Hobby King 1875mm B-17G Flying Fortress V2

[Aros]

Boy isn't that the truth!

[borntoolate]

I was organizing my computer and found this video. It was taken by a friend. It is one of my favorites. I was flying the silver B-17.

https://youtu.be/w2Mcb2RJEVU

Bob

[themudduck]

My friend Jason took a video of me flying my Silver V1 from his drone, this was the first time he tried chasing an RC plane at our field. Its a little rough but we had fun.

I especially liked the slo-mo at 2:20... and the landing sequence at about 4:10. Probably because it was an awesome landing!

https://youtu.be/QIO8X3cfFPw?list=PL...tiPNvR66KTquad

[borntoolate]

My friend Jason took a video of me flying my Silver V1 from his drone, this was the first time he tried chasing an RC plane at our field. Its a little rough but we had fun.

I especially liked the slo-mo at 2:20... and the landing sequence at about 4:10. Probably because it was an awesome landing!

https://youtu.be/QIO8X3cfFPw?list=PL...tiPNvR66KTquad

Very cool video. Funny thing is the guy that took the video in my clip is also named Jason!

Bob

[Aros]

Good stuff gents! :Cool:

[disasterman]

I have what may seem like a stupid question. I just bought the HK B-17 1875mm v2. I was told I could use a single battery up to a 5000mAh, or two up to 3000mah, and opted for the two. I've been trying to find any information on HOW to install these batteries in the plane's battery bay, and can find nothing but one video, and the guy stacked them vertically on top of each other, narrow side up wide side facing the sides of the fuselage like in the first photo below. But he also installed the leads going toward the nose instead of aft towards the wiring to the ESC's, and installed his nose cone upside down so I don't want to risk taking his advice, LOL, and while he had it on an expensive balancer, he hadn't flown the bird yet and had no followup video.

I've read numerous threads about the center of balance on this plane, and while it seems to want to nose over on takeoff, that isn't really my issue. My issue is: How is the plane designed to have the batteries installed? The manual I downloaded shows nothing about how to place the batteries, nor does anything I can find anywhere else. Looking at the compartment, it seems to have a shape in the bottom that corresponds to either a single battery 5-1/2 inches laying flat, or if I cut some of those side "teeth" out, I could stack two flat and velcro them to the cavity, or place two vertically side by side in the same cavity.

They will fit in my plane stacked vertically like the guy in the video did, although doing so, they put quite a bit of pressure on the front tongue of the removable cockpit battery access hatch. They don't seem to be forcing the rear of the hatch up where the magnets are however (photo 2). Installed in this way they DO lock into place, and it is doubtful they would move, although it seems rickety to me and makes me nervous.

There's a couple bulkheads keeping the battery from moving aft from this position, but not fore. I plan on making the F model, so the hole where the chin turret goes on will be filled, and my intent was to cut the unrealistic looking flat black partition in the nose cone area out and install a scale bombardier and Norden bombsight. I was looking into all this because it affects what I do with the rest of the compartment.

Logic to me is "low and center" so stacking them up on edge like he showed seems to go against my natural instincts. The other possible ways of installing them are shown but all result in the same weight extending forward into the nose compartment. I've seen quite a few videos of this plane nosing over on takeoff attempts so was wondering from all of your experience if the battery placement is a factor or not.

All methods I can see, will extend the battery from roughly the rear of the cockpit hatch to 1-1/2 inches into the nose compartment.

The bay doesn't seem to be designed for them no matter what. Logic to me is "low and center" so stacking them up on edge like he showed seems to go against my natural instincts. Any advice appreciated.

[disasterman]

Any photos would be helpful as well.....

[quitcherbitchen]

Stack them like your doing with the leads facing aft. Also you don't need them perfectly aligned on top of one another. Off set the bottom from the top or whatever fits. The plane was originally designed for twin 2200s which may be smaller then what you have. I have a full cockpit in mine and use the 2200s. Other guys cut out the battery fins inside and lay the batteries flat side by side, but I haven't felt the need to do that.

[xviper]

Those "teeth", as you call them, was made like that so you can cut them to fit whatever batteries you choose to use in the plane. Decide how you want to place the batteries (stacked or end to end) and then determine where they need to be to balance the plane. Cut the foam teeth as needed but cut them so that when the batteries are in, they are quite snug and you have to push them down between the teeth and compress the teeth a bit. This helps to keep them in during flight. Thus, retaining straps and/or velcro don't need to be too complicated.
PS, I'd stack them so they make the lowest height stack - more stable and less likely to move about. Place a small piece of shelf liner between the 2 batteries for more friction.

[disasterman]

Thanks quitcherbitchen and xviper! Really appreciate the help!

[quitcherbitchen]

Us Canadians like to help. LOL no problem. Just wish I had given you a picture.

[xviper]

Toss me another Pill, EH!

