Callie Graphics

You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Gyro help

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Gyro help

    Hello guys, i'm fairly new to the world of gyros. I recently purchased the hobby eagle super a3 gyro. I want to use it with trainer mode. Whenever I do this, the aileron throws are correct but the gain is too high. The ailerons are very twitchy to the point where I know the plane would oscillate if it were in the air. So I lowered the basic gain and this prevents the twitchiness but all it does is drastically lower my throws which will give me no control. There are multiple gain settings but I'm not an expert on them. I want to find a way to prevent the twitch without making the throws so small. I figured I would post on this and look for some guidance. Below I posted a visual.

  • #2
    I use many different HobbyEagle gyros and the A3S3 is but one of them, so I'd suggest looking at the manual for this gyro as my response will be fairly generic to HobbyEagle gyros. Here is the manual if you don't have it already:
    https://www.hobbyeagle.com/manuals/A...al_v2.0_en.pdf

    I use the HobbyEagle programming card rather than the config software on the PC. I find the programming card is easier and more straight forward but that's just me.
    Looking at your screen shot tells me that the gain for AIL and ELE at 50% is much too high. What kind of plane is this going into? If it's a "regular" plane (as opposed to a 3D plane), I would suggest you stick with rate gain (basic gain) and all the other stuff at zero across the board. All those other gains are just confusing the issue for now and don't need to be set, as they are likely playing havoc with trying to make this thing work. Lock, Atti, Level, Hover gain are dangerous things to play with and can interfere with all kinds of things.
    The faster the plane, the lower your gains need to be. I typically set AIL rate gain at ~30% for jets and fast prop planes.
    First, I suggest you make sure your plane set up properly with all the control surfaces working in the correct directions when you move the sticks (no gyro connected). Also, for gyro programming, start off with 100% rate and zero expo on all the controls. You can dial those to whatever you like once you get the gyro working.
    Next, reset the A3S3 to factory default and start over. Start by reading the manual and go step by step, page by page. Note that on this gyro, there are several single lead connectors. Know that ALL those single leads are "signal" wires regardless of the color and need to be plugged into your RX based on this fact. Just because a wire is dark or black, does not mean it is "negative". It's a "signal" wire and must be connected to the signal pin on your RX port.
    If you can get to this point, start with gains around 25 for AIL and ELE. Rudder is least sensitive and can go with 30 to 35 to start. If you can hook up your master gain to the rotary knob, then you can use it to change gain in the air. Read up on what the master gain range means and how to use it.
    You'll need to assign a 3-pos switch (flight modes) so you can be able to turn the gyro OFF, ON (normal) and have "recovery mode" (that's the trainer mode where you can set your tilt angles for when you get into trouble and throw the switch and take your hands off the sticks).
    If you're going to stick with the PC software, your part starts on page 18 but everything before this also applies to you.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hello, first off, thanks for the response. I have the master gain attached to the rotary nob on my receiver. The plane I'm putting this into is an 800mm warbird. I have experience flying low wing planes, but I don't want to crash this one and waste my money. Therefore, I want to use the trainer mode which will not only limit bank angles but also level the plane if I take my hands off the sticks. However, after reading the manual carefully and testing different things out, I keep running into the same problem. This problem is the ailerons are too twitchy whenever I hold the plane in my hands at max throttle. I'm assuming that this would lead the plane to oscillate in the air. So, I lowered the basic gain and master gain. I've also played around the the atti gain, which is only valid in trainer mode. Just to clarify, in normal mode, the gyro works great(all control surfaces are in correct direction, correct amount of movement, etc.). However, whenever I lower the gain in an attempt to prevent the ailerons from slightly twitching whenever I'm holding it in my hands, the control surfaces lose a lot of their movement(throws are too small). I'm trying to find a state in which my planes' bank and pitch angles will be limited, along with it auto-leveling. However, after spending a lot of time performing tests, either the ailerons are twitchy whenever the throttle is high, or their throws are way too small. I can't seem to find the in between. Thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by mpomanek View Post
        This problem is the ailerons are too twitchy whenever I hold the plane in my hands at max throttle. I'm assuming that this would lead the plane to oscillate in the air.
        This is NOT a test. Holding the plane in your hand and going max throttle means very little. You are making the wrong assumption. Gyro induced oscillation only happens with too high of gain and too high of airspeed. The plane must be moving through the air in flight. This is how you determine the appropriate level of gain. Choose a basic gain setting and use the master gain to dial that down. In the test phase, changing both the basic gain and the master gain is not a good way of doing it. Set your basic gain at 50%. The master gain will then dial the basic gain from near zero % to 100% of the basic gain - ie, from almost zero to 50%. When the master gain is in the middle (12 noon on Spektrum), this means the actual basic gain is 25%. Have the ability to turn the gyro OFF. With it in OFF and master knob in the middle, get the plane into the air at a safe altitude and make a high speed run. Turn the gyro ON as it speeds up. This should represent 25% gain. When it reaches its top speed, does it oscillate? NOW, you have your test. If it doesn't oscillate, increase master gain by about 1 hr on the dial, this should put it to about 28%. Do another speed run, turn ON the gyro and see if it oscillates. If not go another 1 hr until it does oscillate, the back it off 1 hr and your are there. Note that AIL will oscillate first, so you'll see the wings "flap". Ground testing gyro induced oscillation is NOT indicative of much. Ground testing is only for gyro direction compensation and this does not need throttle. The gyro should also be mounted on a sticky cushion to isolate vibrations that may be caused by high throttle (propeller imbalance, poor engine mounting, bad motor bearings, cowl shake, etc). "Testing" is only as good as your understanding of what the test does.

        Comment


        • #5
          I will add to what xviper wrote;

          I am very wary of using trainer mode (or SAFE, self-level, or whatever other brands call it) with limited bank angles in fast planes like warbirds. The reason is that the turning radius becomes very large and the plane can get a long way away before you can get it turned around.

          I agree with XV that your test flight should be with gyro off, or the gyro will mask any out-of-trim conditions of the plane and you'll never get it properly trimmed. If you aren't comfortable flying with the gyro off, get a more experienced pilot to trim it out for you, and ask yourself if this is the right plane for you at this time..

          Comment


          • #6
            It's very true about the turning radius while in "SAFE" type mode. It's NOT instinctive to slow down when making turns with the bank limiter on, particularly in jets. An 800mm warbird can still get away from you as it's so small and hard to see at a distance. A friend was flying his little 70mm Yak 130. It took so much space to turn around he lost site of it and it basically flew away and crashed.

            Comment


            • #7
              you don't use ATTI for planes. that's for drones/multirotors. if the servos move too fast some radios let you slow them down.
              use the software, it's far better. it will show you what your servos are doing. the software also allows a stick deadband adjustment
              james, from motion RC turns his basic gains down to 30%

              James helps you set up your A3SUPER3 with an EDF or Warbird. Video table of contents and product links below:Product Links:US A3SUPER3 :https://www.motionrc....


              I found this in the manual.
              Control Behavior After installing the gyro, the airplane will become more stable but less responsive because of the correction of the gyro. To improve we need to reduce the correction strength of the gyro on the desired direction dynamically when there is an input of the sticks. This function allows you to change the control behavior by choosing different curves of the gain attenuation.

              Comment


              • #8
                I have several Hobby Eagle A3 Super 3 gyro’s, I use my Program Card X for setting them up.
                i now have an A3 Super 4 gyro and I need to upgrade the firmware on the card to program this gyro, the firmware available is V1.5 or V1.6.
                My question is with this upgrade will the card be backwards compatible with the A3 Super 3.

                Garry

                Comment

                Working...
                X