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Coverting Protor Antic to electric

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  • Coverting Protor Antic to electric

    Click image for larger version  Name:	vivs pics 3 212.jpg Views:	1 Size:	214.4 KB ID:	91452




    Any sugestions on Motor size, esc, battery, to covert My Antic to electric Running a os 61 in it now.






    Click image for larger version  Name:	vivs pics 3 215.jpg Views:	1 Size:	190.1 KB ID:	91448

  • #2
    Put a Saito 4 cycle with bad timing. Would sound way cooler! :Cool:

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    • #3
      Lol 61 sounds good with the pits on it but tired of messing with nitro

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      • #4
        Simple...Find a plane with the same weight and wing span on MRC. Go to "parts" and pick out the ESC and motor for that plane. This is what I do with all my balsa/ply ARF's. Has never failed me. I prefer FMS. Doc

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        • #5
          By the way...Am I mistaken or was the Maltese cross used in WW1? Not the Swastika. Your WW1 plane seems to have WW2 markings. Doc

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          • #6
            Here's a guys advice to someone else.



            I also found this as a reference:

            50-70 watts per pound; Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models.
            models

            70-90 watts per pound; Trainer and slow flying scale models.

            90-110 watts per pound; Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models

            110-130 watts per pound; Advanced aerobatic and high speed models

            130-150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans.

            150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D models.


            I haven't done any of these so can't verify there validity.

            BB

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            • #7
              Originally posted by doctormike View Post
              By the way...Am I mistaken or was the Maltese cross used in WW1? Not the Swastika. Your WW1 plane seems to have WW2 markings. Doc
              I know it was just kinda a joke you cant see it but hitler is flying it

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              • #8
                Thanks It helps

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Beeg View Post
                  Here's a guys advice to someone else.



                  I also found this as a reference:

                  50-70 watts per pound; Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models.
                  models

                  70-90 watts per pound; Trainer and slow flying scale models.

                  90-110 watts per pound; Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models

                  110-130 watts per pound; Advanced aerobatic and high speed models

                  130-150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans.

                  150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D models.


                  I haven't done any of these so can't verify there validity.

                  BB
                  Beeg........I have and you can bank on it. ;)Both of those references was the foundation I used when I got back into this sport using electrics instead of huffin nitro fumes.
                  Warbird Charlie
                  HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190

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