Nice finger four formation there! I didn't realize you had so many B-25s, Bob! I had only seen the one.
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Thank you, Alpha. I usually only bring one at a time to Apollo. It is a space thing! Last time I brought the camo "Poontang" to Apollo. I had to do the walk of shame after her nose gear failed to extend (again)! That actually prompted me to come up with an improved nose gear. I modded a P-39 gear and with Karltrek's oleo mod, the nose gear is now pretty much bullet-proof!Originally posted by Alpha.MotionRC View PostNice finger four formation there! I didn't realize you had so many B-25s, Bob! I had only seen the one.
Bob
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Sweet fleet of B-25s Bomber Bob :Cool:I went with a Lemon rx in mine as well, seemed like the only way anything would work without surgery. That looks like an eight or so?. I used a feather light 6 channel top post, and managed to cram it in behind the battery bay, but it's still like 6 people in a phone booth in there. Thanks for sharing this mod idea. Think I will try this to eliminate or greatly reduce likelihood of signal loss.
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I think about 99% of my planes have the Lemon 7ch w/stabilizer. After the loss of my first Ruptured Duck (AR8000 receiver) I swapped all out in favor of Lemons. So far they have not given me any issues at all. The receiver bay.hatch mod is easy and frees up so much room.Originally posted by Westsider View PostSweet fleet of B-25s Bomber Bob :Cool:I went with a Lemon rx in mine as well, seemed like the only way anything would work without surgery. That looks like an eight or so?. I used a feather light 6 channel top post, and managed to cram it in behind the battery bay, but it's still like 6 people in a phone booth in there. Thanks for sharing this mod idea. Think I will try this to eliminate or greatly reduce likelihood of signal loss.
Bob
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I installed flaps on two of my B-25s. They do help slow her down on landings. I kind of like the sound my B-25s make. It is not super loud, but on a fast low pass, you can just feel the power.Originally posted by AZFlyer View PostI love my FMS B-25, just wish it had flaps to be more scale and to help with a nice high alpha landing.
And is it me, or is that plane too quiet? I can hardly hear it on full power. Thought a twin would have more mojo (sound wise) in the air......thoughts?
Bob
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I was wondering about their stabilizer system, sounds like they did a good job with those too. I been using their 10ch for my FPV planes. Never had an issue with them. I've used the small 6 ch in my line of sight planes also no issues at all. I'm super impressed with their reliability for the price.Originally posted by borntoolate View Post
I think about 99% of my planes have the Lemon 7ch w/stabilizer. After the loss of my first Ruptured Duck (AR8000 receiver) I swapped all out in favor of Lemons. So far they have not given me any issues at all. The receiver bay.hatch mod is easy and frees up so much room.
Bob
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I agree. For $18.90, you get a 7ch receiver with stabilizer option. I do have some 10 channels too. I will use one in the B-17 since I am adding a working bomb bay. I may need a channel for the doors and maybe one to toggle the bombs.Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
I was wondering about their stabilizer system, sounds like they did a good job with those too. I been using their 10ch for my FPV planes. Never had an issue with them. I've used the small 6 ch in my line of sight planes also no issues at all. I'm super impressed with their reliability for the price.
Bob
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Two of my B-25s have working bomb bays. It is fun to drop bombs on targets. Sometimes we load a large amount of poppers in the bay and drop them on the asphalt runway.Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostAbsolutely, a door with a separate bomb drop would be awesome!
Here is a picture of the Ruptured Duck dropping it's first bombs. The other picture is of my three B-25s. Taken before the loss of the Duck and the addition of the PBJ and new Duck.
2 of these 3 have working bomb bays.
Bob
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================================================== =================================Originally posted by borntoolate View Post
Again, Bob and others, Thanks for the ideas....
Bob, question. The tiny magnets are a great idea and I note that you used them on both top and bottom. Those are really strong when you use them together and that hatch will never fly off. But, how do you "glue/tape. . ??" them down so that they don't tear out when removing the hatch..?? Most installations I have seen is one magnet and one small iron plate. Holding power a lot less, but, they stay in place when taken apart. . .
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I just"drill" a magnet size hole in both surfaces and, after wiping the magnets off with de-natured alcohol, epoxy them in place. Make sure that you put them in so they do not repel the other magnets! Been there, done that!Originally posted by Skywagon View Post
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Again, Bob and others, Thanks for the ideas....
Bob, question. The tiny magnets are a great idea and I note that you used them on both top and bottom. Those are really strong when you use them together and that hatch will never fly off. But, how do you "glue/tape. . ??" them down so that they don't tear out when removing the hatch..?? Most installations I have seen is one magnet and one small iron plate. Holding power a lot less, but, they stay in place when taken apart. . .
It is very strong with 2 magnets. It will never come off on it's own.
Bob
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FMS B-25 Suggestions . . .
