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Freewing Mirage 2000C V2 “Tiger Meet” 80mm EDF - Official Thread
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Originally posted by Grumpyrcflyer View PostAnyone got a Stl for 80mm afterburner plz.
These are mounts to attach LED lamps to various EDF fan motors. The file names describe which ones. The 90mm_39 dual mount is customized for the Freewing Eurofighter with the 39mm inrunner motor, the 80mm dual is for the E Eflite F-4 Phantom and the 70mm dual is for the FMS F/A-18, although they should fit other twin tailpipe models with the same motors. The adapter "Short_Dual_FMS..." fits the FMS Rafale which has very limited space behind the motor..Most of the adapters are clamped to inrunners using a cable tie. If it says "screwon" then it is specifically for the Freewing 29mm or 36mm inrunner motors, and is less bulky (so recommended for lower drag).)If a spec looks like 90_40mm it means a 90mm fan with a 40mm inrunner motor, etc..With the exception of the special B-1B adapters (see below) if a file contains "screwon", V2", "V3" or "V4" in its filename it is specifically for the lamp listed here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3Z1K3B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are only $2 each if a 10-pack is purchased, and they are very bright.Otherwise they are for the lamps listed in the following article:https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3313547-Making-an-inexpensive-EDF-centerburner for details.Make sure lamps and adapters are securely attached and that all wiring is secured so it can't get sucked into the fan. I have added a small converter so that the different lamps in the link below can be used with the earlier adapters. You will need to remove the yellow plastic part and glue the bulb to the converter, which then fits the EDF adapter.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3Z1K3B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1The adapter "Dual Flickr 70_30mm V2 FMS PRO inrunner.stl" is for a single 70mm fan with 30mm motor and with twin exhausts (FMS F/A-18) and has a divider between the lamps so they can flicker independently without bleeding too much into the other tailpipe.The ArrowsRC Mig29 and F-15 adapters do NOT fit onto the EDF motor. It goes in the tailpipe 1mm behind the motor - see the blog description. There is a spacer that can be used to precisely locate the adapter 1mm behind the motor - remove after attaching the adapter in the tailpipe.The 64mm F-16 adapter was created by Martin T and is described here:https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=45701171&postcount=331 The 70-30 B-1B adapters are for the XFly (Banana Hobbies) B-1B. The motor wires exit slightly to the side, so the hole in the adapter is offset to suit and you will need to make right and left handed versions It also is designed for the narrow LED lamps to minimize obstruction to the airflow in the narrow exhaust ducts. It is also short due to the limited space behind the motor. There are three slightly different versions.
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12 has a better sound and 9 is more efficient. I like both the old 1850 12b and the newer 1920 9b.
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Brought the Mirage a couple of years ago
It came with a 12 blade inrunner motor
I now see it comes with a 9 blade inrunner motor ( most of the new EDF now have 9 blade motors )
What is the main difference between a 12 blade motor and a 9 blade motor and why have Freewing now drop the 12 blade motor in favour for a 9 blade motor ???
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Yes, the spring can be in one of two stable "bowed" positions when the door is open, one of which prevents the gear from operating properly. Once I figured that out I now check that the spring is in the correct position before takeoff.Originally posted by xviper View PostThat spring doesn't need to be "straight across" the opening. It normally has a "bow" in it. Your spring may simply be bowed in the wrong direction. You should play with the attachment points to see if you can change how the bow is orientated. Look at the last page of the photos in this thread and it should give you some idea of how it should look.
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Thanks, will do!Originally posted by xviper View PostThat spring doesn't need to be "straight across" the opening. It normally has a "bow" in it. Your spring may simply be bowed in the wrong direction. You should play with the attachment points to see if you can change how the bow is orientated. Look at the last page of the photos in this thread and it should give you some idea of how it should look.
