Removing Minwax Polycrylic

[doctormike]

I'm trying to remove the polycrylic from a plane. What a mess! I've tried alcohol, denatured alcohol, and even acetone. The stuff really resists being removed! Any tips? Thanks, Doc

[benjack71]

Maybe some stripper used for removing varnish. I have no idea what that would do to foam. You might have to sand it off Doc. Or sand it smooth and just paint over it?

[doctormike]

Yeah, it's almost more trouble than it's worth. I wish planes were available with no paint or decals for those of us who do our own paint job. Doc

[boomer108]

I don't know what your attempting Doc, but if your just wanting to repaint the plane use some 220 or 400 wet or dry sand paper and paint over the polycrylic.You will get good adhesion and a good finish. Good luck Doc!

Roy B.

[doctormike]

The problem is...The clearcoat is over the stock decals. If I just sand it, the decals will stand out under the new glossy paint. In order to remove the decals, the clear coat must be removed, somehow. I tried to remove the clearcoat and decals on the top of the wings. What a mess! I'll settle for a light w/d sanding, and sand more over the decals to try to lower them down to the surface. Doc

[RRHandy]

Did you try MEK?

[Sparky]

Lots of caution with MEK that stuff will kill you, proper safety precautions are required. It will most likely eat the foam try on a small area to see what happens

[stnoeth123]

If you sand the decals and surrounding areas then use a GOOD primer and filler you will not have decal impressions. After you apply the primer you need to sand and repeat until you can not feel or see the raised decals.

[sailon4@verizon.net]

I suggest using a new sharp Xacto blade and carefully place a cut line around the perimeter of the decal, slightly outside of the decal. Then using the Xacto blade gently pry up the edge of the decal and peel it off. Applying some heat from a hair dryer will assist in the removal of the decal. After the decal is removed apply an equal number of Minwax Polycrylic coats to the removed decal area. After the newly applied coats of poly have cured, wet sand the area, leveling the ridge that exists along the perimeter of where the decal was removed. Wet sand the balance of the model. Spackle and sand any remaining flaws. You will then be ready to repaint.

[Lon]

I've had the same concerns when doing a refinish on a plane. On the ones where i had Minwax coats, in my case, i was going to put the same decals at the same locations. All said and done, sanding/prime, you can not tell with the finished job that I did or did not remove the old decals with the new decals placed in the same location. I've done it both ways, but now prefer to leave the old if i'm going to the the same decals and locations.

[Alpha]

I must have missed it, but in the context of this discussion, what is "MEK"? Methyl ethyl.. Ketone ...?

[Westsider]

I took it to be Methyl-ethyl-ketone, typically referenced as MEK, a powerful stripping solvent, associated with adverse health effects related to the Central Nervous System. I dont know what it will do to foam, but I have seen what it does to humans. I would stay away from it.

[Prowler901]

Yes, he is referring to Methyl-ethyl-ketone. That stuff is not your friend. I don't think you can even use it in the US anymore. Years ago when my Dad was a painter for a manufacturing plant he spilled a bunch on the front of his pants. It burned his legs. Looked like a real bad sunburn. It will eat foam for sure. You'll just end up with a little puddle of goo.

[StormyDog1962]

Seems I remember seeing that stuff on a Lowes shelf some time ago. I think the light sanding and primer will get you there. We have to remember they make these products to last a long time and sounds like this stuff really sticks.

[Westsider]

I hear that if they find you with it in the SCAQMD (south coast air quality management district), they dowse you with it and burn you at the stake, on the spot :p;).

[Aspirin]

MEK is great but not friendly to EPO foam or your body. Don't use it unless you KNOW how to protect yourself! On EPO foam it will go straight through the skin of the bead and expand then right before dissolving them! I've had good luck using a product call Goof Off to remove coatings from EPO foam

[RRHandy]

Yes, he is referring to Methyl-ethyl-ketone. That stuff is not your friend. I don't think you can even use it in the US anymore. Years ago when my Dad was a painter for a manufacturing plant he spilled a bunch on the front of his pants. It burned his legs. Looked like a real bad sunburn. It will eat foam for sure. You'll just end up with a little puddle of goo.

I can get MEK it here in GA at lowes, I put some on a Delta ray to see what it would do to the foam and it did nothing but I will try again and see to confirm. :)

[Prowler901]

Well that's good to know. I'm very surprised it didn't melt the foam.

[Grossman56]

You don't want to mess with this stuff!!
I've seen first hand, years ago, how it stripped paint off our DC3 that had been there for decades, it ate through the plastic bucket!!
Please, not on foam.
If you want to finish a warbird, watch these videos.
I can't recall what it is that Chris uses but do your homework first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXSSPvyPfVs

Grossman56

[Aspirin]

MEK will dissolve EPO foam. Test any solvent first by putting a sliver or small scrap piece a a jar of the solvent. Come back in five minutes and check the integrity of the sample, if you can find it.

MPk is a much milder and safer solvent much in the same vein as acetone. But it can often be used as a substitute for MEK to reactivate adhesives.