Callie Graphics

Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

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  • jetfool
    replied
    The Birdcage’s are well photographed. I think we needed heroes at that point in time and the Marines were taking on the Japanese daily and slowly getting the upper hand. Which ever one you choose the many photos give you a good sense of the weathering that these planes had. Rex

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  • SanExup
    replied
    As I'm finding, there are quite few birdcage planes to model after. I still haven't decided but I'm finding some interesting stories along the way. And some better photos than I expected to be able to find.

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by SanExup
    Thanks!...a little tinkering will get it right. I'm glad I got the 3.5"ers. But it sounds like I better get the Robarts on....
    SE, I thank you and your choice to add the "Three point Fives" to your bent winged beauty is a good call.

    If you'd like, shoot me PM: I have an idea how you could dress those out a little.

    Best, LB

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  • jetfool
    replied
    SanExup,

    I made some bushings for Davegee,Elbee and myself from brass rod, 1/4” turned down and bored to fit the Robart wheels and stock axle. I think Elbee did a complete new wheel for his though. If you need a pair of bushings PM me your address and I will send you a pair. Mine spin freely on the axles and no wobble

    ​​​​​​ Best Regards, Rex

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  • SanExup
    replied
    Thanks!
    I found some answers that have pointed me in the right direction. A trip to the hardware store and a little tinkering will get it right. I'm glad I got the 3.5"ers.

    As for CG and rates I'm open to any input. But it sounds like I better get the Robarts on, choose my batteries, and probably add some weight. Or get a couple of new batteries to make up some weight in balancing, but I need to assess that. I have a few 6000's already, just need to see if those will work well and will read some more on what batteries people have settled on, mah wise.

    There's a lot of good information and examples, even going back a few years in this thread. You've done some great work LB!

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by SanExup
    Actually, what do you know, the search engine is functioning perfectly. And as I've been reading, I'm not alone in my quest to find the meaningful answers of how to handle the Robarts. Next I'll be searching for the most agreed upon CG and Rates. Cheers!
    SE, so you found an answer or do you still need an assist? Let me know. Best, LB

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  • SanExup
    replied
    Actually, what do you know, the search engine is functioning perfectly. And as I've been reading, I'm not alone in my quest to find the meaningful answers of how to handle the Robarts. Next I'll be searching for the most agreed upon CG and Rates. Cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • SanExup
    replied
    Thanks LB! I know you printed your wheels, but for others without a 3D printer what did you do in order to switch to Robart wheels? Did you pull the tires and use the stock wheel? Or did you find spacers or bearings to use the robart wheel? I'm finding the bushings thst come with the Robarts are too small, I suppose I can drill them, but the Robart wheel is not that attractive. I'm thinking I can trima and glue the Robart tire to the stock wheel but I fear the fitment will be wonky. What have you guys done?

    This is one of those times a printer is calling my name.

    jetfool I think as we get older our aging bodies remind us to take advantage of our time, while it's here and now. I never thought my eyesight or hearing would deteriorate, but SOB if it isn't going down hill quickly.

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Hey Gents, all the MG set/grub screws are M4 X something. I replaced all the MG Set screws. The Axle with M4 X 5mm and the others are M4 X 3mm. Bag of 50 is $7.00+/- USD at Amazon. Best, LB

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Yep, seems nowadays if I get on the floor it takes forever to get back up, then forget what I was looking for. Where did those youth days go

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  • SanExup
    replied
    Thanks guys! Yeah, pulled the set screws. I'll try the heat next, that's what it has to be. It's an F4 day, I put the Corsair aside and changed out the elevator servo on a Phantom.

    And good call on the inside the bag reminder. Nothing like crawling around the floor looking for c clips with tour readers on.

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Also dont just loosen it take it out to clear the flat rebate,, u will see when it does come out

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Set screw at the bot of the strut Click image for larger version

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  • jetfool
    replied
    Probably lock- tite holding it. Use a soldering iron or cigarette lighter to heat gently. Outside of wheel there is a small c-clip. I removed this to get my tire/wheel off. Put a plastic baggie over the tire so you don’t lose the c-clip. Guess how I know. 😂

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  • SanExup
    replied
    How the heck do you get the wheels off? I've taken out the set screws on the bottom of the retracts but I can't get the axles to budge. Is there a special trick or something I am missing?

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  • Elbee
    commented on 's reply
    And it could very well be that is a RAF thing or a later model A/C tire thing or absolutely no-thing. LOL. My newer version will be full across, but might include a tread design. We'll see how well the filament prints in detail. Figures crossed for sure. Best, LB

  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee

    Hey Rex, I get the same looks when I taxi around and shoot pictures in the driveway. "Ah, look kids, an ancient man with ancient toys."

    I have picked up a 'softer compound' filament that some of the on-road/off-road race car community are using for printing their own designs.

    I hope this will solve the 'ground loop' issue on paved surfaces that davegee experienced. I will resend that design to each of you when finalized.

    Best, Steve
    That would be great, Steve. And I would be more than happy to try out your latest design of the tail wheel. Funny thing, I was taken a little aback when I saw your tailwheel with the center section that did not touch the surface, but the outer parts did. I was not familiar with that design for a tailwheel, but figured you knew what you were doing.

    Well, I have been working on a 1/32 scale Mustang III model from Trumpeter for the new NASM WWII exhibit gallery, which is extremely detailed. And when I looked at the rubber tires that came with the kit, low and behold, the tailwheel tire looked just like yours! Kudos to you for that! I had always thought it was totally flat on the surface edge, like a racing slick, but indeed you were correct in your design!!👍👍👌👌

    Cheers

    Davegee

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  • f4u ausie
    replied
    I keep mine close to my driveway,, if my neighbor backs over one of them,, it will be ww3 in my street:rage:

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by jetfool
    Have Elbee’s tail wheel on. Neighbors looked at me strange but smiled at an old guy playing with his planes
    Hey Rex, I get the same looks when I taxi around and shoot pictures in the driveway. "Ah, look kids, an ancient man with ancient toys."

    I have picked up a 'softer compound' filament that some of the on-road/off-road race car community are using for printing their own designs.

    I hope this will solve the 'ground loop' issue on paved surfaces that davegee experienced. I will resend that design to each of you when finalized.

    Best, Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Thanks Davegee. Windy here still but did taxi tests up and down our neighborhood yesterday. Took video of it but not downloaded to here yet. You might get a chance to see what I look like if I can get it downloaded.
    Have Elbee’s tail wheel on and holding up elevator it didn’t bounce much on the blacktop or gravel driveway. Neighbors looked at me strange but smiled at an old guy playing with his planes

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