Finally maidened her and got a video. It flies just as I remembered. Very stable, predictable, plenty of power, graceful in the air. I also had the Hobby King version, which has retracts, flaps and a slightly bigger wingspan. By comparison, the Dynam version is leaps and bounds ahead of the HK one, which was under powered, needed upgraded motors, stalled easily when taking off if insufficient power was used at time of lift off and stalled easily in banked turns for the same reason. The HK one had to be flown at high throttle most of the time and was a bit of a "butt clencher". This Dynam is a joy to fly, relaxing and laid back. And finally, the Dynam is a bargain for its price.
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Nice job xviper2, looks like a great flyer. Funny, I just called my fly'n buddy today to tell him about the deal on the FW P51 Iron Ass and he said he didn't see that but he ordered the Dynam C47 earlier in the week and it just arrived.......which means I get to fly her too :D.
SteveAMA 95495
Freewing P-51D Iron Ass
Freewing F-86 80MMComment
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It's one of those understated models that most people won't even give a second look. Let us know what you think of it.Comment
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Nice video! I'm sure glad to hear it flies so well. I'm waiting on Calle graphics to finish mine. DocComment
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xviper2...I had to add 43g/1.5 oz. to the nose of my Dynam C-47 to make it balance at 62mm aft of the L.E. This is with a 3s 2200 45c battery. I did paint it silver and added 2 coats of Varathane, however I changed to Dubro low bounce wheels which are much heavier than the stock wheels, and foreward of the C.G. So... did you have to add weight to yours? DocComment
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Doc ................. No, I didn't have to add any weight. However, I did carve out a bit of foam so I could move the battery as far forward as I could. I went as close as I dared to the canopy magnet without jeopardizing the integrity of that structure. This worked to balance the plane perfectly. I'm using a similar battery to yours, everything stock.Comment
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Wow!... I guess Varathane weighs a lot more than I thought! A 4s 2200 almost balances it, but I'm afraid of burning something out with that size battery. DocComment
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Oh, I should have mentioned that I brushed a layer of Mod Podge on mine for protection. I think it's not nearly as heavy as Varathane. I, too, was thinking about 4s. I like my planes to have some extra grunt in reserve. Like yourself, I don't think the stock motors can take it - not enough guts in them. The ESCs "might" be able to take it as the power is split between 2 of them. We'd need the motor from the Dynam Seawind or Flyzone Seawind, which I have experience with using 4s on without any issue for some time now. Both motors seem similar. The Dynam uses a 40A and the Flyzone, a 30A. Of course, a different prop adapter would be required. However, size and weight of the motors could create a balance problem. Mind you, the motors are mounted quite far forward of the CG, that a 4 cell may need to be shoved much further back. If I ever get bored with the stock performance, I'll order up a couple of Dynam motors and give it a whirl.Comment
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Doc, why not go ahead and use the bigger battery and just set your flight timer to whatever time you fell is safe to not overheat the motors. Those bigger batteries will last longer (not stressed) and charge faster since you're not taking them down as low. I just hate adding unusable weight.Originally posted by doctormike View Post
Steve
AMA 95495
Freewing P-51D Iron Ass
Freewing F-86 80MMComment
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I haven't tested the DC-3/C-47 ESCs or motors at 4S. But i don't expect that to be a good idea.
Larger capacity 3S would be fine though.
the ESCs are labeled for 2S to 6S, 30 Amp, so they should handle it.
The motors are a size I've never pushed past 3S.FF gliders and rubber power since 1966, CL 1970-1990, RC since 1975.
current planes from 1/2 oz to 22 lbsComment
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I looked back at the stuff I put into my HobbyKing Canadair water bomber. It uses a similar 3-blade prop and the bomber weighs a similar amount. I have these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...836/8%201100KV
They should be closer in overall size to the stock C-47 motors and they've been yanking the bomber through the air on 4s for a couple of seasons now, using twin 40A ESCs out of a Dynam A-10. These motors are rated at 18A max, so the stock ESCs should be fine.
Oh, and the Canadair really hustles through the air.Comment
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Yeah, adding weight for balance just rubs me wrong! DocComment
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OK... xviper2...I did a static test using my infrared thermometer. Using throttle just as I would really flying, motor and ESC temps were the same after 5 minutes runtime for each battery. 70 degs. for motor...80 degs. for ESC. This was with an ambient temp. of 67. I used a 3s 2200 45c and a 4s 2500 50c battery. The increase in power with the 4s 2500 was almost scary! 160 degs. is considered acceptable... 180 degs. damaging. Even if the ambient temp. were 100 the motor would only reach 100. DocComment
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Doc, that's very interesting. Your experiment might suggest that the motors (and ESCs) are not suffering and the props can also take it. What was the method you used to determine that the power had increased? Physical pull? Now, I'm wondering what would happen if there were the occasional high throttle blast. I may have to throw in a 4s for a flight and see if I come back with the plane in a basket.Comment
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I could tell a definate difference in the pull and the sound. I certainly would not be doing aerobatics with the bigger battery. I think 3/4 throttle is the most I would ever use. Why don't you just secure it and do a static runup? You might have to move the battery back a bit if you fly it with a 4s 2500 since yours isn't tail heavy. I really appreciate this conversation. DocComment
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My build went pretty smoothly - had an issue with the magnets being incorrectly positioned, not allowing the cockpit hatch to fully close. Plane looks great, can't wait to take it up! Any advice for applying the invasion stripe wing decals nicely? Thanks!Comment
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You'll see a line that is on the outboard side of the engine. I would measure from that to keep the stripes perpendicular to the wing, and to keep them the same on both sides. I use a Sharpie marker for marking measurements. Just a couple of dots. Since I converted mine to a silver DC-3, I didn't apply the stripes. DocComment
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I messed up one side (on top only) when I installed the stripes. It got stuck before I could get a good hold on it and it wrinkled a bit. The other 3 went on perfect. Can't tell in the air. Somewhere on YouTube (I think it was MotionRC or Grayson Hobby channel), they go over how to apply large decals. You basically exposed only a small leading edge strip (maybe about an inch or 2) and get that stuck down real straight. Then peel the backing material off a couple inches at a time and "squeegie" that down. Continue till the whole decal is down.
On your first couple of flights, get the airspeed up before trying to lift off the ground. Low airspeed and ground effect can drop a wing (or suddenly lift one). Once you figure out how slow it can go, then you can do more scale like take offs.
My magnets were also reversed. I just yanked out the ones on the fuse and re-glued them the right way. Installed a tiny little tape tab for pulling the canopy off.Comment
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Thank you, I'll definitely look for that video. I think I may end up converting this to a silver DC-3 at some point - considering using flite metal or something along those lines so get that scale aluminum look. Seems time consuming, but the end product is beautiful. Thanks for the advice!Comment
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I picked up one of these today, what a great value at $149...of course I had to do a couple mods...
This is a cockpit latch for the new 1600mm P-38
Notched the cockpit nose for the latch
Changed out the stock wheels for the FMS P-51 wheels
Attached FilesComment
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