I have been wrapping most of my foam RC planes with vinyl film for about 7 years and I have posted a bunch of photos of the planes. Invariably I get asked a ton of questions regarding the film and how I apply it. I have even been asked to write a story for the AMA magazine on the topic. Well, I'm not much of a "how to" writer and I also doubt I am an expert on the subject. I'm sure I'm not the first person to wrap a foam plane, and I'm guessing there are folks out there doing it better than I.
I'm going to try to share some of my vinyl experience. Hopefully it will answer some questions. And, I'm always open to suggestions, so for those with better techniques or ideas, please share your thoughts.
Keep in mind, my planes are not contest winners. They look good from a couple of feet and in the air. I'm sure someone could take vinyl wrapping a foam plane to levels beyond what I am doing, so consider what I am sharing as a base for what you can do.
In 2011 I wrapped my first plane, a Hobbyzone Super Cub, just to make it look a little better. The film did cover the foam cells well and made the plane look less like a flying picnic cooler. The unexpected benefit I learned was just how well the vinyl film protects the foam. Actions like putting it in and taking it out of the car had meant chips and gouges of the foam, and my learning to land had caused more than one crack in the wings. I discovered the wrap meant the day to day bumps didn't end in me having to glue divots of foam back into holes in the plane and I am sure the vinyl can be credited with keeping the wing in one piece during a couple of embarrassing encounters with the ground.
The vinyl I use is by Oracal. It is a peel and stick film, much like the vinyl decals we are all used to putting on our planes. My first wraps were done using Oracal 651 Series vinyl film. I was happy with the product and I actually still have a plane wrapped with it. At the suggestion of an Oracal employee, I tried their 751 Series film and have been using it since. The 751 costs more, but it is thinner, which makes it easier to work around curves, as well as making it a little bit lighter. Regarding weight, I have actually removed a few square foot pieces of 751 Series film from its backing and rolled it up into a small ball to weigh it. It varies slightly by color but expect it to add about 12 to 18 grams per square foot of covering.
The vinyl takes most paints well and you can draw panel lines on it with a Sharpie paint marker. I have painted vinyl on a couple of occasions to achieve a specific look. Just keep in mind you are adding the weight of the vinyl and the paint.
When starting I make sure the plane is clean. If I am applying film to bare foam I clean the foam with alcohol. If the model has cast in panel line, I generally fill them with light weight spackle like DAP Fast N Final, then sand smooth. You can also cover a painted plane. Keep in mind the vinyl is thin and lighter colors such as white or yellow may allow the underlying paint to show through. I have removed entire factory paint jobs from EPO with acetone. Make sure to test a drop on an inconspicuous area before using any harsh chemicals on foam.
Once the plane is prepped, I start on the bottom at the back of the plane. By working rear to front, any overlaps are rearward facing and shouldn't be lifted by air passing over them. Where possible, I use the piece being covered as a template, making sure to make the vinyl larger than the piece being covered so I have vinyl to wrap around the edges. I have found the temptation to cut a single big piece to cover a large area usually ends in wrinkles at best, or ruining the piece altogether at worst. I've learned to cut my pieces in manageable sizes.
When covering curves, such as the tail end of a fuselage, wing tips or wing roots, I use small pieces. This reduces the likelihood of wrinkles. For large rounded wing tips I cut several slits in the outer edge of the film making series of tabs. Then starting at the rear, I press down each tab individually and this will eliminate most wrinkles. Do the bottom of the wing first, you can then trim the vinyl that is visible on the top of the wing with a sharp hobby knife, and when you cover the top of the wing the vinyl will look cleaner as it wraps around the edges of the wing. If I find I am going to have a wrinkle in a curved area, I will cut a slit in it with a sharp hobby knife. Stretching it as you lay it down with your finger will generally eliminate wrinkles. You can use much larger pieces when covering flat or nearly flat areas, remembering to keep them manageable.
If you are working with bare foam, you can usually reposition the vinyl once and it will stay put. If you are covering paint and try to remove the vinyl, it will probably remove the underlying paint with it and not be repositionable.
When covering small details or tight curves, you can use very light heat to help the vinyl snuggle down. Something to remember, vinyl reacts differently to heat than coverings you may be accustomed to using. Unlike Monokote which shrinks when it is heated, vinyl will soften, allowing it to be stretched tight over details and curves. The vinyl will shrink slightly, but not like more traditional model plane covering films.
When I have used heat, it is very low. I use a Hanger 9 covering iron set to its lowest setting to work vinyl into tight crevices or curves. I will also use it to reduce wrinkles on wing tips.
Working a couple of hours in the evening, I can cover a 1400mm plane in a week or so. Take your time and you should be able to have your first attempt look pretty good.
I purchase my vinyl on line from U S Cutter (http://www.uscutter.com/ ), they have a good variety of colors and options to buy their 651 and 751 series film by the foot or by the roll. You may find other vendors on line or you may even find a sign maker in your area that will sell you vinyl. Also, I’m sure 3M makes similar vinyl film, but I have never used it so I can’t comment on how well it would work for wrapping model planes.
I have been extremely pleased with the results of this technique. The vinyl doesn't completely hide the cell structure of foam, but it helps make it less obvious. The colors are vibrant and the vinyl stays on foam much better than paint and provides protection to foam paint can't. The vinyl will even stay on foam after being water soaked, as my Flyzone Beaver on floats and HK Skipper XL will attest. It is a relatively easy way to make your planes stand out among all the other foamies at your flying field.
