Masking Foam EPO for Panting

[Patternpilot]

Whats everyone's best method for masking EPO foam, or any foam for painting. I have been experimenting off and on for quite some time now, and really have not been 100% satisfied with any particular method.... The main thing that is disappointing me is that you could have a beautiful tape line, and then one little spot the tape your pulling up starts to lift your underside paint color right off.... I have tried the frog tape, blue tape, tamiya tape, etc.... I have even tried the jeans trick to decrease the tack of the adhesive. Suggestions ? Thoughts ?

[doctormike]

RE: Masking Foam EPO for Panting

This is the age old, seemingly insurmountable problem with masking foamies for a paint job. I used repositionable glue stick on printing paper on my Tiger Moth paint job. It's a lot of trouble but works fairly well. Something lighter than printing paper might be easier to work with and more conforming. If you find something that really works...     PLEASE let us all know!!! Doc

[fhhuber]

RE: Masking Foam EPO for Panting

Because paint lifts from the EPO so easily... I do everything I can to NOT have the tape's adhesive touch painted foam.

that leads to some interesting solutions to masking. I buy end rolls of newspaper. Still a couple of hundred feet left but not enough to be worth leaving in the printing press. then i carefully wrap the part that will be painted and tape the paper to itself, using tension on the paper edge to hold it tight to the model.

Spray at an angle that will not lift the edge...

This takes a bit of practice to get the technique right. But I no longer am having to touch up where the tape lifted the paint.

[rc-eflyer]

RE: Masking Foam EPO for Panting

A couple of other methods are using post-it notes and wetting light weight paper(if painting with non water soluble paints. Also, spraying a clear coat before masking. I haven't tried it yet on my RC models but one thing that is inexpensive and something I use on plastic scale aircraft is SC Johnsons Pledge multi-surface floor finish in light coats. It's basically a clear acrylic coating that dries very fast. It is sprayed on to protect the decals and give a uniform layer for "weathering" washes and such. If you use oil based paints over this layer you can easily use their thinners to "erase" them if you make a mistake or just don't like how it looks.

Steve

[Alpha]

RE: Masking Foam EPO for Panting

"Future" Floor Polish is very popular among plastic modelers. It's not sold under the SC Johnsons Pledge name. Versatile stuff, whether brushed on or sprayed. Rc-eflyer is right, it makes a great base upon which to layer your weathering coats, and it also serves as a durable sealer afterwards as a final coat.

[Grossman56]

Can you still find it. I heard they changed the formula and it wasn't very good. Great news as it was supposedly great for clear pieces like canopies.

Grossman56

[rc-eflyer]

No change, that was a myth promoted by people trying to sell the old stuff for highly inflated prices. I use it all the time on plastic models. Here's a few of my recent ones in 1/72 scale and an eggplanes just for fun.









Steve

[Major Geek]

I've found something that really works... Glad Press'n Seal, found at your local grocery store... I've used it several times now and has not ever pealed the paint it was stuck to. I've done several planes... I've always spayed away from the seal line, didn't want to lift it. I've tried to post photos, JPG, just doesn't like it for some reason.

[Konrad]

I'll have to give that a try. I currently use frog tape for delicate surfaces to cut out my stencils I then use a hair drier to loosen the adhesive just prior to removal. Not 100% effective but tolerable.

All the best,
Konrad

[Alpha]

Future is sold under a new name:

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C

Here's some fun information and comparative pics, including a more in-depth page linked to at the bottom of this one:

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/future-floor-polish

[Grossman56]

Thanks Alpha, just picked up the last bottle, it should be interesting to try as I've heard so many good things about it
Thanks again

Grossman56

[doctormike]

RE: Masking Foam EPO for Panting

A couple of other methods are using post-it notes and wetting light weight paper(if painting with non water soluble paints. Also, spraying a clear coat before masking. I haven't tried it yet on my RC models but one thing that is inexpensive and something I use on plastic scale aircraft is SC Johnsons Pledge multi-surface floor finish in light coats. It's basically a clear acrylic coating that dries very fast. It is sprayed on to protect the decals and give a uniform layer for "weathering" washes and such. If you use oil based paints over this layer you can easily use their thinners to "erase" them if you make a mistake or just don't like how it looks.