Thanks for the greetings and suggestions on Rx and "Rats nest of wiring" placement ideas.
My "2nd" B-25 kit was delivered and I have cut up some of #1 to learn about hidden fuselage spaces that you guys have used.
I want to make the nest of cables disappear and still keep the Rx very visable when getting it powered up for a flight.
One of the ideas from Bob, was to cut a hatch in the bottom of the fuselage. He suggested installing the receiver there. That location would probably be best for Rx reception but, not so handy when getting it ready for a flight as one should monitor the Rx LED flashes when its seeking out the Tx signal.
I am thinking that the bottom hatch would be a great location, it is large and open, to drag back excess cables from the forward wing section toward the tail. Using a wire hook, one could carefully snag each long cable and drag it back as far as it will practically go. Then the forward hatch area would be relatively free of excess wiring and the receiver could be mounted forward where it could be viewed with the battery hatch removed. Other than the usual attachment of servo cables it should be relatively sanitary. Suggestions . . . ??
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Originally posted by Skywagon View PostFMS B-25 Suggestions . . .
Thanks for the greetings and suggestions on Rx and "Rats nest of wiring" placement ideas.
My "2nd" B-25 kit was delivered and I have cut up some of #1 to learn about hidden fuselage spaces that you guys have used.
I want to make the nest of cables disappear and still keep the Rx very visable when getting it powered up for a flight.
One of the ideas from Bob, was to cut a hatch in the bottom of the fuselage. He suggested installing the receiver there. That location would probably be best for Rx reception but, not so handy when getting it ready for a flight as one should monitor the Rx LED flashes when its seeking out the Tx signal.
I am thinking that the bottom hatch would be a great location, it is large and open, to drag back excess cables from the forward wing section toward the tail. Using a wire hook, one could carefully snag each long cable and drag it back as far as it will practically go. Then the forward hatch area would be relatively free of excess wiring and the receiver could be mounted forward where it could be viewed with the battery hatch removed. Other than the usual attachment of servo cables it should be relatively sanitary. Suggestions . . . ??
I think you may have combined some of the suggestions. I suggested the top hatch area for the receiver bay. This allows you to pull all of the wires into the tunnel behind the cockpit. The hatch allows great access to the receiver for viewing and making changes. The only wire in the battery bay should be your esc power lead. I fly my planes with a separate BEC battery. I use a 2S 500mah. This battery also will fit in the tunnel with all of the wires - out of sight and out of the way.
I believe Alpha suggested putting the receiver in the bottom of the fuselage. I have not done that method, so I am unable to have an opinion there.
I would suggest that if you do "snag and drag" wires to pull them into the bottom of the fuselage (or anywhere for that matter) you be very careful to not accidentally disconnect and connectors.
I have seen that happen. You don't realize it on the ground, but if the connectors are loosened by dragging, it will become painfully apparent in the air.
I have seen it happen. I make it a practice to tape all of my servo connections (connector to connector). A little electrical tape is very cheap insurance.
Bob
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Bob, Thanks for the follow-up details. . .
The suggestion about placing the Rx in a "top" hatch brings up a question.
In the FMS model I have, there is no tunnel on the topside. I assume that you carved one out. When I cut into my damaged B-25, I found two things: the hatch cut has to been started a specific distance behind the top gun turret. If one cuts it in a bit too forward, the foam is almost solid to the next layer, and, there is no tunnel from that new hatch to the forward factory hatch.
Do you use an Rx with a satellite...? I am thinking on the new model I would do that however, placement locations in this model seem very limited for a separate location for the satellite. I plan to use your advice about "Taping" the connections. .
Dave. .
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Skywagon....I lost Panchito V1.0 in a go-around stall and had to rebuild most of the plane. After wrapping much of the plane in HVAC foil tape to give it a metal finish look,I was concerned about keeping the Rx antenna inside the metal wrapped fuse thinking signal may be compromised. I installed my Orange 7ch in the top turret with the antenna exiting the turret through one of the two gun ports. You can visually confirm Tx/Rx bind and it can only be seen on the ground close up. This has worked flawlessly since rebuild two years ago.
BTW...borntoolate guided my flap install....he's an excellent resource.GP Sport Zero, scratch built MA Sky Skimmer, VQ SBD, Eflite Pulse XT & RV-9, FW Stinger 64, Hanger 9 Saratoga, GP P6-E Hawk, FMS Stuka & B-25, Lanyu Do335, PZ Albatros, Eflite Hurricane 25e, Airfield F4-U, Freewing P-51D, Dynam Tempest, Bf-110 & 182, GWS Mustang & Formosa, FZ Switch, Eflite L-4, RocHobby Critical Mass, Alien Aircraft Gadget, RCM&E scratch built CanDoo, Dynaflite Piece O’Cake, HK Ventus, FZ Beaver, Avios Sea Fury, Uravitch 52" OV-10, Herr Engineering J-3
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