Jim
I'm going to try to share some of my vinyl experience. Hopefully it will answer some questions. And, I'm always open to suggestions, so for those with better techniques or ideas, please share your thoughts.
Keep in mind, my planes are not contest winners. They look good from a couple of feet and in the air. I'm sure someone could take vinyl wrapping a foam plane to levels beyond what I am doing, so consider what I am sharing as a base for what you can do.
In 2011 I wrapped my first plane, a Hobbyzone Super Cub, just to make it look a little better. The film did cover the foam cells well and made the plane look less like a flying picnic cooler. The unexpected benefit I learned was just how well the vinyl film protects the foam. Actions like putting it in and taking it out of the car had meant chips and gouges of the foam, and my learning to land had caused more than one crack in the wings. I discovered the wrap meant the day to day bumps didn't end in me having to glue divots of foam back into holes in the plane and I am sure the vinyl can be credited with keeping the wing in one piece during a couple of embarrassing encounters with the ground.
The vinyl I use is by Oracal. It is a peel and stick film, much like the vinyl decals we are all used to putting on our planes. My first wraps were done using Oracal 651 Series vinyl film. I was happy with the product and I actually still have a plane wrapped with it. At the suggestion of an Oracal employee, I tried their 751 Series film and have been using it since. The 751 costs more, but it is thinner, which makes it easier to work around curves, as well as making it a little bit lighter. Regarding weight, I have actually removed a few square foot pieces of 751 Series film from its backing and rolled it up into a small ball to weigh it. It varies slightly by color but expect it to add about 12 to 18 grams per square foot of covering.
The vinyl takes most paints well and you can draw panel lines on it with a Sharpie paint marker. I have painted vinyl on a couple of occasions to achieve a specific look. Just keep in mind you are adding the weight of the vinyl and the paint.
When starting I make sure the plane is clean. If I am applying film to bare foam I clean the foam with alcohol. If the model has cast in panel line, I generally fill them with light weight spackle like DAP Fast N Final, then sand smooth. You can also cover a painted plane. Keep in mind the vinyl is thin and lighter colors such as white or yellow may allow the underlying paint to show through. I have removed entire factory paint jobs from EPO with acetone. Make sure to test a drop on an inconspicuous area before using any harsh chemicals on foam.
Once the plane is prepped, I start on the bottom at the back of the plane. By working rear to front, any overlaps are rearward facing and shouldn't be lifted by air passing over them. Where possible, I use the piece being covered as a template, making sure to make the vinyl larger than the piece being covered so I have vinyl to wrap around the edges. I have found the temptation to cut a single big piece to cover a large area usually ends in wrinkles at best, or ruining the piece altogether at worst. I've learned to cut my pieces in manageable sizes.
When covering curves, such as the tail end of a fuselage, wing tips or wing roots, I use small pieces. This reduces the likelihood of wrinkles. For large rounded wing tips I cut several slits in the outer edge of the film making series of tabs. Then starting at the rear, I press down each tab individually and this will eliminate most wrinkles. Do the bottom of the wing first, you can then trim the vinyl that is visible on the top of the wing with a sharp hobby knife, and when you cover the top of the wing the vinyl will look cleaner as it wraps around the edges of the wing. If I find I am going to have a wrinkle in a curved area, I will cut a slit in it with a sharp hobby knife. Stretching it as you lay it down with your finger will generally eliminate wrinkles. You can use much larger pieces when covering flat or nearly flat areas, remembering to keep them manageable.
If you are working with bare foam, you can usually reposition the vinyl once and it will stay put. If you are covering paint and try to remove the vinyl, it will probably remove the underlying paint with it and not be repositionable.
When covering small details or tight curves, you can use very light heat to help the vinyl snuggle down. Something to remember, vinyl reacts differently to heat than coverings you may be accustomed to using. Unlike Monokote which shrinks when it is heated, vinyl will soften, allowing it to be stretched tight over details and curves. The vinyl will shrink slightly, but not like more traditional model plane covering films.
When I have used heat, it is very low. I use a Hanger 9 covering iron set to its lowest setting to work vinyl into tight crevices or curves. I will also use it to reduce wrinkles on wing tips.
Working a couple of hours in the evening, I can cover a 1400mm plane in a week or so. Take your time and you should be able to have your first attempt look pretty good.
I purchase my vinyl on line from U S Cutter (http://www.uscutter.com/ ), they have a good variety of colors and options to buy their 651 and 751 series film by the foot or by the roll. You may find other vendors on line or you may even find a sign maker in your area that will sell you vinyl. Also, I’m sure 3M makes similar vinyl film, but I have never used it so I can’t comment on how well it would work for wrapping model planes.
I have been extremely pleased with the results of this technique. The vinyl doesn't completely hide the cell structure of foam, but it helps make it less obvious. The colors are vibrant and the vinyl stays on foam much better than paint and provides protection to foam paint can't. The vinyl will even stay on foam after being water soaked, as my Flyzone Beaver on floats and HK Skipper XL will attest. It is a relatively easy way to make your planes stand out among all the other foamies at your flying field.
Jim
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