TopRC P-51 build

[JFandL]

They get mounted right to the servo wing doors. before you drill your doors you may want to install them brackets to your servo. I found out that the brackets are not drilled the same. I think they hand drill them.

[benjack71]

They get mounted right to the servo wing doors. before you drill your doors you may want to install them brackets to your servo. I found out that the brackets are not drilled the same. I think they hand drill them.

I have installed the brackets to the servo's. They fit just fine. There is supposed to be tabs in the servo bay the brackets then attach to. There is no tabs on my model. So, i epoxied them to my doors. Now, I am thinking I will go ahead and put a bolt and cap nut in them. This is a picture of how they should be installed, with the tabs that should have been pre-installed at the factory.




This is how mine are installed due to the fact there was no tabs installed at the factory



Notice in the open servo bay there is no tabs. So, as you can see, i epoxied the brackets direct to the servo doors just like I would have wood blocks. Now, I am thinking about going back and drilling out a couple holes on each bracket/door and adding a small bolt and nylon nut.

[JFandL]

Yes that is what I was saying, adjust your servos so that the arms are out the hole slot. ( no binding mark the holes on your servo doors, make sure the brackets clear the main wing skin and the door will set flush before you drill. then drill, take the screws from outside of the door and screw into the brackets.

[benjack71]

flap and aileron servo installed and pictures of the engine to be used. I have to center the flap servo again before i install pushrod

[benjack71]

Yes that is what I was saying, adjust your servos so that the arms are out the hole slot. ( no binding mark the holes on your servo doors, make sure the brackets clear the main wing skin and the door will set flush before you drill. then drill, take the screws from outside of the door and screw into the brackets.

Servos installed on the left wing. Looks like i will not be able to just use a y connector for my flaps.

[JFandL]

Love the engine

[benjack71]

Last servo epoxied to the door. Get the linkage done, the flaps equal and start on the gear. The tail wheel install looks to be interesting to say the least.

[fhhuber]

Not sure how that plane does the tailwheel.

I got annoyed with a Hanger 9 1.50 size P-51's tailwheel, so I cut in and installed mounts for an electric retract, then modified that, ending up with a retracting tailwheel that goes forward and up (scale, but not quite in scale location due to issues with structure)

Will try an get meaningful pictures. I'm not good at that.

[benjack71]

Not sure how that plane does the tailwheel.

I got annoyed with a Hanger 9 1.50 size P-51's tailwheel, so I cut in and installed mounts for an electric retract, then modified that, ending up with a retracting tailwheel that goes forward and up (scale, but not quite in scale location due to issues with structure)

Will try an get meaningful pictures. I'm not good at that.

It has a retracting tail wheel with doors. Its somewhat like the FMS 1700MM Mustang actually. Its just going to be a pain because I have to pretty much build it and it uses pull pull system.

[benjack71]

Flap and aileron servos completed and installed. Not real happy about using two channels for the flaps. That is 3 channels used in the wings, 2 channels used for elevator,1 channel for throttle,1 channel for gear, 1 channel for rudder,1 channel for ignition cut on/out. That leaves me no channels left for any accessories at all. I had been thinking about installing tank drops. I have the eflight release system laying around that I never used. I do have a servo reverser on the way. I am going to try it in the flaps and see if it will work. Not real sure about using it. I have never used one and have heard bad things about using them. Will have to use a push rod for the choke, mounted in such a way I can access with my hand. Just not enough channels left on my DX9

[rifleman_btx]

Awe man! I hope you can minimize the channel usage in the radio so you can use one for the choke with the reversers. If not, I'm sure you can hide the choke rod somehow.:(

[benjack71]

Awe man! I hope you can minimize the channel usage in the radio so you can use one for the choke with the reversers. If not, I'm sure you can hide the choke rod somehow.:(

I know I can. I can just put it into the inside of the plane and access it under the canopy. The downside with that is, every time I get it to fire, i have to re-attach the canopy for the main start. Probably not a big deal once I get a tank of gas through it and start up is more dependable. The canopy hatch pops off with a simple latch system.

I got my flaps looking really good right now using two channels and the flap settings. I will try the reversing lead and set it up like that to see how it looks. Not real sure about the reversing lead. Will know more when I get a throw meter on them and see exactly how they are landing. Just eyeballing them, it looks like they are both spot on.

[rifleman_btx]

That aught to do fine, I've had a buddy use one of those with success, however that was a 9g servo, I'm sure a standard size one will be iffy at best. I too am thinking of getting one for the nose gear on my t28. Since I had to replace the steering servo for a second time. Got rid of the dinky little one and threw in a standard size servo. Problem solved. However had to run it on ch 7, so when I go for my fpv setup, I will have to try a reverser or somehow set it up to turn the camera with the nosegear at the same time... :Confused:

[OV10]

Ben - been using the Turnigy Signal Reversers with never a problem;)

[fhhuber]

My choice for reversing one out of 2 servos on a Y is to use digital servos that can be programmed to adjust reversing and travel range (and sometimes speed)

[benjack71]

My choice for reversing one out of 2 servos on a Y is to use digital servos that can be programmed to adjust reversing and travel range (and sometimes speed)

Yeah, I am kicking my self a little bit for not spending the extra hundred bucks and going with 5645mg digitals instead of the 645mg analog. The 645 has enough torque for what I am doing, but this situation pops up so here I am.

[benjack71]

Ben - been using the Turnigy Signal Reversers with never a problem;)

I saw some youtube stuff where the short one caused interference and the long one worked great. Most of the feed back I have got has been what you said. No problems. I think it will come down to what the throw meter says.

[Hardway]

Yeah, I am kicking my self a little bit for not spending the extra hundred bucks and going with 5645mg digitals instead of the 645mg analog. The 645 has enough torque for what I am doing, but this situation pops up so here I am.

Love the project.... I have used both the 645's for large planes, and the 5645's almost entirely for the giant warbirds and all have worked well with no issues ever! Good luck!!!

[fhhuber]

Not done often any more... the 645 can be reversed. It requires some decent soldering skill.

You have to reverse the wires on the motor and 2 wires on the position sensing pot.
Hitec used to do it for a small fee.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK_FdRTenl0

[benjack71]

Not done often any more... the 645 can be reversed. It requires some decent soldering skill.

You have to reverse the wires on the motor and 2 wires on the position sensing pot.
Hitec used to do it for a small fee.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK_FdRTenl0

I am familiar with that actually. I think the risk outweighs the reward in this case. To me, that would be a have to no choice situation. Right now, to be realistic, I am complaining about not having a spare channel for either a bomb drop or a choke servo. Its not the end of the world lol