My trim buttons are not linear with the Eagle A3 Super II connected. I have to click it 5 to 10 times to get a movement on the control surface. When it does move, it moves a lot. It is impossible to flight trim. This happens even if the A3 is off. Completely disconnect the stabilizer and the trim tabs work normally.
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Trim tabs don't work well when a stabilizer is used. Are you sure it's OFF? Does the light indicate it's off (light off)? And have your confirmed that when you think you're in stabilized mode, the light is blue? If it's red, then it's in 3D mode and that's a whole other sort of calibration. Usually, the first trimming flight is done with the A3 in the OFF position. Do what trimming you need to do, land and take note of where the control surfaces are and move all trims back to neutral. Then manually adjust the control rods to duplicate what it looked like when you landed. Best done when the plane is powered on so all the servos are powered.
You checked to make sure stabilizer response is in the correct direction for each axis? Gain is in the appropriate range? Too little and you get almost no stab. Too much and the plane becomes jittery. On mine, once trimmed in the OFF position, very little need to be done when it's ON. -
The gyro is off when the light is red. Check the manual. You said "Usually, the first trimming flight is done with the A3 in the OFF position". I'm telling you It can't be flight trimmed in any mode. the control surface will jump 1/4 inch only after ~10 clicks. Read the post again very carefully.Comment
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You're right. It's far more advanced than my A3. Sorry, can't help you.Comment
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Yes, the super 2 is off when the light is red. I haven't tried to trim mine yet, as I already had it trimmed before I installed the gyro. I will try it tomorrow, and report what mine does with the gyro plugged in, but in the off position.Comment
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You need to set up the plane with the Gyro Off and then you must first mechanically center your control surfaces as best you can. If you are putting in 10 clicks of Trim on your initial set up then you have not mechanically adjusted them enough. Once that is done then your surfaces will be as close to neutral as possible. Trims and Dual Rates when the Gyro is on but the plane is not moving, may show restrictions in Surface Throw and movement as the Mems Sensor will affect this. All of your D/R's and Trims will however work just fine in flight so no worries there as HobbyEagle has explained this phenomenon in the past. When you fly and make Trim adjustments the Gyro will recognize those as the new Neutral the next time you initialize the Gyro and will not try to counter it. So mechanically adjust those flight control surfaces as best you can and then test the Gyro for proper correction and then go fly and trim in flight as normal. If you choose to just use the Trims to center the control surfaces on the set up (Not Recommended) but if you do then you might want to add a few clicks then turn unplug power and then reinitialize as this may eliminate that big jump you see.Comment
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I know this thread is old now. But I ran into this same problem, and this is the only thread I've found so far with anyone else asking about this issue. Since I couldn't find the info in a thread or find someone who knows what is going on. In-fact, until I found this thread I wasn't 100% certain it was the gyro. Because I hadn't removed it to check yet. But I was suspicious about it myself already. So I decided to see if the gyro had an option that most of my helicopter gyros have. Which is called "Stick deadband". This feature basically adds a preset dead zone in the center of your stick in case of having sloppy potentiometers in your stick gimbal/TX, etc. This feature is there to deaden out any unwanted jitter movements the pots can induce at center stick, and is a feature that appears to be active in the Hobby Eagle A3 Super II.Originally posted by emenees View Post
By default the A3 Super II's stick deadband setting is 5%. At this setting it was completely impossible to trim the airplane, just like you described. Not only would it not move the surface at all for up to 20 clicks. But then when it did move it would jump 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Which means it was completely impossible to fine adjust my elevators on the 90mm F-16 to line up with the recommended 7mm spot on the fuse. Closest I could get with a ball linkage 1/2 turn was about 3mm to far away in either direction. So it required a tiny bit of subtrim to center properly, and this is a very sensitive adjustment on that kind of airplane that can result in a crash, or so the manual said. Even worse than that was that I could slightly pull back on the elevator stick and actually be capable of only moving one of the two elevators, just slightly, on its own while the other stayed still. At a certain point the still elevator would jump about 1/4 inch to catch up and then they both track together evenly and smoothly after that. Well, until you drop back to center and it does it all over again. Initially I thought the problem was my servos. So I replaced them both with Hitec 5085MG servos, which are a perfect fit by the way. However, to my surprise. I could still do the single elevator movement for about 1/4 inch before the other would move. So around center stick, they were still not moving evenly together until they got farther away from center stick zone.
Anyway, long story, short. By reducing the stick deadband setting in the A3 Super II to 2%. Both the inability to subtrim/trim properly, and the uneven elevator movements all went away.Comment
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Thank you, I bought one of these long ago and replaced it after some crazy flights, LOL. Today I decided to use it again, I found the symptoms described by the OP and this solution fixed the problem. Yay!Comment
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