FMS 1400mm T-28 V4 has arrived at Motion RC

[Ron1950]

hey viper I put the back seat guy in mine also but I just use a exacto blade and cut out a square in the bottom of the cockpit...glued in the pilot on the square and reglued in the square...a lot cheeper lol

[seaviper]

Sweet. I will probably do the tailhook mod if I can figure out how to activate the hook for some hook-down passes.

[AkumaZeto]

Has anyone actual ran this on 6s like it says it can handle?

[Ron1950]

hey viper the hook from the t45 can be lowered but only by hand...if u figure out a system to lower it in flight let me know ,, although it would have to be a easy fix lol

[OV10]

Has anyone actual ran this on 6s like it says it can handle?

AZ..........curious as to where your getting that info from. The FMS specs on that 4258-650kV motor has a max rating of 18V. A 6S power system is gonna let the magic smoke roll

[AkumaZeto]

Yes in the original ad and description in the manual for the v4 says 4-6s Maybe they are just referring to the acceptable input range of the esc

[rifleman_btx]

Sweet. I will probably do the tailhook mod if I can figure out how to activate the hook for some hook-down passes.

Just hook it up to an open channel then have it run off a switch, or mix it to deploy with full flaps. That's what I would do
edit: oh and this hinge. https://www.motionrc.com/collections...-points-6-pack

[AkumaZeto]

Someone did a dive brake way back when

[rifleman_btx]

I'd love to do a p38 with the dive brakes on it, but man that would be alot of work and engineering

[NorthernFlyer]

Hi Guys,
Based on all of the fantastic reviews, I am looking to pick myself up FMS 1400mm T-28. My LHS can get me the V4 for about $340 US, but they are also selling the V3 on sale for $245 US (I am in Canada, which is why prices are slightly higher). My question is this: are the upgrades worth the difference in price or does the sale price make the V3 the better choice in this case? I would eventually upgrade the motor, at least.
I would appreciate the opinion of anyone that has owned and/or flown both.
Thanks.

[OV10]

Hi Guys,
Based on all of the fantastic reviews, I am looking to pick myself up FMS 1400mm T-28. My LHS can get me the V4 for about $340 US, but they are also selling the V3 on sale for $245 US (I am in Canada, which is why prices are slightly higher). My question is this: are the upgrades worth the difference in price or does the sale price make the V3 the better choice in this case? I would eventually upgrade the motor, at least.
I would appreciate the opinion of anyone that has owned and/or flown both.
Thanks.

Hello NF and welcome to the Squawk,
If your going to upgrade the motor on the v3 then you would be better off getting the v4 that already has the 650kV motor as well as oleo struts. Those two items to upgrade are $105 to the cost of a v3
Best regards,

[NorthernFlyer]

Thanks for your thoughts Charlie. That totally supports. my thinking. Looks like I'll be going with the V4.

[flyingiceberg]

Does anyone know why HH is showing this as being discontinued?

[Ron1950]

was hopeing the yellow t28 would have metal gear where old ones were plastic but have heard they are the same as old ones but painted silver hope they strengthened the alum pin in the nose gear have to wait and see

[AkumaZeto]

I use a fms004 retract for the nose. I doubt its been 86ed it is a rock solid bird.

[bobtheman]

Can someone tell me what measurement you are using for takeoff flaps and landing flaps? For the FMS 1400mm P-40

[OV10]

Can someone tell me what measurement you are using for takeoff flaps and landing flaps? For the FMS 1400mm P-40

You'll more likely to get a better specific response to your question if posted on the Official FMS 1400 P-40B thread

I'll provide you with some basic guidance regarding flap settings that I use with ALL my warbirds.
I don't use length measurements(mm or fractional). I use angular in degrees of movement.
Takeoff @ 15 degrees and Landing @ 30 degrees. This covers better than 90% of my fleet and works wonderfully.

[bobtheman]

You'll more likely to get a better specific response to your question if posted on the Official FMS 1400 P-40B thread

I'll provide you with some basic guidance regarding flap settings that I use with ALL my warbirds.
I don't use length measurements(mm or fractional). I use angular in degrees of movement.
Takeoff @ 15 degrees and Landing @ 30 degrees. This covers better than 90% of my fleet and works wonderfully.

Thanks for your input

[jsallade]

I have the yellow v4 T28 sitting in my shop... A fellow club member got it directly from a guy who recently purchased it and neither could get the retracts to work... period! They are down and locked but don't move, buzz, smoke or anything. I'm wondering if anyone has traced down the wiring and can help me figure out what is missing... So a few questions:

Do these retract units just need to see a servo signal to operate?? I.E. If you plugged the retract directly into a receiver and toggled the channel would they move??? Or is there a circuit somewhere buried in the plane that makes these work? I've tried to trace the wiring and it looks like (from the retracts in the wing inward...) It goes from the retract through a connector at the wing root (little connector box buried in there), back to the connector board via the white connectors and then to the receiver via the soldered on dual connections to the gear channel (for increased current capability I guess). Those connector board and boxes look like they are only glorified buss connectors... just traces and wires, right?

I tried powering the receiver with a 2S A123 (speed controller not even plugged into the receiver to avoid any possible motor activation) and all servos work fine but NONE of the retracts do anything. I then started tracing and got all the way out to the servo wire coming from the retract unit where it connects into the wing root box... Then I took that and put a Y into the gear channel of the receiver and plugged the two main retracts directly into that... toggle gear (channel moves on the display of the radio) and still no joy.

Basically, I think either EVERY retract is bad (I should my a lottery ticket) or there is circuitry somewhere I'm missing? Or maybe there should be!? I don't know what anyone could have done to cause this but I'm pretty sure no one is going to warranty it at this point either! :-)

[Alpha]

Try plugging one retract directly into the Aileron port. Hold full right rileron for two seconds, then full left for two full seconds. In one of those directions you should hear a "gzzt" sound as the retract motor arms, and in the other direction the retract should move. Also, most receiver's input voltage is 4.8v-6.0v maximum otherwise funny things can happen. If you're haven't let out the magic smoke yet, hopefully they're not toast. Apply correct voltage to the receiver and go from there. Post your results, good luck!