Maidened my Shrike this morning. Cloudy but very calm. What an easy flying airplane! After reading other comments I did use Locktite on the spinner and had no problems. Balanced perfectly with an Admiral 2200 3 Cell. I think it would be difficult to find a place to install a stabilized receiver or gyro, but the plane really doesn't need one.
Thanks for sharing, GB! I agree that the wire-less wing Connectors are a very convenient feature of this Glider. I like how it can break down in seconds to fit back in the box. Although, I normally only remove one wing for transport. That's enough to give me the space I need in the car to transport it alongside other models, such as the upcoming FlightLi--- oops, nevermind.
You're welcome and thank you for sharing another Easter Egg
I was able to get out and fly this glider today (I haven't slept yet). It is a great flying plane that I will be flying a lot in the coming months!
Enjoy the views everyone
This video features the new Skynetic Shrike 1450mm Sport Glider Maiden Flight Review. Link to the Skynetic Shrike Sport Glider: http://bit.ly/ShrikeGliderMRC...
Thanks for sharing, GB! I agree that the wire-less wing Connectors are a very convenient feature of this Glider. I like how it can break down in seconds to fit back in the box. Although, I normally only remove one wing for transport. That's enough to give me the space I need in the car to transport it alongside other models, such as the upcoming FlightLi--- oops, nevermind.
This video features the new Skynetic Shrike 1450mm Sport Glider Unboxing & Review. Link to the Skynetic Shrike Sport Glider: http://bit.ly/ShrikeGliderMRC Jo...
I just used a drop of Blue Loctite 242 on the metal-to-metal prop/adapter connections. Luckily, I discovered this "hard-braking-spin-off" problem during workshop bench testing. No problems in the field since adding the threadlocker.
Just ordered mine - looking forward to everything except the brake / prop spin-off issues.
Does anyone know if the included ESC can be reprogrammed for soft braking instead of the hard brake?
Soft braking "might" take care of the in-flight prop-spinner separation (that, or maybe a prop/spinner design change...)
the way this adapter works is the spinner is supposed to compress the rear face of the adapter against the front face of the collet on the motor shaft when you grab the rear of the motor housing and manually screw down the spinner as hard as possible.. BUT even with it extremely tight.. the prop itself was still spinning and very choppy since it was slipping internally between the collet and the prop adapter inner surface..
That is until I found a washer that fit over the end of the shaft and rested against the front face of the collet and that added thickness of about 1/16th inch in the washer now allows a tight squeeze between the prop adapter’s cylindrical rear surface and hold the assembly together while under torque…
Clear as mud to me. Could you please break up the run on sentences into several simpler sentences. And the best would be a photo or 2 of your fix.
This essentially was a question I had prior to buying my Shrike. Getting no feedback about such a configuration, I went ahead & bought the plane. In looking at the actual plane, I could see a problem for me in trying to mount even the combined receiver/gyro (Admiral RX600SP) in the fuselage behind the battery mainly because I'm all thumbs and being able to easily change the Combo setting once it is installed presented another issue, although as simply a trainer you might just stay with one combo, eg. the "gyro on/recovery" mode. So I went with a Spektrum AR620, which avoids an external antenna, and velcroed it in to simply installation; however, there is no gyro feature in this receiver. I would say to take a close look at the space to determine how it might be done with gyro assist. A simple solution might be to cut a hatch in the top of the fuselage in order to access the space and more easily secure the gyro & receiver. Please let us know how it works out.
I don't have one of those gyros, but given the space inside of it and the battery size flexibility, I don't see why not. Given how this is designed, I am not sure a gyro is needed anyhow.
Join this installment of Hump Day RC With GBLynden where we will unbox Skynetic Shrike 1450mm Sport Glider Unboxing & Other Fun With GB! Don't miss it at 6:3...
Hey guys! I will be doing a livestream unboxing with this beautiful RC Glider on my YouTube channel this Wednesday at 6:30PM PST/9:30PM EST! My show is called Hump Day RC with GBLynden and I cannot wait to tear into this box live for everyone!
Join this installment of Hump Day RC With GBLynden where we will unbox Skynetic Shrike 1450mm Sport Glider Unboxing & Other Fun With GB! Don't miss it at 6:3...
Thanks, Jims123 , for your findings and feedback. Let us know how you like your Shrike's flight character after you've programmed your custom crow settings!
NAV135 Thanks for the feedback.. Here's another thing to look out for ..
I just sent this to the Tech staff in regard to a ticket on a intermittently noisy / choppy erratic prop spin that we thought was due to an ESC issue.. it's not..
