Official Freewing 70mm Yak-130 Thread

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  • jetpltrich
    replied
    My ole YaK-130 has withstood the test of time and punishment. I have logged many many flights with this bird and it's still so much fun to fly. I was so sick of the red paint scheme I cleaned her up, spackled the awful panel lines and threw some leftover F-16 paint on her. Three gyro settings: up, takeoff, and landing. The highest gain setting is on the approach to landing phase of flight, upwards of 70%. She settles in so rock solid even with wind it's absolutely awesome. Two flights out at the airport today, fun!

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  • Nightshadow
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D
    Yes. An adapter is okay but it’s better to solder the correct connectors on it.
    Thanks

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  • Evan D
    replied
    Yes. An adapter is okay but it’s better to solder the correct connectors on it.

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  • Nightshadow
    replied
    Im considering buying the yak 130 in 2026, is it still any good? If so is it safe to use whit a adapter

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  • Niceguy9605
    replied
    I'm a new guy on the thread and was wondering about Yak 130 6S flap to elevator mixing that you guys are using and happy with. My new Freewing Yak 130 arrives today and i am gathering info
    on the jets D/R likes and Flap to Elevator mixing. Any info would be helpful. Thanks

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  • rc.wingdinger
    replied
    Thanks for the help guys. Now I know what to try! The GPS setup sounds very good, how do you have that set up?

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  • jetpltrich
    replied
    Hi out there in Yak land. I realize this jet has been around a while and is a proven design. I inherited a wreck that needed a new fuse, and finally they came in stock. Issue I have is landing. Bounces like crazy! I have the wire gear, flying off pavement, admiral 3700 6 cell. Landing with 1/2 flaps. Landing with very low thottle. What am I doing wrong? Slowing down too much? Landing too fast? Too much flap? Too little flap? I have no problem with the elite 70mm viper.... But that's almost a trainer ... Any ideas anyone? Thx!
    Full flaps my GPS on a calm day with no wind barks out a speed of 35mph ever 5 seconds and that puts the YaK in a nice constant rate of decent to the runway and I just let her plop down no flare. Like xviper says I start the approach pretty far out and get speed attained and then hold that until touchdown. YaK-130, T-33, L-39 like 35mph, A-4, F-16, and I assume the F-4, will find out tomorrow, like 38-40mph, the A-10 seems to like 40-43mph, however, she’s a heavier and bigger plane. Speeds are ground speed so you have to know wind speed and make your adjustment from that. My YaK has trailing link gear and landing out of a constant rate of decent approach doesn’t hurt it at all. Variable wind speeds above 5mph and or gusty winds I use takeoff flaps for landing and carry a tad more speed or I simply won’t fly. Keep at it you’ll figure it out, the YaK is a fun plane to fly.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by rc.wingdinger
    Hi out there in Yak land. I realize this jet has been around a while and is a proven design. I inherited a wreck that needed a new fuse, and finally they came in stock. Issue I have is landing. Bounces like crazy! I have the wire gear, flying off pavement, admiral 3700 6 cell. Landing with 1/2 flaps. Landing with very low thottle. What am I doing wrong? Slowing down too much? Landing too fast? Too much flap? Too little flap? I have no problem with the elite 70mm viper.... But that's almost a trainer ... Any ideas anyone? Thx!
    This thing tends to be a bouncer with wire struts and even with trailing links, it can still bounce. It takes practice. Try it full flaps, keep throttle up a bit, plan the approach a longer way out, flare at just the right time.
    Do you have grass at the sides of the runway? If you do, clear tape the bottom, full flaps and belly land it on the grass.

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  • rc.wingdinger
    replied
    Hi out there in Yak land. I realize this jet has been around a while and is a proven design. I inherited a wreck that needed a new fuse, and finally they came in stock. Issue I have is landing. Bounces like crazy! I have the wire gear, flying off pavement, admiral 3700 6 cell. Landing with 1/2 flaps. Landing with very low thottle. What am I doing wrong? Slowing down too much? Landing too fast? Too much flap? Too little flap? I have no problem with the elite 70mm viper.... But that's almost a trainer ... Any ideas anyone? Thx!