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That spring doesn't need to be "straight across" the opening. It normally has a "bow" in it. Your spring may simply be bowed in the wrong direction. You should play with the attachment points to see if you can change how the bow is orientated. Look at the last page of the photos in this thread and it should give you some idea of how it should look.Originally posted by 50 Fly View PostHaven't read the whole thread, just wondering how guys are keeping the nose gear door from closing prematurely. Had 3 good flights on a new plane, no problems except the NG door. Tried throttling back after take off, but my guess is the door closes with takeoff speed. Repeated cycling doesn't help because the door's closed. The angle of the spring holders seems to prevent the spring from being straight across the opening, which would really help keep the door open. Ideas please! And thanks
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I check the spring position as part of my preflight. I haven't had a door problem since I started doing that.Originally posted by 50 Fly View PostHaven't read the whole thread, just wondering how guys are keeping the nose gear door from closing prematurely. Had 3 good flights on a new plane, no problems except the NG door. Tried throttling back after take off, but my guess is the door closes with takeoff speed. Repeated cycling doesn't help because the door's closed. The angle of the spring holders seems to prevent the spring from being straight across the opening, which would really help keep the door open. Ideas please! And thanks
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Haven't read the whole thread, just wondering how guys are keeping the nose gear door from closing prematurely. Had 3 good flights on a new plane, no problems except the NG door. Tried throttling back after take off, but my guess is the door closes with takeoff speed. Repeated cycling doesn't help because the door's closed. The angle of the spring holders seems to prevent the spring from being straight across the opening, which would really help keep the door open. Ideas please! And thanks
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He hasn't been back since May. I can fit up to a 5200 in mine (or up to a 4000 8S). Batteries change all the time and he usually tests a tiny sample size so you have to take his info under advisement too. Don't assume that because a manufacturer has a good (or bad) battery that all their batteries are good. I won't bother telling you what batteries I use.
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Hi,Originally posted by RC Ari View PostConfused about my Mirage tiger meet PNP version
Hello, I'm confused about what power system version I have in my plane, after unsuccesfull try to takeof from grass (I could take of my FW Jak 130 70mm) I put attention of my power system.
the manual had a detached foil saying that I had 80mm 9blade edf with 3658-1920KV motor, I have verified that the ESC is a 100 Amp ESC, but the EDF has 12 blades.
I could not check the motor KVs as it is covered by the edf housing, it is inrunner.
Having a 12 blade EDF and the inability to mantain a hover makes me think that I have received a non High performance version.
I would like your thoughts about it, and if it is not the high performance version what should I do, contact the seller or contact freewing
thanks in advance.
This has probably solved itself in some way, but the 12 blade inrunner is afaik the highest thrust producing version. It was changed to the 9 blade version that gives a little more top end (speed) performance but less static thrust. I would make sure the batteries are up for the task and have the correct size. 4Ah is the max and then have a look at the link below where the best and worst "5Ah" 6S batteries are tested. That thread is the basis for all my battery buys and is made of OBJECTIVE TESTING, instead of the standard "I have the best equipment, get the same as me".
If it doesn't hover then, maybe change timing on the ESC.
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hi guys
some news of my m2000
first flight two days ago
controls travels were much too high, i'll put 7mm ail and 13mm elev with a lot of expo 40pc at least for next flight.
as soon as i can take off again, because front landing gear decided to retract at each new attempt.
some vids
i decided to fix the landing gear. what i did:
i saw that the kind of metal nut that goes fwd and aft on the screw to actuate the strut's fork was moving a little too much aft when extending and so permits the fork to pass over it and then retract.
it is visible as there are marks on the nut.
so i glued a little piece of plastic in order to actuate the stop switch a little sooner and the it is harder for the fork to pass over.
i also noticed that the screw is moving aft and fwd a little, and with vibes i guess it moves and then facilitate the fork to pass over the nut.
i then glued two pieces of plastic so the nut push on it when actuating switch and then don't move anymore.
i hope this fix will be enough and allow me to take off again.
here are some pics of the fix
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