I was able to figure it out myself..
You might want to make note of this cause it WILL definitely happen to others I bet..
The problem below with the loud noise and jerky prop spin was not in the ESC or the motor but in the design of the prop adapter ..
the way this adapter works is the spinner is supposed to compress the rear face of the adapter against the front face of the collet on the motor shaft when you grab the rear of the motor housing and manually screw down the spinner as hard as possible.. BUT even with it extremely tight.. the prop itself was still spinning and very choppy since it was slipping internally between the collet and the prop adapter inner surface..
That is until I found a washer that fit over the end of the shaft and rested against the front face of the collet and that added thickness of about 1/16th inch in the washer now allows a tight squeeze between the prop adapter’s cylindrical rear surface and hold the assembly together while under torque…
The prop is no longer spinning freely as the motor shaft turns.. and the ESC PROP and MOTOR are noise free Please close this ticket..
Please let Bradley know the ESC Throttle zero threshold level Video he sent me a link to in chat was interesting but had no bearing on my problem.
If you could tell me what Brand and type of ESC and the proper settings for it in addition to BRAKE ON, I’d appreciate that info. V/r jimS
Hope it helps others that might have the same noisy/ chattering prop issue later..
Overall I really like this Shrike a LOT.. it's a great trainer.. it's very maneuverable , this when you deploy flaps down it really jumps UP quickly without some ELvator compensation... What I need to do next is set it up for CROW.. and the way the Y cables are designed that's VERY easy to do..
Regards, JimS
jimS, I share your concern about not having an instruction manual in the box (the first model I have had that happen) although the assembly video did a pretty good job of explaining the assembly. Like your plane my elevator and rudder servo lead labels were reversed, and upon assembly and initial motor run (in my hangar) with the spinner on as tight as I could get it with my hand, the prop flew off when I cut the throttle. I was aware of this problem upon reading another review but I find it unacceptable for a quality model. One reviewer suggested using Locktite but I didn't want to use that if possible. Since my TX (DX8) has a "Speed" adjustment under the Servo Setup Function, I moved my throttle Speed from "normal" to "2 secs." This means it slows the servo response time from instantaneous to 2 seconds giving a more gentle slowing of the prop and keeping it attached to the plane. (I do hope Skynetic will address this problem and modify the spinner assembly as necessary.) I hope this helps if your TX has some kind of speed adjustment. Otherwise, it may have to be Locktite.
Also, I had trouble attaching the servo pushrod clips on this model as I am used to larger diameter rods and clips which are easier with my fat fingers. I had to use a pin-nose pliers to get them fully clipped. You will usually feel/hear a snap when they do clip fully in place. With the thin wire pushrods on the Shrike be careful, however, not to bend the rods if you use pliers.
BTW good luck to you and your grandson as you introduce him to the the absolute joy of flying airplanes, whether full scale or RC. I can tell by the look on his face in your photo that he truly is pilot material and should go far in the field of aviation, if he so chooses! Happy landings!
Ridgerunner,
Thanks for posting this.. That's a pretty snazzy bright orange .. wow..
I initially assumed that these little brackets might snap on too, but perhaps I didnot press hard enoughjt or something cause Mine would not stay in place so I would up using some blenderm tape to hold them on till I can get some proper fuel line or get them to snap on one.. I'll have to try again and see if they will snap on place firmly... Its all the more reason Motion RC's Build video should have addressed how to apply these things properly without covering it with fat fingers in a 2 second clip showing how to do it..
The punctures in your foam alongside show the other beef I have which is the type of foam in these planes.. They are made of super frajile and brittle foam. it's definitely NOT EPO or EPP or anything more durable, it's more like Styrofoam and it's very easy to scratch/ ding crack or put depressions in it.. I've ordered another set of Wings for mine since I can see these aren't going to last .. my typical LZ's here in San Diego are tiny, and are full or boulders trees and tough brush if I'm not right on target with the landing..
..
I have another concern .. The maiden flight yesterday went fantastic, but only lasted 20 seconds before I dropped the throttle and as the BRAKE applied it apparently de-spun the spinner .. I never did find it after gliding in but the collet was still on really tight onto the motor shaft via the 1.5mm grub screws . only the spinner had loosened up and fell into the tall brush below.
I've asked support why this happened cause I'm sure it was screwed on tight onto the collett threads and yet still came right off in flight.. Is there supposed to be a Nut or something else to hold that spinner in place? I've got a ticket into tech support but am mentioning it here since others may experience the same problem with these spinners ..
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