Steve

Wetting light paper... I have GOT to try that! I can see that water could get on the painted area. It would take some finess, maybe patting with a paper towel after applying the wet paper, but it may be the answer! Mars has more humidity than Santa Fe, so it would require some rushing, here. Doc

[Beeg]

I did some experimenting the last month or so looking for a better solution to masking that won't lift paint off EPO.

So here's what I've used the couple months.

Wet paper
Post-it notes
Other sticky labels
Frog tape - "yellow" "green".
Drafting masking tape - Pacific Arc
3M Scotch Low Tack Artist Tape
Grafix Frisket Film Low tack

My thoughts:
Wet Paper- Cheap, okay for straight lines but not a crisp edge.
Post-It Notes- Offers pretty crisp lines on smooth surfaces with very low tack. Doesn't do curves very well, especially compound curves. You have to tape over the top to hold them down.
Assorted sticky Labels- Same as Post-It's for surfaces and curves but too much tack. Can still lift paint.
Frog tape "Yellow"- A very excellent painters tape that gives crisp clean lines. It does curves very sell and even light compound curves. Very low stretching but can be stretched around some curves. Somewhat translucent so is an excellent choice for masking canopies. It still has too much tack for paint areas that haven't adhered well so will lift paint on occasion.
Drafting Tape "Pacific Arc"- Looks much like regular masking tape but has a lot lower tack. Gives okay lines but is expensive and can come up easily on surfaces that are not smooth.
3M Scotch Low Tack Artist Tape- The lowest tack product I tested. Gives clean lines on smooth surfaces but doesn't hold down well. Doesn't do curves well and is expensive. Only for VERY delicate jobs on flat surfaces.
Grafix Frisket Film, All Purpose Low Tack- What can I say? Most scale modelers have used Frisket. What I didn't know was that they have this low tack .002" thin version. It offers very clean and crisp lines and so far hasn't lifted any paint. Easily cut into strips to be used like a tape or cut into masks. Go's around curves very well with some stretching but not so much compound curves unless cut into thin strips or cut as a mask. It's almost clear so can be used for small delicate canopies. It has a paper backing which makes drawing out masks easier. I picked up a 12"x 4yd role but can be bought in sheets or rolls or various sizes and either clear or matte.

None of this data is conclusive and is my own experiences with these products and methods. I won't take responsibility for anyone dorking up their paint job but these are my thoughts. Like using any product whether it's a new paint, protective overcoat or masking method, test it on a piece of scrap first!
If you're on a tight budget wet paper offers a kind of mask. If you are really worried about paint lifting Post-It notes or 3M Low Tack Artist tape are your best choices. If you don't want to mess around with the other methods I highly recommend the low tack Frisket film.


Cheers and happy painting!
BB

[redtwilight]

A couple things I've found out while airbrushing...

Always pull the tape back along itself when removing it.

Also if possible, it sometimes helps to remove the masking very carefully before the paint has completely finished drying. The still "wet" paint won't have the chance to stick to the masking as it sometimes does when cured.

Use light coats instead of a heavy coat.

[Grossman56]

LAYERS!!! And I agree, best to pull the tape before the paint sets

Grossman56

[Corsair 167]

I've found something that really works... Glad Press'n Seal, found at your local grocery store... I've used it several times now and has not ever pealed the paint it was stuck to. I've done several planes... I've always spayed away from the seal line, didn't want to lift it. I've tried to post photos, JPG, just doesn't like it for some reason.

sounds like a GGRRREEEAAATTTT idea.

[Traxxas]

I have been experimenting and what I found works is that the shiny coat on the foam has to be sanded off to a dull finish with 320 grit sand paper is fine. After that apply coat of water base Minwax and sand with fine sandpaper 600 grit is what I used. Then apply another light coat of Minwax and let it dry overnight. Then a coat of primer, then water base paint and let it dry for a few hours.
Doing this the tape did not pull the paint at all.
The most important thing is to remove the shiny finish off the foam and then a light coat of Minwax.

[cherrylakeboy@yahoo.com]

What is suggested to use for paint on the new EPO planes

[quitcherbitchen]

Use this trick. Put baby powder on the model and then wipe it off. The green tape will not peel the paint as you peel it off. The baby powder is completely un-noticeable once it dries. Try it. It is shockingly easy.