The rear mount actually fits the OD great with the gasket, but to do this the way id like it iI will have to desolder these beautiful solder joints castle made and turn the cable around. This is why I brought a 100 watt Leponitt soldering iron. I need a rheostat for it so I can actually control the temp. Ultimately I'm going to have Steve do a 6 wire 60,000 rpm 2030 and run dual XLX2's but for now we will see how this goes. If you have a setup that can deliver the amps this could pull I don't see why >100 mph is easily there if the hull is tuned propped correctly for it. . The insane can run >90 fairly easily.
Hi Guys & Gals...
I have everything mocked up now with the motor mounted far forward and low as feasible with a slight angle on the motor. Don't ask me what it is but its somewhere between zero and 4 degrees I guess. I took some measurements to be sure on my shaft and stuffing box length for Brent . Everything looks good. Its a nice gradual bend the od of the brass tube that will thread through the Tbar is 5/16 so the 9/32 should slide inside it with no issue its slightly greater than .28125 (9/32) . What I really wish I could do is run a straight shaft to an articulated joint at the nose of the slinger so I can add power trim to the stinger. The other thing I thought about is a square drive die'd shaft at the nose of the stinger on bearings in the stinger and a square 1/4 inch flex squared that has the stuffing box floating right at the nose of the strut. I have plans for building the articulated joints that can stand up but its a process. I think ill leave the strut set at zero for now with the wire and static trim tabs and work on very small middle tab that sits butted just below the stinger than can be controlled with a servo Almost like a power trimmed square bottom stinger .I have a 10 PX Futaba fast system with an additional 6 axis gyro that is capable of leveling the boat at all times as long as the tab has enough trimming effect. For sun I added some photos of a few of the high pitched props Jim Scheafer sent over for me to try. Not necessarily on this boat. @ 60,000 ! actually expect a mild pretty small prop with a 1.5 or so aspect ratio. maybe something as small as a 3 blade x440 or ABC 1515. I'm looking for over 100 mph.
The wire system from Brent feature a .125 stainless wire on a 1/4 in prop shaft ground to 3/16 for the props. The liner is an anodized aluminum tube with evenly space lead Teflon bearings through its length. Like I said I'm starting here. There is no telling where I will finish because i'd really like a straight shaft setup on the power trim stinger.
I have my own tricks the CD's will love.
@ Ralph tell Christian we bout to get wet & no swimming pools are allowed... 👀
Hi
The transom drill locations are pre marked from insane, so I ordered the Synergy trim tabs from Insane. I was going the buy the windshield but whoever applied it at insane add has a degree in applying decals to curved surfaces. I imagined a bubbly mess for 15 dollars on my part so since the hull is black Im going to just lay the widow frame in 3m chrome or satin 3m pinstriping trim That I can do...
And ironically their link to the rule book pdf falls directly on this page when I downloaded it. No Lie.
That said if Im ever at an event and see the corvus mono I will protest it as illegal and it will be measured. Funny thing is the owner has said now personally to me he has no plans to bring it back to the USA so basically the record was stolen as far as I'm concerned and we will never be able to verify the legality of that hull. TG's affiliation with Lehner is what makes it possible and I stand on that. 🤨 When u ask was it measured you get a yes when u ask what was the measurement or can you get a photo of it you get everything but that. For it to be measure it would have to be challenged . If it was challenged who challenged it? They would certainly know the measurement if it was challenged.
Only a fan of it would see this boat and its transom at an American SAW event to take a record and not challenge it
I like speed and think its a cool boat too but there's no way in hell what is in this photo is legal. I truly don't need a ruler to eyeball the extreme concavity on this hull. Do you see the rules????? Then the way the freeboard blends into it on each side of the boat is just like a horizontal stabilizer aka a wing on the mono. None of that is in the water when in runs and It the tips turn down and touches the at all while a section in between there and the chine is not then it is also a cathedral hull which is also illegal.
In between the motor mount rear cross member and the first rib is about 68mm so we went with the 56x65 water cooling jacket. I went with the anodized black because silver is so common and I want to look at something a lill different under the hood. I'm actually considering purchasing an anodization set up. Anodized hardware on the black hull would be different.
👀Für das abonnierte Mitglied in Deutschland ist hier diese Adresse.👀
I need to get the new lathe up and running so I can stop purchasing things like this. It may make sense to make a cooling jacket from high temperature epoxy an CF. that would be much lighter. You can improve the P/W ration be decreasing the boats weight which, with >10000 mah cells, will be heavier than any gas boat or nitro setup in the same hull.
I will definitely bring in more water than just the rudder pickup. I have a Insane prop blast mount but hate how that looks hanging off the ass of the mono. I think I'll do a dual transom mount on the left side of the boat and a double pickup rudder blade. Hopefully that will help counteract the rudder to the right that will be shortened at some point. The turn fin will also have to be sharpened quite a bit or might be replace with a knife grinded fin made of thin spring steel. Will cut you no doubt. This is not a toy.
Here is some of the late JA's still spring turn fins. This is real boat hardware. Thin sharp and strong!
What im considering is a tec cooler on the block to cool the incoming water then circulate it.
@ Ralph heres a pump run by the TX that uses a 28x60mm motor and here is the flow. I haven't calculated it but I dont think that will dissipate the kind of heat generated in a SAW run but it may stabilize things if the boat is stopped or just sitting in the water after a run. To be fair real calculations need to be made. Ill know more after I consult with Ferrotec No matter to use it in conjunction with a prop blast or a hull mounted water pickup will need a check valve inline somewhere to make it work correctly as a supplemental active cooling water source .
Here are the spec on the pump
Voltage from 3 to 6 volts
- Voltage: 3 V Pumping flow: 1.1L / one minute Pumping flow: 300ml / one minute
- Voltage: 6 V Pumping flow: 1.8L / one minute Pumping flow: 600ml / one minute
- Pump & motor length: 60mm
- Pump & motor length including the tubing fittings: 72mm
- Diameter: 28mm
- Wire length: 200mm
- Weight: 72 grams
Is it worth its weight in wattage dissipation? calculations are needed. And again Christian is going to integrate a small GDPDP enuf to fit inside the outrunner and flow enuf of what from what source in the plane? It would have to be closed loop with an effective heat exchanger. A radiator with a fan so to speak. id like to see the entirfe concept laid out not just the motor cross section. But anyhow you see what you have here in flow and the size of the pump. Is it feasible in a 20kW plane pulling over a half a horse in waste..?
I have a gear driven pump, that will probably flow alot more, in hand that uses a 700 sized dc motor so you know the size and weight possibilities. Now what I need since it was salvaged is a graduated cylinder to see what it flows and make determinations if is worth the time based on its additional weight and power draw. Its a crap shoot because a TEC cooler will draw power as well. The other thing is reducing through plumbing drag with reduction of barbed fittings etc. If you use ferruled fitting you can increase the positive flow. Is that possible with a soft flexible line? I don't think so. To remove the shoulder with a barbed fitting a thick hard walled tubing needs to be reamed to the depth and butt up with the tubing's ID that is the same as the orifice of the barb. That eliminates the shoulder and you get no turbulence or eddies in the flow in those area. The idea is always to get more water in and out of the boat.
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