbs we've been putting on tanks. I'll also check the hit compatibility with other tanks.
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