I was attempting to take off on some grass and had a couple prop strikes... nothing serious all low speed stuff. Eventually gave up and gave it a toss to get her up and flying... it flew like before except it lost power pretty quick and I could tell something was wrong. I brought her in for a landing and when I walked over and picked her up she was smoldering.... low and behold the ESC burned up... just wondering if there is any correlation between the prop strike and the ESC burning up... 
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When you had your prop strikes did you immediately pull the throttle back or was the throttle advanced at all with the propeller stopped. -
The Detrum(Dynam) 30A ESC's have had a history of lackluster performance.
Most of their ESC's below 60A had linear BEC's which is not an efficient method of reducing the LiPo voltage for the +5Vdc Rx output.
Linear BEC's reduce the voltage via resistor circuitry which creates heat.
Most ESC's manufactured now have switching BEC's which don't produce heat and are more efficient regarding voltage sapping the LiPo.
Doubt that the prop strike had anything to do with the meltdown....more like old school crappy tech.
Would recommend the newer Skylord by Tomcat which is a Dynam brand and has the new tech.Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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Sorry....the days got away from me...phew! To answer your question oletimer....I IMMEDIATELY cut power..I would bet I even was able to cut it before the prop strike even happened...
OV10....thanks for that info....I was hoping somebody would say that about the old tech...
Thanks!Comment
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Installed the recommended new Skylord ESC....everything works but the motor....it just beeps and won't spin....motor must be shot....any recommendations for a motor?Comment
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If it is the slow every approx. 1 second beep then that it is an indication the new ESC is not happy with the throttle calibration.Originally posted by SgtArchie View Post
Motor is most likely fine so just redo the Tx throttle calibration and you should be fine.;)Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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For the motor to beep, the ESC and motor both have to at least partly function and it should be capable of turning the prop.
The ESC uses the motor as it it is a speaker to make the beep.
You can use a multimeter on resistance to compare resistance through the 3 "phases" of the motor and from windings to the core of the stator.
Disconnect motor from ESC
Should be high resistance (possibly infinite) from any of the 3 motor wire connections to the steel core inside the copper windings.
Should be equal (somewhat low its just a copper wire, but it might be long) resistance between any 2 motor connections.
That is a very basic motor health check.FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
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Did a resistance test on the motor and I was getting good readings.....maybe motor still good? Now to figure out how to program the ESC to operate it....I don't have a programming card....Comment
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Don't need a programming card, the standard ESC defaults should be fine.Originally posted by SgtArchie View Post
Do the standard throttle calibration required of all new Rx/ESC setups. ;)Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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It does not hurt to get the programming card...
There is always the beep code method for programming. (which is annoying, and why I always get the card)
There are other reasons than ESC and motor for you to not have adequate power.
Bad cell in the battery or not a full charged battery.
Bad connector acting as a high resistance
Power jumping phase to phase between motor and ESC (cover the little gap in insulation at the bullets between motor and esc)
Prop on backward... That is up to 60% loss of thrust.
FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
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Ok...finally figured out the problem....when the ESC originally burned up and the ESC was on fire I turned the plane upside down to let the battery fall out so I could grab it quick and pull out the esc....it also severed the cable to the receiver...BUT when I put in the new ESC I assumed the empty slot was the motor slot on the receiver....low and behold when I was checking connections AGAIN I realized I had the new transmitter plugged into the DATA/BIND port....DUH!
Anyway I put the ESC in the motor slot for the receiver and whala....the ESC went I to programming mode straight away and the motor works great....she's ready to fly again!
thanks guys!
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I bought a spit from Dynam about 2 years ago - was doing some close proximity low level flying when - you guessed it - the speed control fried....She stalled to the right and bent the motor shaft. Sat in my room for a year until I threw those garbage retracts away and just made her a 2 blade belly lander. Really a scale flying bird that can be a handful if the CG isn't right...
I set the ESC Brake on when flying bellies...Hopefully you get it to stop in the horizontal position.
Throw the ESC and retracts away and replace with any other brand - she'll be fine.Comment
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