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  • Gilatrout
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D
    I actually prefer the wire. I think they either offered the aluminum as an upgrade before or people tried to adapt the FMS ones. I remember that those that did had issues with them twisting because the set screws wouldn't hold. We all have preferences. With the FMS being $100 more (plus tax as Motion doesn't charge tax) you can buy the aluminum gear...
    No, the FMS gear won’t fit without major surgery due to a difference in geometry between the two models. I tried once.

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  • Evan D
    replied
    I actually prefer the wire. I think they either offered the aluminum as an upgrade before or people tried to adapt the FMS ones. I remember that those that did had issues with them twisting because the set screws wouldn't hold. We all have preferences. With the FMS being $100 more (plus tax as Motion doesn't charge tax) you can buy the aluminum gear...

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  • Gilatrout
    replied
    I like the green, but why didn’t you upgrade those awful wire gear struts? If you had, I would have ordered one. It’s a shame really.

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  • paulrkytek
    replied
    Having re arranged the molecules on my Yak 130 after an argument with a distant tree a couple of new wings and some filler and paint resulted in my Dirty Little Yak, this time complete with a couple of lights ( 5volt leds)in the vain hope it will assist with orientation.

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  • jetpltrich
    replied
    see post 169 above, i found wire mains and trailing link nose work best off grass so maybe quit while you are ahead
    Yea, I saw it. Made 6 T&L’s on my sod runway. The nose gear held up superbly though the left main is suffering... need to tighten the set screw. It is amazing to me that a better gear setup hasn’t been introduced. My landings aren’t greasers nor carrier types and they bend so easily. 🤔

    JPR

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  • paulrkytek
    replied
    Originally posted by jetpltrich
    Additionally, after removing the steering servo the W&B was spot on.

    JPR
    see post 169 above, i found wire mains and trailing link nose work best off grass so maybe quit while you are ahead

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  • jetpltrich
    replied
    Additionally, after removing the steering servo the W&B was spot on.

    JPR

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  • jetpltrich
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	339348 After numerous flights on my YaK and constantly adjusting the nose gear back straight (sod field) it fatigue cracked at the base of the retract assembly. I figured at some point in time this would occur and a replacement was necessary. Definitely stronger gear would facilitate more cycles than say 10 before it fatigue cracks and I sought out a solution this morning.

    I rummaged through my boxes of spare parts and came across the Beam of Death Venom gear. I looked carefully at the nose gear assembly and came to the conclusion it may work. I took the strut out of the main housing and compared it to the length of the YaK’s strut, less than a 16th an inch difference. I took the YaK’s retract assembly out and took it apart to modify the up/down housing main strut shaft hole so as to accept the Venom struts main shaft diameter. A 5/32 drill did the trick. I then shortened the Venom main shaft for clearance and press fit it into the up/down lock assembly from the YaK’s retract assembly. I accept the fact I will have no steering, however, I can set it in position and blast off as I often do anyway. I got some clearance issues out of the way and here are the results.

    Looking at what to do about the main gear, I’m think the OV-10 Main gear maybe a candidate.

    test flight sometime this week, will report!

    ​​​​​​​JPR
    Attached Files

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  • GoBrandon
    replied
    Has anyone found better landing gear that still retracts correctly?

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  • MeyerVW
    replied
    What i found is the strut hits the retract. The ends are thicker than the center and because of this the end part that comes in contact with the retract and the center does not connect with the sensor. I shaved down the strut a bit with the Dremel where they were contacting with the plastic of the retract. It works. I did have to shave some foam out as was recommended but that part was good. Trimmed the covers a bit. I did put a flat spot in the wire to help it from turning while landing. Tomorrow I will go test it out. Ill get a video later showing what my issues were.

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  • paulrkytek
    replied
    Originally posted by MeyerVW
    Video
    Looks like you need to cut out some foam to ensure clearance, Also you need short grub screws otherwise they hit the plastic servo holders and trigger the anti jam circuit. Have fun.

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