[disasterman]

I *think* I figured it out. The 3000mAh batteries are huge compared to the 2200's. I was trying to keep them out of the bombardier/navigator compartment, but no such luck, they took up the entire recessed area between the wing spar and nose. So I can either lay them flat and use the upper one to slide fore and aft to get the CoG right, or take my chances on standing them up on edge, putting some spacers in them, and letting them intrude into the space. I was doing all this because I wanted to put a scale interior in that compartment, with a bombardier, Norden bombsight, a balsa desk, & floor, a couple lightweight chairs, and some foam accessories. While most of that is lightweight, the bombardier and 3D printed bombsight are unknowns. So the best way I figured out to do it, was to set both batteries on edge, but with about a half inch gap between them, which I can leave as the "hell hole." I can disguise the starboard battery as a couple balsa ammo cases, and the desk top can cover most of the port side battery. Neither battery projects further than 3/4 inch into the area. I just don't have the room to do the angled bulkhead, (floor under the cockpit rudder pedals) or the upper bulkhead that conceals the instrument panel gauges and wiring on the real plane. It will have to just have a flat, one piece bulkhead and the covers. Beginning to wish I hadn't bought those big batteries...

[Drummrboy67]

Hello all,
Just got my Hobby King B17 1875 in this week. Arrived great. Looks beautiful for the price $345.00. I wanted green because my Grandfather was a top turret gunner in one but apparently these are in high demand and short supply so I feel lucky to get my hands on a silver 1875. Stickers did not come applied so I got to have that fun. I learned you use an iron to adhere those better. The motor mounts use a cylinder-shaft-set up with 2 keeper screws in each. One of these was missing out of each and not included in bag, so I have to hunt those tiny little @#$%^^&'s down. Soooooo all that said I'm super jazzed to have it. ONe question --- It reccomends 2 - 3S 11V 3000's wired in parallel (one for each side of the plane), but it comes with a "Y" XT60 to run one battery. I fly big planes 550 KV motors and such so I have 6S 22.2V 5000's and 6500s laying around - I could do the calculation, but I thought I would ask ----- Has anyone (would anyone) run a 6S 22.2V 5000maH in place of 2 - 3S 11V 3500maH's in parallel? Its a higher voltage and these are 20 A ESCs so my inclination is no but I thought I would maybe get the benefit of someone else's experience. Thanks in advance. RC life!

[quitcherbitchen]

No don't do it. 6S will kill the ESC and this plane should be flown slow like a proper bomber from World War II. I think the guys that use 4S because that is all they have might have an excuse, but the plane flies fine on 3S. 3S batteries are cheap now. Get 2 couple pairs of 2200-3000 and try it. Some people use a 5000 3S and it works fine, but I noticed the single 5500 battery I had got hot.

[F106DeltaDart]

No don't do it. 6S will kill the ESC and this plane should be flown slow like a proper bomber from World War II. I think the guys that use 4S because that is all they have might have an excuse, but the plane flies fine on 3S. 3S batteries are cheap now. Get 2 couple pairs of 2200-3000 and try it. Some people use a 5000 3S and it works fine, but I noticed the single 5500 battery I had got hot.

100%. 3S is the way to go for the stock config. However, if you choose to downsize the props to 8x6 3 blades (stock props are larger than scale size) I do recommend going with 4S. I’ve flown it that way for 10 years now and love it!

[Aros]

100%. 3S is the way to go for the stock config. However, if you choose to downsize the props to 8x6 3 blades (stock props are larger than scale size) I do recommend going with 4S. I’ve flown it that way for 10 years now and love it!

Same. Flew her on 4S with modified props for the years I had mine and was perfect.

[Drummrboy67]

Thanks so much for the heads up. I knew 11 to 22V prolly wasnt gonna jive. Don't need to be toasting them quality Chinese esc's. Totally agree with the scale flying thing. I'm sure my Dad doesn't want to see me snap rolling a pretty new B17. lmao. Don't even get me started. So I picked up two 3s 5000's on Amazon for $40. I was thinking of running both in parallel to increase flight time. My Spitfire heats up a 3s 3500 pretty good. might try one of these 5000's on it to see if that continues. Don't own any 4s yet might pick up a couple for the Spitty. Thanks again.

[borntoolate]

No don't do it. 6S will kill the ESC and this plane should be flown slow like a proper bomber from World War II. I think the guys that use 4S because that is all they have might have an excuse, but the plane flies fine on 3S. 3S batteries are cheap now. Get 2 couple pairs of 2200-3000 and try it. Some people use a 5000 3S and it works fine, but I noticed the single 5500 battery I had got hot.

.
3S is more than enough to fly the B-17 scale-like. I have flown om 4S and it really is too much power. You do not need 4 S or more.


Bob

[Aros]

One thing I hated was the stock props were unbelievably flimsy. Under load I have no idea what kind of performance drop they were providing. I don’t disparage anyone who flies her stock on 3S but I found for my personal taste to switch out the props for something more robust, plop a 4S in and have fun. I still flew her nice and scale but it was always nice to know I had the added horsepower if I ever needed it.