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Is is there an stl file for a mount, I think I got ahold of a free wing version versus the universal version but it's not going to fit in my F22 because I upgraded to the 12 blade fan inrunner.
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Hi Guys, fitted the flame light, afterburner light to my Avanti! very easy and looks great! I stuck alluminium tape in the exhaust duct and its very bright!! only thing is it comes on as soon as I move the throttle a little so is on all the flight, no adjustment so I don't know how to make it come on at about 30% ? ThanksComment
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See post #12, this thread, item 6.Originally posted by Yellowred View Post
I'm **guessing** that they just re-purposed an existing brushed motor controller, which would behave exactly this way.
Only way around it that I can see is if you have a spare channel, use a curve mix from throttle to that channel and plug the afterburner into it.
(Or you can use one of my controllers where the turn-on point is adjustable to wherever you want).Comment
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So I should send it back to Motion Rc? problem is with using your controller is that im in UKComment
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My controller is a design that you make yourself from components that are certainly available in the UK.Originally posted by Yellowred View Post
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...DF-afterburner
I can't advise on whether to send it back. The other workaround I suggested is if you have a spare channel, use a curve mix from throttle to that channel and plug the afterburner into it. The curve could be adjusted to make the AB turn on where you want it to.Comment
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ThanksComment
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Kinda disappointed in this. Threw one into my Gripen that has an ar8360t. It is on as soon as you plug it in. I have tried everything listed here besides adding another rx. Wouldnt mind if it came on at 10 percent as long as it wasn't on at zero throttle. Maybe I'm missing something. Gonna put it in my f16 tomorrow with an ar631 and see if I have any luck. Lesson learned.Comment
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Here's an inexpensive and fairly easy way to get it to turn on at 50% throttle or more (instead of 15%):
The following brushed ESC is almost completely compatible with the Tailflame lamps.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just a couple of simple modifications are needed to make it work. Some soldering is required:
(There are other sources of this ESC with various prices, but they all seem to be identical. They were originally made for R/C trucks and tanks, etc. Various brands seem to come in and out of stock but there always seems to be something available.)
It has a built in BEC too, which we definitely do NOT want since it is not up to the job of powering an EDF with retracts, servos, etc. The spec sheet shows a voltage limit of 9V when using the BEC, but it easily handles up to 16V (the 4S tap from the balance connector) when the BEC is disabled. The ESC current drawn is only 300mA rather than 10A that the controller is rated for.
The following steps are needed:
1. To disable the BEC simply cut the red wire in the “servo” lead that goes to the receiver. THIS IS IMPORTANT! The black (ground) and white (signal) wires should remain intact. This will be plugged into a Y connector to the throttle channel on the receiver.
2. The ESC will be powered by the red and black power input wires from the red male JST connector - you will need to connect these wires to the balance plug from the original controller. You can either cut off the original red JST male plug and solder the ESC power input directly to a LiPo balance plug, or make a simple adapter. You will need a red male plug later, in step 4 so I recommend cutting it off and saving it, and soldering the power input wires directly to the balance plug. (The gender of the plug is determined by the pins, not by the plastic housing. A male plug has pins that stick out, a female plug has sockets for those pins).
3. There is an on/off switch on the ESC. You can leave it in place or simply cut it off and connect the wires together so the ESC is permanently enabled.
4. The lamp will be plugged into the female JST connector from the ESC. Unfortunately the lead from the lamp is fitted with a female plug (a poor design decision). This means you will need to cut off the existing female JST plug on the lead from the lamp and replace it with the male plug you saved in step 2 above.
5. The ESC was designed for surface vehicles and has “forward” and “reverse” output, with "off" when the throttle stick is in the middle at 50%. The Tailflame LED lamp is insensitive to its input voltage polarity and will illuminate either way. If we just connect the ESC control lead to the throttle channel output with a Y connector, the LED will be full on at both zero throttle and full throttle and off in the middle. To prevent the LEDs coming on at low throttle Iyou need to insert a diode in the red lead from the ESC to the bulb (you can use either red or black lead, I used the red one for no particular reason). This blocks the current flow when the ESC output is “reverse”. Given that JR/Spektrum and Futaba use opposite throttle signal conventions (and I don’t know about Frsky, Taranis, Jeti, etc,) you will have to determine by trial and error which way around to connect the diode. You can’t damage anything by getting it wrong, you'll just light the LEDs at the wrong end of the throttle stick movement. Pretty much any diode with a current rating of 1A or more will work, even a dirt-cheap 1N4001 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
With the system connected up as described, the afterburner lamp is off when the throttle is below 50%, and progressively lights up as the throttle is advanced beyond this.Comment
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I got the free one (universal version) from RC Castle when I bought the Typhoon. It comes on at about 30% to 40%. In the Motion RC video, Wes said it should come on around 50%. Maybe there's some variation in the way the controller is set at the factory.Originally posted by WVfoambuster View Post
Did you do a throttle calibration in case that has anything to do with it?Comment
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I did not see anything about a throttle calibration on this. I have calibrated my esc.Comment
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When i say its on i dont mean 100%. It is lit up at idle i guess you would say. It does get brighter around 50%. But i wouldnt think it should be on at all at zero throttle. Kallend thanks i might have to try the esc method you are discribing.Comment
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Throttle calibration and ESC calibration is the same thing. If you've done it, then that's out of the equation.Originally posted by WVfoambuster View PostComment
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The "controller" on the tailflame is not adjustable, and comes on when the input PWM pulse > 1200 microseconds, which represents about 15% throttle from just about every brand of radio. It is not adjustable and has nothing to do with throttle calibration.Originally posted by xviper View Post
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I have edited post #29 to give step-by-step instructions. It took longer to type than to do the modification. I'll post video later.Comment
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Some photos showing the various steps described in the previous post:
, and here is a video showing the fix, with the lamp turning on at approx. 1500 microseconds, which would be 50% throttle.
https://youtu.be/YPt7kKDu_3oComment
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