The anodized aluminum pre curved logs,.125 wire, alignment piece and lead Teflon's arrived yesterday from Brent Byers. He triple protects it in shipping with the shafts and logs in a tube then in a pvc pipe then in the padded cardboard box. Very smart because and UPS and FEDEX will damage your items. No lie.
Everything inserts into one another and butts flush end to end internally The brass insert allows me to use the alignment dowel for the stuffing box and stingers log but still the prop dog 1/4 inch from the end of the strut. The shaft was already cut to butt against the motor shaft and the Teflon bearing was sunk in the stingers log to the depth of the alignment dowel .
To support the last part of the log before the motor . ill sit it back 3 or 4 inches from the logs end.. Ill probably draw in broken edges etc. But this is just a rough rendering.
Scratch that. I want continuity in the boat especially if I decide to anodize everything.so I spent the 20 or so dollars for another insane T-bar in T6. l'll add and oil log to the stuffing box and use light weight oil before a run. No grease. That will finalize the .125 wire drive installation. All will be left is to add battery trays and the radio box and we can pull out from the pool in bayern.🤔.... I've had alot to have to calibrate with the 10PX. Telemetry with the XLX2, GPS, and a six axis gyro all had to be configured. Thats an entirely different thread. The battery rules are different between the two bodies so ill have to look deeper into it. NAMBA has a mah maximum allowed while the IMPBA doesn't.
Hi Ralph
Tell Christian the next time he comes to Florida to please bring his boats. I'll bring mine. Ill be down there around august to pick up a real boat as well. In a basic sense the insane is close to finished . It needs a radio box and battery tray and we out! I still plan a few other "gimmicks". I have a twin cat with two hall sensed 45x101's that turn 90 bands.... (90,000) rpm I see the 6 turn 2260;s with ABC 2118's carry the german cats near 200 mph.
2118 ABC Ralph . Thats 2.1 inch diameter propellor with an aspect ratio of 1.8.. With the surface piercing boat prop you also have to look at the rake angle and BAR ( blade area ratio) options to go along with your pitches.The aspect ratios here are 2.3 and 2.4 the rake angle is 22 degrees the BAR is 38%
I hope you understand the numbering system for the ABC propellers
Since the lead Teflon are not loaded to the very end of the stuffing box I 3dp a nose piece with a 25.4 mm brass bushing insert to align the shaft in the stuffing box at the exit right into the collet. Ill support the last section stuffing box about 4 inches before the motor with the other tbar and lock it there. When I pull the shaft the stuffing box is going to stay perfectly aligned with the motor collet.You see how I sleeved the Anodized aluminum stuffing box with brass tubing to fit snugly and centered in the T-bars bore. You see that the Insane T-bar also gives you some lateral adjustment, which I didn't end up needing coz I'm good..
The extremal cooling jacket arrived. It is 63 grams. I also made my own version of a Zerk fitting from k&s brass tubing to lubricate the shaft with light oil. Its .125 inches and feeds a .125 hole in the stuffing box. I started on a radio box because I'm much quicker with the table saw CA birch ply and epoxy, weight wise it will make no different and wood is really easy to work with if I want to mount other improvised tidbits to it. Switches for lights etc. So that's next. I'm not waiting a day to print the box and I'm not paying 50.00 dollar for one because we've been doing them this way for 30 years and it wont hurt anything. I'm simply not going to 3dp everything that goes in the boat. Ill probably print out the servo tray that will fit inside the birch box.
The cooling jacketi is a beautiful black anodized edition and fits perfectly between the motor mount and around the finned section of the external case..
I have two of these water outlets for two coolant lines. One for the motor and one for the ESC and will add more from there .I'd like duals
for both components.
Drive line is in now with the additional tbar and it is smooth as silk. 🙈🙉🙊
The bend is slight. The stinger sits about 1/4 inch above the V.. There is no endplay with the lead Teflon bearings but I still may load a new stinger barrel with ball bearings and test if it indeed gains a few rpm. It is a very solidly setup 1/8 inch drive system. I'm happy with it.
Didn't want to do this. It looks really nice but printing to this quality takes too long. I'm Printing the radio box in 3 or 4 interlocking pieces. 6 hours to print just this .. So I estimate roughly a day to print all the pieces and assemble. The bottom is shouldered and will snap into place and be bonded with CA which adheres exceptionally to PLA. Should come out clean if I take my time.
Im producing these prints on a 300.00 3dp I've tuned a bit. Here is the proof its just a basic ender 3 pro . Its not self leveling enclosed or anything. The filament is fresh out the package tho...
Im drawing in fusion and using the basic Creality slicer This is high temp PLA Proto pasta HTP31710-BLK opaque black that can be annealed for even more strength.
The LiFe receiver battery is underneath the servo tray. The receiver and GPS sit in a removable pocket so you can load and unload the receiver battery. XLX2 has a BEC but I don't know if ill use it. The gyro will mount remotely at the cg. The radio box recess fits a 2mm thick glass with 5mm radiused corners. Its ordered and should drop right in. The brand new never used 10px screen was accidentally cracked. 5 weeks turnaround time at Futaba ( Huntsville AL.) No choice.... touch screen lost functionality. When I get it back I bet Ill have to reconfigure everything.
They hardware is really good stuff but it comes in rough with no broken edges or fasteners . So I've done that and added the fasteners. I will polish all the hardware out. Seems like no one does that any more but we've always polished the hardware to a mirror finish and sharpened the turn fin and rudder without fail. I started the process with wet/dry 220 to clean up all the tooling marks. Im not complaining because the struts were not expensive nor the shipping from Sweden. It took 2 weeks to get here I suppose.
Well we didnt always polish... we... Kenneth Stone, Curtis Samuel and I did some experimenting with glass beading the entire prop 30 years ago. Kenny did them for us. Now in 2024 thinking back id glass bead the suction side and polish the thrust side. The other thing you can do is prep the backside of the prop in a way to induce leading edge cavitation with a chamfered edge. I met Curtis and Kenny and became also a dedicated buyer of Andy Brown in 1990! My first rigger was a mongoose with a picco 67. I just sold that motor about 6 years ago for over 400.00 damn nice one with the metal carb. Kenny blueprinted it.
Sorry if I ramble on I'm just thinking to myself aloud.
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