Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread
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You dont see it in the video but I did cut a bunch of foam out because of the issue you mentioned. I will double check it when I get home but I may put the wire gear back on. They work and I dont have issues with the -
I had those on mine. There are a couple of things you have to do to get around the problem your video showed. First, the reason why they seem to get stuck in the "raised" position is that the strut/tire hits the roof of the wheel well and prevents the retract from reaching the "end" contact switch. That's why if you push on the strut, you help it get to the end stop and it deploys. By reaming out or hollowing out some material where the tire makes contact, the end stop can be reached. You will know that you have removed enough material when the tire can be rotated freely.
Next, on mine, the wheel well cover openings weren't quite allowing the assembly to move in and out without some impedance. I used mini-scissors to cut away the offending bits to open up the hole.
However, lastly, that wasn't my only problem. Because the trailing links were mounted on the retract pin a bit off center, every time the thing rolled on the ground (take off and landing), the force of the ground (vibrations) tried to "straighten" out the strut. I did finally resolved this but it involved grinding a very distinct flat and in the exact needed location so the hex screws would grab and keep the strut in the correct orientation. This also wasn't enough. The strut worked itself loose easily and it wasn't till I used some FoamTac on the grub screws AND in the hole of the strut itself that it stayed put. By then, I got very good at belly landing, so didn't use the gear when coming down. By the time I started at a new field where there was a prepared runway, I had sold the plane.
I now have the 90mm Yak 130 and because of the huge stock trailing link retracts and wheels, no mods are needed and those work flawlessly.Leave a comment:
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I lied. They are trash. Mine keep getting jammed and dont come out. Its a clearance issue with the retract.Leave a comment:
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The link gear are nice, if you put the time into them. I cut the wire and bolted them on with the 4 set screws. It came loose instantly. I tried to glue them in with the setscrews. Locktite alone was no good either. If you take the time to notch the wire gear it should stay in place.Leave a comment:
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RC Castle used to sell an optional trailing link gear set but those were hard to lock down. They kept turning out of alignment and caused jamming when retracting. They are no longer available.
I put on the trailing links to help with the bouncy landings but doing a belly landing on the grass was a far better solution.Leave a comment:
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Has anyone changed out the easily bendable gear with stronger wire?
RichLeave a comment:
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Super smooth this afternoon so I flew the YaK. Stayed in the pattern and made one takeoff with 7 touch and goes with one full stop. Left the gear down and flaps full and man this little airplane is rock solid. Turning base to final reminds me of my fellow airman turn final on the ship... nose high power up, awesome. Started with a full battery and when done I was only at 60%. Super cool little plane!
RichLeave a comment:
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Appreciate the info on the gyro gain. Two flights today on a super smooth day and no wingtip waggle.
RichLeave a comment:
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I found moving the cg forward a bit helped with the tail wag, I dont use gyros. It can be more pronounced on a windier day but I dont think the large vertical stabilizer and short body and rear moment arm help either. I tend to fly this model on the calmer days and keep the speed up when flying crosswindLeave a comment:
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I agree it sounds like gyro... Also this plane does have a pronounced tail wag, especially when it's windy.Leave a comment:
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You should mention these things. 50% gain on most external gyros is way too much, especially on jets. Internal gyros like on the Spektrum AS3X receivers, you might get away with 50%, but barely.Leave a comment:
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Yes I am using a gyro. I suspected the gyro, however, with the search I was thinking no. It is set at 50% gain right now but will set at 30% and test that.Are you using a gyro? What you described is typical of too much gyro gain on the roll axis. If you aren't using a gyro, perhaps using one will cure the wingtip "dance". Just keep the gain low (<30%).
No, I have not experienced this with or without a gyro unless the gain is too high.
Thanks, RichLeave a comment:
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Are you using a gyro? What you described is typical of too much gyro gain on the roll axis. If you aren't using a gyro, perhaps using one will cure the wingtip "dance". Just keep the gain low (<30%).Hello everyone with a YaK130,
Made three flights this morning with my new YaK. The plane flies well though I have noticed a wing tip dance at the tip at a higher speeds. This to me appears to be aileron flutter of which I have true life experience in an experimental I built. Just like the real thing pulling the power back made it go away. Question: has anyone else experienced this. BTW I’ve looked through as many posts as I cared for and couldn’t find anything, however, an internet search pulled up videos of exactly what I had.
Rich
No, I have not experienced this with or without a gyro unless the gain is too high.Leave a comment:
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Hello everyone with a YaK130,
Made three flights this morning with my new YaK. The plane flies well though I have noticed a wing tip dance at the tip at a higher speeds. This to me appears to be aileron flutter of which I have true life experience in an experimental I built. Just like the real thing pulling the power back made it go away. Question: has anyone else experienced this. BTW I’ve looked through as many posts as I cared for and couldn’t find anything, however, an internet search pulled up videos of exactly what I had.
RichLeave a comment:
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I can't even imagine a Mirage on 8s. My old eyes and reflexes wouldn't be able to cope. No falling asleep flying that one. :scream:Leave a comment:
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Well said... I've had three Mirages from the first slower one to the newer inrunner and even one on 8S. I've had two Yaks and a spare in a box incase and they have been on a XRP/2200 set up for a bit more power. Love them both...Leave a comment:
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I've had the FW Yak 130, 70mm (and currently the FW Yak 130, 90mm on 8s) and currently have the Mirage 2000 (latest version) on floats for winter flying. However, I've had the first version of the Mirage (less powerful) that I flew off the retracts and also as a hand launcher. Both fly well but the Mirage (either iteration) is fast and twitchy and is harder to dial down even with lower rates and high expo. It rolls like a drill bit if the rates are not low enough and even then, it wants to roll. It flies much better with a gyro with optimized gain. Of the two, the Mirage tends to land smoother on its wheels.
The little Yak, on the other hand, is very stable and although I can't say that's it's exactly "slow", its speed is more manageable in that there isn't such a fine line between too low and too high of rates. The Yak can be a bouncy lander on its wheels, even with upgraded trailing links on the mains. I find it lands beautifully on it's belly on the grass.
I have the Mirage "Tiger Meet" version at present but that big tiger decal tends to be non-distinct at speed and once it gets a couple hundred feet away. The Yak, though, with its bright red paint, is very easy to track even far out. My preference is for the Yak (that's why I got the big one). If they ever made a big Mirage, I would pass on it.
Having said all that, these two planes are different birds altogether and anything said about either one is personal. If you like them both, eventually, you'll have them both.Leave a comment:
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I think it best I leave the detailed answers to those who fly both, I have the Yak 130 70mm which is easy to fly, I dont have the Mirage but I am pretty sure its a different animal altogether. In terms of skill level I am also pretty sure the Yak is a lot easier to fly.Leave a comment:


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